New TK2050 board

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whaleman

whaleman

Member
Joined 2009
While we are on the T4 power subject, I used it with AC first, temporary 28-0-28 feed, then I made a linear power supply with a 500 VA trafo and full wave rectifier, followed by a massive Western Electric 75,000 uF electrolytic with bypasses. The performance is amazing and runs for half a minute after power off.
Ok, back on topic.
 
K

Kraw

Member
Joined 2011
Hi there everyone!

Got a question to power supply...

I'd like to use a toroid transformer with 18V (AC) and round about 350 VAC to power my HIFIMEDIY T2 2*100W which i recently bought. (waiting for the postman )

Should work just fine wouldn't it ? Since the specs say it can be driven with 16-22 VAC.

Thanks

Kraw
 
H

hifimediy

Member
Joined 2009
News

T1-M is a new board will beat TA2024/2020/2021. Based on TC2000+STA505/TP2050 chip set, this board can use power supply from 9V to 24V DC and output up to 40Watt@4ohm or 30W @8ohm.
Here is the photo.
 

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T

Tripath07

Member
Joined 2006
Hi guys,

I hooked the T1 ALPS back up to try it with the new Definitive Technology Pro Monitor 200's. Just like I have heard the Def Techs love power and responded nicely to the increase in power with the T1 ALPS! I believe this is also a great combination because the T1 ALPS has more punch and snap, but less articulation and musicallity than the T2 4700uf (which is amazing with my Paradigm Monitor 3 v3's). But with the Def Techs the snap and punch and slightly hard sound of the T1 ALPS when compared to the T2 4700uf's musicallity and articulation seems to be nicely off-set by the Def Techs smooth seamless soundfield with the •Linkwitz-Riley Crossover Networks!

Definitive Technology Pro Monitor 200 Specs below:

Comparison Specifications

•20-200 Watts/Channel Recommended Amplification Power
•4-8 ohms Nominal Impedance
•One 1" Ferrofluid-Dampened Pure Aluminum Dome Tweeter
•One 6-1/2" Long-Throw Upper Bass/Midrange Driver with Butyl Rubber Surrounds
•Linkwitz-Riley Crossover Networks
•28 Hz - 30 kHz Frequency Response
•High-Density, Mineral-Filled, Non-Resonant Polymer PolyStone

Additional Specifications
•91 db Efficiency

Dimensional Specifications
•Dimensions: 14" H x 7 3/4" W x 11" D Per Speaker
•Weight: 14 lbs. Per Speaker

I'm going to now leave the T1 ALPS hooked up for awhile and break her in some more. That is until the new T2 with the Nichicon KG 4700uf cap is completed.

My new Nichicon KG 4700uf cap has arrived! I am now about to remove the black 10000uf cap and install it in that T2. Then I will have to build that new amp up in a new case with all the trimmings.

Once I have that built, I will have 3 completed hifimediy 2050 amps. Two T2's and one T1 ALPS.

Now since I now have two sets of speakers in the upstairs stereo room, I now have to use both sets. :) So I have ordered a pair of High quality gold RCA splitters so I will be able to run TWO of my hifimediy Amps at the same time to power the Def techs and the Paradigm Monitor 3 v3's at the same time!!! Looks like two weeks shipping time...

Have a great weekend!!
 
C

Centvrion

Member
Joined 2011
Tripath07 said:
Hi,

I need some help. I am trying to remove the black 10,000uf cap from my T2 and it doesn't seem to want to come out even with the soldering iron.

Can anyone help me with some advice?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Does tin melt?Perhaps you should use a more powerful iron;-) You should force little by little, a little one than a little the other cap terminal, switching quickly while pulling the cap with a lever. If it doesn't want to come out it must be glued on board!XD
 
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T

Tripath07

Member
Joined 2006
Centvrion said:
Does tin melt?Perhaps you should use a more powerful iron;-) You should force little by little, a little one than a little the other cap terminal, switching quickly while pulling the cap with a lever. If it doesn't want to come out it must be glued on board!XD
Click to expand...

Hi,

Thanks, I think now after trying again and making sure the iron is as hot as it is going to get, the problem is the iron is not hot enough to melt it enough, it seems to only have enough to melt it a little than no more. I need a new iron. Thanks.

I also really appreciate to techinque advice you gave me. I will apply that later today after I buy a new iron. It does now wiggle so I do not think it is glued.

Thanks again!
 
N

nwboater

Member
Joined 2010
Tripath07 said:
Hi,

I need some help. I am trying to remove the black 10,000uf cap from my T2 and it doesn't seem to want to come out even with the soldering iron.

Can anyone help me with some advice?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Way back when I used to do some PC board repairs and mods I used a 'solder sucker'. There were many types available with the simplest being a tubular affair with a spring loaded plunger. It had a small opening on one end. After heating the connection with your soldering iron you would place the tip of the solder sucker over the solder tab and release the plunger. If things were hot enough all of the solder would be sucked into the tool. Occasionally a second time was required to get it all. When done properly the wire on the device you are trying to remove just slips out.

Without something like that tool there is a risk of damaging the trace on the board as you heat the connection and try to pull out the component lead at the same time.

Worked for me.

Rod
 
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