Re: Re: more details please
Thanks that was quick.
question is there soldering that needs to be done to assemble the or is it a ready built kit (what i see is what i get)?
its recommend that i use a 50k pot with my amp-6 basic
i see two 10k resistors in the audio out 10K + 10K ‘R15 or R22’ does this mean it acts like a 20k pot? can i modify these two resistors to get the 50k ?
do yo have dimensions for the lcd board?
i would like to build a front panel/enclosure.
bbp said:
Hi billy, email sent
Thanks that was quick.
question is there soldering that needs to be done to assemble the or is it a ready built kit (what i see is what i get)?
its recommend that i use a 50k pot with my amp-6 basic
i see two 10k resistors in the audio out 10K + 10K ‘R15 or R22’ does this mean it acts like a 20k pot? can i modify these two resistors to get the 50k ?
do yo have dimensions for the lcd board?
i would like to build a front panel/enclosure.
Wooooooooooow What a wonderful job !!!
no problem, I used modushop.biz for the case. The front panel was done by schaeffer (or front panel express as they are in the USA). The knobs were from partspipe express on ebay.
it works really well, and looks good.
Currently i have pedja rogic buffers in there, but i may try the pass labs B1.
Thanks
Adamus.
it works really well, and looks good.
Currently i have pedja rogic buffers in there, but i may try the pass labs B1.
Thanks
Adamus.
b1-r2r
I have combined the two and am general very happy with them- I run a separate switched mode power supply for Lu's kit ( beefy to fulfill the required 1/2 amp need of the relays) and a regulated torroid/317 audio amateur power supply for the B1 (clean,relatively fast, low impeance)- for casework I used a old Hafler 101 preamp- and upgraded Lu's remote to a learning Philips which "speaks" to my cd player and all of the functions of the preamp- fun project, very clean sound, well priced. Also just finished NP's f5 which I built into an old Halfer d220 amp case. The two work very well together
Lu I am having a probelm with sound at certain levels; for instance at levels 22-25 the sound drops to a equivalent level of say 40, doesn't change on any of the three steps, both channels affected- Is this a relay problem? What would your guess be? Seen this before, any suggestions?
thanks for your time
rob
I have combined the two and am general very happy with them- I run a separate switched mode power supply for Lu's kit ( beefy to fulfill the required 1/2 amp need of the relays) and a regulated torroid/317 audio amateur power supply for the B1 (clean,relatively fast, low impeance)- for casework I used a old Hafler 101 preamp- and upgraded Lu's remote to a learning Philips which "speaks" to my cd player and all of the functions of the preamp- fun project, very clean sound, well priced. Also just finished NP's f5 which I built into an old Halfer d220 amp case. The two work very well together
Lu I am having a probelm with sound at certain levels; for instance at levels 22-25 the sound drops to a equivalent level of say 40, doesn't change on any of the three steps, both channels affected- Is this a relay problem? What would your guess be? Seen this before, any suggestions?
thanks for your time
rob
r2r- suspect steps
lu
this is defineately not a log vs linear issue
step 26 is half the volume of step 27 and doesn't change until i get to step 23 then it is at an appropriate volume louder; than 27-
this is tough to say but very easy to hear
another way of saying it ;
the transition from step 27 to step 26 should be a bit louder at each step- it is not, in fact 26 is half the volume of 27 and stays at that same level for the next two steps and then it returns to where the volume should be at step 23- ie discernably louder than 27.
is no one else having this problem?- ie it possible that there is a short in those relays? I can take the board out and apply air to it but it will be several hours of work- I'm hoping for an easier solution
thanks for your time
rob
lu
this is defineately not a log vs linear issue
step 26 is half the volume of step 27 and doesn't change until i get to step 23 then it is at an appropriate volume louder; than 27-
this is tough to say but very easy to hear
another way of saying it ;
the transition from step 27 to step 26 should be a bit louder at each step- it is not, in fact 26 is half the volume of 27 and stays at that same level for the next two steps and then it returns to where the volume should be at step 23- ie discernably louder than 27.
is no one else having this problem?- ie it possible that there is a short in those relays? I can take the board out and apply air to it but it will be several hours of work- I'm hoping for an easier solution
thanks for your time
rob
r-2r problems
Lu
I was able to do a little cataloging tonight and this is what i've come up with
I have approximately 32 steps of appropriate volume with the attenuator- specifically steps; 65&64 may be too low to count but
63,61,59,56,54,52,49,47,45,43,41,39,37,34,33,32,28,26,
22,21,20,18,16,15,14,13,10,09,05,04,02,01
all seem ok
every step between them is WAY down in volume, not muted but seriously lower than the next working step-
Do you see a pattern or have an idea of what would be causing this(a non-functioning relay?)-other than directly soldering the individual sources to the input pins(and they are all working well) I have not modified the board-
I appreciate your efforts in trying to solve my problem
rob
Lu
I was able to do a little cataloging tonight and this is what i've come up with
I have approximately 32 steps of appropriate volume with the attenuator- specifically steps; 65&64 may be too low to count but
63,61,59,56,54,52,49,47,45,43,41,39,37,34,33,32,28,26,
22,21,20,18,16,15,14,13,10,09,05,04,02,01
all seem ok
every step between them is WAY down in volume, not muted but seriously lower than the next working step-
Do you see a pattern or have an idea of what would be causing this(a non-functioning relay?)-other than directly soldering the individual sources to the input pins(and they are all working well) I have not modified the board-
I appreciate your efforts in trying to solve my problem
rob
I found some 60Hz, 120Hz, Hummm in my loudspeaker after the R-2R attenuator,
(No Hummm sound if I connect the speaker directly to the source)
How to get rid of the noise?
Do I have to ground the signal ground to the case?
Or do I have to ground the +5V/Ground power ground to the case?
Or even ground the power ground to signal ground?
Please help, thank you~
(No Hummm sound if I connect the speaker directly to the source)
How to get rid of the noise?
Do I have to ground the signal ground to the case?
Or do I have to ground the +5V/Ground power ground to the case?
Or even ground the power ground to signal ground?
Please help, thank you~
I found similar hum problem as well....as soon as I replace the R-2R with a pot the hum level drop significantly while maintaining the same wire length connection to the input source and output.
I notice that the ground supply and signal is separated which in my opinion is a good practice for this circuit.
So I'm wondering where that hum comes from? Is the oscillator at the main board gets coupled some how..?
Joshua
I notice that the ground supply and signal is separated which in my opinion is a good practice for this circuit.
So I'm wondering where that hum comes from? Is the oscillator at the main board gets coupled some how..?
Joshua
grounding and relay issues
grounding noise can be best solved with isolation and experimentation. Get a battery powered source(mp3 for instance) and hook you preamp with the r2r to a clean amp/speaker combo or better a self powered speaker(radio shack sells a $20 "powered speaker that is perfect for this). Take your preamp out of the stereo rack back to your shop(kitchen table) and if you still have the buzz with only the preamp plugged into the wall then you can start checking its ground scheme. Lift one at a time till you find the culprit.
If you have no buzz with the battery driven source and speaker then its the combination of the preamp and the amp/sources. Try pulling the amp and plugging the preamp in with no source or just the battery powered source. Are both the preamp and the amp three wire? Many people believe that only the preamp should be( the earth grounded piece). There are many opinions on this and CAREFUL experimentation can help you find the buzz- remember once you have the preamp buzz free by itself(ie with the battery driven source and speaker) add one thing at a time to isolate any other problems. Compulsive wins this race!
Lu any thoughts on my muted steps? Glt suggested a bad relay or driver. You opinion please- and how would I fix this if it is indeed one of these issues?
thanks for your time
rob
grounding noise can be best solved with isolation and experimentation. Get a battery powered source(mp3 for instance) and hook you preamp with the r2r to a clean amp/speaker combo or better a self powered speaker(radio shack sells a $20 "powered speaker that is perfect for this). Take your preamp out of the stereo rack back to your shop(kitchen table) and if you still have the buzz with only the preamp plugged into the wall then you can start checking its ground scheme. Lift one at a time till you find the culprit.
If you have no buzz with the battery driven source and speaker then its the combination of the preamp and the amp/sources. Try pulling the amp and plugging the preamp in with no source or just the battery powered source. Are both the preamp and the amp three wire? Many people believe that only the preamp should be( the earth grounded piece). There are many opinions on this and CAREFUL experimentation can help you find the buzz- remember once you have the preamp buzz free by itself(ie with the battery driven source and speaker) add one thing at a time to isolate any other problems. Compulsive wins this race!
Lu any thoughts on my muted steps? Glt suggested a bad relay or driver. You opinion please- and how would I fix this if it is indeed one of these issues?
thanks for your time
rob
I solved the humming problem...
Using a super regulator, which have ultra clean +5V,
The hum is gone.
I think the lead is very long on the PCB and likely to pick up the noise from the +5V line on the PCB.
Although using a super regulator to power the kit seems overkilled, but really solve the problem.
Using a super regulator, which have ultra clean +5V,
The hum is gone.
I think the lead is very long on the PCB and likely to pick up the noise from the +5V line on the PCB.
Although using a super regulator to power the kit seems overkilled, but really solve the problem.
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