Newbie looking for advice and encouragement

[djn04]

Hello all.

I'm new here and wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to this site in the short time I've been here I've learned a lot and I'm encouraged by other first timers.

I have a some questions and I'm seeking some advice.

This will be my first build and I've decided on the Audio Physics Tempo clone on the Humblehomemadehifi site. My reasons for choosing this project are twofold. One it looks relatively simple for a first time project, and two the aesthetics pass the SAF test.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Tempo.html

My questions are does anyone have any experience with this setup? Is the quality similar to what I would get from another similar floorstander of the same size and price? Will it be relatively easy for a first timer? Are they other projects with a similar aesthetic that you would recommend.

Thanks Again.

 

[sdclc126]

I don't see this as an overly difficult project compared to other two-way designs. The woofer is available from PartsExpress; the tweeter is a current model but I'm not sure about a retailer - the model at Madisound doesn't appear to be the same one.

In any event, the biggest challenge I see to building this speaker is the angled cabinet, but that all depends on the resources you have available - if you can cut the pieces yourself or will need to have someone do it for you.

I have no direct experience with this design but I certainly trust tony's knowledge and the drivers are definitely good ones. You don't say what your budget limit is, but there are a lot of very good designs out there that are probably in the same price ballpark as this one, some maybe a little bit higher -

I would suggest you look at the designs at www.zaphaudio.com and at Jay_WJ's site, http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/ You really can't go wrong with anything you choose here - the problem is choosing!

 

[cuibono]

I say go for it - I doubt you'll have any regrets. I agree, the most time consuming part will be the cabinets. It looks like Tony used MDF, and then veneered it - which gives the advantage of being more forgiving when cutting/building, and ultimately a more robust cabinet, but the added step of veneering isn't particularly easy, I think. But you will end up with a very nice looking (and great sounding) pair of loudspeakers. I recently did a couple pairs of veneered floorstanding speakers, and they look great!

 

[djn04]

thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to go it. The SAF factor requires me to build a narrow sloped baffle floorstander. Which I'm cool with because I really like the look of it.

I guess I'll email madisound about the tweeter and the woofer is out of stock as well.

 

[sploo]

This wouldn't be the easiest project to start with, due to the angled cuts required. However, if you've got a tablesaw (or access to someone with one) then it should be quite possible to do with good planning.

Whilst you obviously want the best fit of panels possible, remember that if you're painting or veneering the unit, then you can get away with using filler to patch up any joins that don't quite fit.

Take your time, be pleased with the results (only you will know of your mistakes, unless something is glaring).

Oh, and be prepared to look at them in a couple of years time and think, "D*mn that's poor, I could do so much better now!"

 

[djn04]

Santa should be bringing me a table saw. the challenge of the angle cuts is part of what excites me about the project. I'm going to take my time and try to make something I'll be proud of.

 

[Bill Fuss]

Looks like a great first time project if the drivers are available. Mdf is very forgiving and paper backed veneer is relatively simple to use. Just take your time and use common sense, there's plenty of help on this forum.

Bill

 

[djn04]

Thanks everybody.

So I got an email from madisound and the Seas 27TFF-H831 has been discontinued. He recommended the H881 and said they have the same VC and the only difference is the rear chamber.

http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=80&Itemid=104

http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=81&Itemid=105

If I were to substitute the tweeters would I need to rework the crossover? Being my first set I would prefer to stick with a tried and true design.

Also no word on when the Vifa PL18W0-09-08 will be back in stock.

Maybe I should just make these.
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=25031

 

[sdclc126]

I was afraid you might run into that problem - have you seen this design?

http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZRT.html

If you can afford it (not sure if you were serious about the HTGuide link) then you won't be dissapointed; Madisound has the kit, which makes the whole thing easier:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35_425&products_id=8362

If it's beyond your budget afterall, then I would recommend Jay_WJ's Usher 8945P + SEAS 27TBFC/G.

 

[djn04]

I have looked at the ZRT the price is a little daunting and it doesn't work with my SAF restrictions.

I currently have a pair of B&W DM602 S2's on stands and I get constant complaints about who they look. My dad has a pair of Sonus Faber Cremonas and she said those look good. So as this point I'm limited to a pair of narrow sloped baffle floorstanders or they won't find a home in my house. That's why I was looking at the Tempos and any other speakers that would fit the bill.

I would really like to make the cabinets from the HTGuide post and figure out the drivers latter but that's probably not the best plan.

 

[sdclc126]

You can really make the cabs any way you want as long as the internal volume for the woofer is appropriate. Narrower width than an established design calls for can be compensated for in the crossover. And you can slope the baffle for any design too - it just aligns the drivers so just about anything can benefit from it.

 

[djn04]

You can really make the cabs any way you want as long as the internal volume for the woofer is appropriate. Narrower width than an established design calls for can be compensated for in the crossover. And you can slope the baffle for any design too - it just aligns the drivers so just about anything can benefit from it.

Ok. I think I'll make a sloped cab with the internal volume of the ZRT design and with the same width called for. I'll do an 8 degree slope as called for in the HTguide post.

I'll probably change my mind by tomorrow but that's my plan for today.

 

[sdclc126]

I'll probably change my mind by tomorrow but that's my plan for today.

 

[sploo]

Santa should be bringing me a table saw. the challenge of the angle cuts is part of what excites me about the project. I'm going to take my time and try to make something I'll be proud of.

Great news.

Now, some non-audio words of advice - table saws are deadly - you can lose all your fingers in a split second (and I really mean that - I've seen it happen).

Take your time, and use a push stick to move wood across the surface. Always make sure you have a good comfortable stance when using the machine, so that you're never leaning over it, or risking being out of balance. Plan the cuts you're going to do - if it doesn't feel right, don't do it.

Also, if you're cutting MDF, make sure you have an MDF rated face mask (for both the dust and the vapour) as it's nasty stuff when cutting.

Don't get smart - experience is no substitute for care. Case in point - dumb*ss here has just lost the end of his thumb on a router table doing something he shouldn't have been doing. Or to put it another way:

 

[djn04]

Great news.

Now, some non-audio words of advice - table saws are deadly - you can lose all your fingers in a split second (and I really mean that - I've seen it happen).

Take your time, and use a push stick to move wood across the surface. Always make sure you have a good comfortable stance when using the machine, so that you're never leaning over it, or risking being out of balance. Plan the cuts you're going to do - if it doesn't feel right, don't do it.

Also, if you're cutting MDF, make sure you have an MDF rated face mask (for both the dust and the vapour) as it's nasty stuff when cutting.

Don't get smart - experience is no substitute for care. Case in point - dumb*ss here has just lost the end of his thumb on a router table doing something he shouldn't have been doing. Or to put it another way:

Success!!! Well at least partial success. I've just completed one of the cabinets with the exception of the front baffle and I still have all my fingers and toes. I bought a little plastic handle to push the MDF through the saw so the hands stay away from the blade.

I'm going to order the ZRT kit assuming the cabinets work out. Also I'm not doing the sloped baffle and I've promised to veneer them with something "pretty"


I'm also going to put outriggers on them a la the cremonas

 

[djn04]

So. I'm leaning towards doing the cabinets again. They came out good but I think there's room for improvement. I did learn a lot in making the first set though.

I think the biggest thing I learned was to plan all your cuts well. Adjust the rip fence to the length and make all the cuts of that length before moving the fence. This way you're assured that all the pieces will be the same size. I learned this the hard way. This all goes into the planning.

Another thing that was a tremendous help were corner clamps. They made the gluing up process a breeze.

I guess I'll buy another piece of MDF and give it another go.

 

[sploo]

...I think the biggest thing I learned was to plan all your cuts well. Adjust the rip fence to the length and make all the cuts of that length before moving the fence. This way you're assured that all the pieces will be the same size. I learned this the hard way. This all goes into the planning...

Sounds like you're going about things the right way.

Word of advice - it may be worth having the drivers in your possession before you go cutting some of the finer detail, as I've found that physical measurements can sometimes differ slightly from the published specs. I also just like to have the driver in my hand, so I can work out if there are going to be any issues with mounting it in the way I've planned.

Good luck - and keep going.

 

[Drew Eckhardt]

I think the biggest thing I learned was to plan all your cuts well. Adjust the rip fence to the length and make all the cuts of that length before moving the fence. This way you're assured that all the pieces will be the same size. I learned this the hard way. This all goes into the planning.

One other thing is that making parts over-sized and then trimming to fit is easier than trying to get exact matches. I'd make the top+bottom and front+back, glue, make the sides oversized by 1/8 - 1/4", and then trim to fit with my router.

Extras are a good idea too; maybe an extra set of front+back and top+bottoms. That way when you have an accident (sometimes you measure wrong, the wood breaks, the face veneer splinters, things get knocked over and dent a corner, you wiggle a bit and have snipe at the end of an edge, etc.) you don't have to work at getting the next piece you cut to match.

 

[Brewboy]

Since you are from the rose city a little trip down to Woodcrafters will fill the order for "something pretty"

http://woodcrafters.us/

If you have never been there before, be prepared for a life changing experience.

 

[sploo]

One other thing is that making parts over-sized and then trimming to fit is easier than trying to get exact matches. I'd make the top+bottom and front+back, glue, make the sides oversized by 1/8 - 1/4", and then trim to fit with my router.

Always a good idea. I even do it with CNC cut panels I produce, as they never glue together absolutely perfectly (i.e. sub-millimeter). However, IRC, the OP's aim was to produce a sloping box, which would be a bit harder to trim (at least for some of the joins).