Caps
Thanks. But I can't condone the All ( fill in the blank ) sound "The Same" engineering rhetoric because I easily hear differences between just about everything I compare. Neither do I support the pricing of $300 caps so I always look for the best bang for the buck such as the Dayton foil or Obbligato caps.
Hi, it works good these days, and this kind of heat-sink can be installed to the case(or something like that) to get better effect.
There is no output relays on the module, but don't worry about the clip-clop noise when power on and off. But I think a external PSU+Protection board will come later.
30~50V DC is OK for this module.
hifimediy
I hope somone didn´t make a missunderstood and troubled the things.
As I know Li-Ion batteries are relative safe. The newer generation so called
Li-Po (lymer) batteries could be dangerous regarding the charging issue.
No no, both Li-Ion and LiPoly are very dangerous when not charged as specified ! They do blow if these cells are not charged within 1% of their specifications. That is why in 99% of the cases a charging + protection circuit is "built in" in the battery. Just look at the battery of your cell phone/GSM.
Do not underestimate the risks when working with separate Li-Ion/LiPoly cells and unknown chargers.... These are absolute not suitable for DIY use when one does not know this stuff and the background. Please don't compare them with the more sturdy (and heavy) foolproof Pb batteries.
Since experiments with this type of cells have often gone wrong I just emphasize the risks in the hope that this knowledge will spread.
Last edited:
Hi Paul,
thanks for your hint. This could be depended on an older text where Li-Po akkus
appeared new in research and technnology - and till nowadays Li-Pos are known to be more sensitive regarding thermic and overcharging issues than Li-Ion.
But you are right. Li-Ions are also dangerous when not handled with care and experience. Self experiments to develope custom chargers are strictly not recommended ...
thanks for your hint. This could be depended on an older text where Li-Po akkus
appeared new in research and technnology - and till nowadays Li-Pos are known to be more sensitive regarding thermic and overcharging issues than Li-Ion.
But you are right. Li-Ions are also dangerous when not handled with care and experience. Self experiments to develope custom chargers are strictly not recommended ...
Hi,
Has anybody tried one of Connexelectronics Balanced Input Phase Shifter boards
with these tk2050 modules?
Would it improve sound quality?
I Presume you still would be unable to bridge though as they are already full bridge?
Also as for your new T3 module. I am interested in this board also!
You say that you are thinking of building a linear power supply with speaker protection and anti Pop system. I would only consider using SMPS or batteries so for people like me could you make the speaker protection and anti pop board as a separate item?
Kind Regards
Has anybody tried one of Connexelectronics Balanced Input Phase Shifter boards
with these tk2050 modules?
Would it improve sound quality?
I Presume you still would be unable to bridge though as they are already full bridge?
Also as for your new T3 module. I am interested in this board also!
You say that you are thinking of building a linear power supply with speaker protection and anti Pop system. I would only consider using SMPS or batteries so for people like me could you make the speaker protection and anti pop board as a separate item?
Kind Regards
Hi, we can unsoder PSU parts and just use other functions on board. Or sometimes tank caps can be used too if like.
The B.I.P.S. on tk2050 would be unuseful.
According to Christi (the Connexelectronics owner) the B.I.P.S. is useful on the TA3020 only if used as a subwoofer... (he emailed that to me), so considering the low current absorption of the TK2050 you don't need the BIPS.
Just use a powerful enough power supply.
The Hifimediy V1 board with the Alps pot is sounding absolutly sensational here, straight outta the dac , 30.5volts in , i have one V1 powering the mid/hi section of my Von Schweikert VR4.5s, superb sound at any price and for the money its simply unbelievable . its even bettter than the V2 was. and the heatsink on the V1 barely gets warm.and the coils stay cool as.
i now have the V2 board on the bass section (4x Eton 8inch woofers) it has a very good grip on them and goes waay deep down there. The heatsink and coils on this amp do get quite warm esp after an hour or so at higher volumes
but it does it very well still ,i would like to hear the new 300watt T3s on the bass when they do come out ;-)
These amp boards reveal the sonic differances between differnt sources VERY clearly!
Good to see the new tweeked design V2 has the larger coils same as the V1!
great stuff keep it up !!
i now have the V2 board on the bass section (4x Eton 8inch woofers) it has a very good grip on them and goes waay deep down there. The heatsink and coils on this amp do get quite warm esp after an hour or so at higher volumes
but it does it very well still ,i would like to hear the new 300watt T3s on the bass when they do come out ;-)These amp boards reveal the sonic differances between differnt sources VERY clearly!
Good to see the new tweeked design V2 has the larger coils same as the V1!
great stuff keep it up !!
Today i installed 2 of the V2 amp boards in an Alpine based car system - the V2 sound superb of course and LOTS of Grunt .
To power the two V2s boards in the the car i used a 13amp version of this 27.6v power supply ,(you have to email to get the 13 amp version) but anyway im sure these 5 amp supplies shown are fine for one V2 : Autocostruire il negozio degli autocostruttori
To power the two V2s boards in the the car i used a 13amp version of this 27.6v power supply ,(you have to email to get the 13 amp version) but anyway im sure these 5 amp supplies shown are fine for one V2 : Autocostruire il negozio degli autocostruttori
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.