What is the consensus on the dimensions of the Wild Burro design? I intend to try this with some Visaton B200 I recently acquired, and am connected to a guy I may be able to talk out of two pieces of ply that are 17-3/4" wide, one 96" another 84" long. Can't quite meet the dimensions listed. So if I buy a sheet, is the suggested size the best to use? And if the ply my friend has works, what would you suggest the cut sizes be? Thanks. Sorry to bring up a dead thread, but I felt I should ask this stuff here in case someone else is wondering the same 
My brain is too fried to even add right now, but a few inches here or there won't make much of a difference. Placement will matter more. These baffle dimensions aren't mine, and I haven't experimented much. They came about before the Betsy existed, and back in those days, the B200 was about the only OB option (well, non-vintage).
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Hi Paul,
Tell us why your brain is so tired -- are you working on an interesting audio project?
Mortron, the lower the driver, the better the bass. So yes, the driver is indeed low (I found I needed to shelve down the midrange and treble down substantially in order to get a nice response). However, the B200's beam the treble, so the urge to be on axis with them will come at a price. It's ultimately better to be off axis, although if you EQ properly, you can be on axis. It did annoy me a bit to have them so low, despite the objective benefits.
P.S. I always wanted to add that the Betsy's did work so much more easily than the B200's, which gave glimmers of greatness but always needed a couple more tweaks, except on solo cello and other acoustic instruments. Both drivers worked well in the big baffle but bass does roll off as one would expect.
Tell us why your brain is so tired -- are you working on an interesting audio project?
Mortron, the lower the driver, the better the bass. So yes, the driver is indeed low (I found I needed to shelve down the midrange and treble down substantially in order to get a nice response). However, the B200's beam the treble, so the urge to be on axis with them will come at a price. It's ultimately better to be off axis, although if you EQ properly, you can be on axis. It did annoy me a bit to have them so low, despite the objective benefits.
P.S. I always wanted to add that the Betsy's did work so much more easily than the B200's, which gave glimmers of greatness but always needed a couple more tweaks, except on solo cello and other acoustic instruments. Both drivers worked well in the big baffle but bass does roll off as one would expect.
Driver height is one of the problems with single driver open baffles. Remember that the distance to the nearest edge determines where dipole cancellation starts. So, if you move the driver up, you get less bass. That effect could be mitigated to some degree with a shelf. But, no matter how you go about it, unless you can tolerate something enormous, your driver will not be near ear level. It is one of those many things that changes when you add woofers.
Law School. Law school makes my brain hurt. One more day until break. Then it'll be time to start studying for finals.
Paul
Law School. Law school makes my brain hurt. One more day until break. Then it'll be time to start studying for finals.
Paul
You may be able get away with a narrow front.
My wife found 12" wide but 5' tall front baffle tolerable if wood is pretty enough (sanded baltic birch). If I was to remake it, I'd stay with 12" wide front baffle but be 6' tall with 24" deep wings (or 19" minimum). Don't forget to duct tape the back side of the hinge.
You can sweep the wings back to almost parallel. I prefered a foam box around the backside of the driver's magnet. My wife prefered none.
The Feq hump makes bass so much more enjoyable than listening to 6" driver on a 12" wide baffle without baffle step.
And the nice qts of the betsy driver is always a help when running open baffle.
Here is response of 6' tall with a 15" an15 on narrow front baffle with 19.7" wings (I think).
It went faily flat to 100hz when snugged against the wall.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/216802-melon-heads-state-dumb-open-baffle-design.html
Norman
My wife found 12" wide but 5' tall front baffle tolerable if wood is pretty enough (sanded baltic birch). If I was to remake it, I'd stay with 12" wide front baffle but be 6' tall with 24" deep wings (or 19" minimum). Don't forget to duct tape the back side of the hinge.
You can sweep the wings back to almost parallel. I prefered a foam box around the backside of the driver's magnet. My wife prefered none.
The Feq hump makes bass so much more enjoyable than listening to 6" driver on a 12" wide baffle without baffle step.
And the nice qts of the betsy driver is always a help when running open baffle.
Here is response of 6' tall with a 15" an15 on narrow front baffle with 19.7" wings (I think).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It went faily flat to 100hz when snugged against the wall.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/216802-melon-heads-state-dumb-open-baffle-design.html
Norman
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