I have ABS plastic horns, that sound like if it was made of ABS plastic, and horns casted in plaster cast that sound like if it was made of stone - that does not improve on harshness BTW!
And now I have wooden horns, that sound like if it was made of wood. It was a few more weeks work, but is was worth it, and the sound is plus naturel. I plan to make every horn in wood from now on. It is nice to brush up on my wood carving skills from primary school. It is also a very therapeutic hobby, if one has any phycological issues, horn-related or not.
The smaller horns will be even easier. The giant horn was a messy start. I learned a lot during this first prototype.
And now I have wooden horns, that sound like if it was made of wood. It was a few more weeks work, but is was worth it, and the sound is plus naturel. I plan to make every horn in wood from now on. It is nice to brush up on my wood carving skills from primary school. It is also a very therapeutic hobby, if one has any phycological issues, horn-related or not.
The smaller horns will be even easier. The giant horn was a messy start. I learned a lot during this first prototype.
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I have to correct myself again:
It seems like the SG-505 just goes to 300-400 Hz with a 140 Hz Le Cleache horn, like Bear wrote. If the horn is tuned for 140Hz, I think the Goto driver should manage 200 Hz. Hence I suspect the SG-505 does not go as low as the K55 and FS100W. But I can't afford to go Goto, so I will not know for quite some time.
...FS100W, not the SG-505.
It seems like the SG-505 just goes to 300-400 Hz with a 140 Hz Le Cleache horn, like Bear wrote. If the horn is tuned for 140Hz, I think the Goto driver should manage 200 Hz. Hence I suspect the SG-505 does not go as low as the K55 and FS100W. But I can't afford to go Goto, so I will not know for quite some time.
I have come so far to say I need to start thinking about a subwoofer. This is unexplored territory for me. I will have to figure out if I want a hornloaded, sealed, or vented sub. But also 3 inch VC or 4 inch VC. Also 10, 12, 18, 21, or 24 inch size.
I will wait a week to see if the FS100W is acceptable. Then I need a sub that is focused on the region below 100Hz. I have not found a woofer with specs from the manufacturer that reveal if their speaker is good for lowpass at e.g. 80 Hz, rather than 120 Hz. If I stick with the K55 or the JA6681B the limit will be 200Hz. StigErik use his Beyma 21" up to 200Hz, in open baffle now less, but I have read many who advice against it. And many more who hates open baffle.
Romy the Cat, I believe uses 10" sub arrays, but I doubt 10" will be enough for my needs. I would like to start out with a mono sub, to see if the driver I end up choosing can give me any hints of what to choose next. I want the best, ofc, but it seems the best is rather pricey. 400 GBP for one 18" Precision Audio, or 300 GBP for 18" subs from Beyma. Then I read advice to have four subs on both channels and to parallell connect them down to 2 ohm, in order to not have to buy an amplifier with industrial specs. Some say that that if I would like to have quick and punchy sound I should choose a sub with a 3 inch voice coil. They say subs with 4 inch voice coils, like Precision Devices 184, goes lower, but is not as quick and punchy. And that quality they describe as "quick and punchy" is probably what I need to make the subs blend with all these very quick and punchy compression drivers.
Where would be a good start?
I will wait a week to see if the FS100W is acceptable. Then I need a sub that is focused on the region below 100Hz. I have not found a woofer with specs from the manufacturer that reveal if their speaker is good for lowpass at e.g. 80 Hz, rather than 120 Hz. If I stick with the K55 or the JA6681B the limit will be 200Hz. StigErik use his Beyma 21" up to 200Hz, in open baffle now less, but I have read many who advice against it. And many more who hates open baffle.
Romy the Cat, I believe uses 10" sub arrays, but I doubt 10" will be enough for my needs. I would like to start out with a mono sub, to see if the driver I end up choosing can give me any hints of what to choose next. I want the best, ofc, but it seems the best is rather pricey. 400 GBP for one 18" Precision Audio, or 300 GBP for 18" subs from Beyma. Then I read advice to have four subs on both channels and to parallell connect them down to 2 ohm, in order to not have to buy an amplifier with industrial specs. Some say that that if I would like to have quick and punchy sound I should choose a sub with a 3 inch voice coil. They say subs with 4 inch voice coils, like Precision Devices 184, goes lower, but is not as quick and punchy. And that quality they describe as "quick and punchy" is probably what I need to make the subs blend with all these very quick and punchy compression drivers.
Where would be a good start?
I have heard few subs that was not a typical home theater sub, or a typical big box PA sub.
I have started to build this: Folded bass horn - The Paper Horn by Inlow Sound
But I am not sure if I should finish. Mine would use twin 12". There might be better designs out there, so build is on hault.
I was thinking of a regular subwoofer, but an awesome one, like the $2k Seaton submersive. Look at how deep it goes!
I have started to build this: Folded bass horn - The Paper Horn by Inlow Sound
But I am not sure if I should finish. Mine would use twin 12". There might be better designs out there, so build is on hault.
I was thinking of a regular subwoofer, but an awesome one, like the $2k Seaton submersive. Look at how deep it goes!
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Rewind, probably the biggest issue with horns is the inherent issue of how to integrate Bass which will blend and keep up with the dynamics and detail gained with horns. This is one of the reasons I am looking at dual FS100W's in a manifold so get to around or below 100Hz. Asking a sub to go from 20 to 200Hz is a very difficult problem to tackle, and one of the reasons why a 12 or 15 below the mid or mid high horn is often used.
If you have any recommendations for 20-100hz drivers with designs that will fit with a horn system let me know. After my eperiments today I could get the k55 down to 150Hz fine. But did I prefer the jbl 2204H at 180Hz? Maybe. The JBL sounded a little better below 200Hz. But the horn is best until 200 Hz.
We will se with the fs100w.
I could use the 2204 between 100-200Hz. But what a silly narrow band that would be.
Dispersion is also an issue. The horns need a woofer that bounces against walls and ceiling in the same way. Small waveguide can fix this.
Try the Decware WO32 you will not be disappointed.
If you need spl stack two or four..........but it's not that important
if you don't through big parties outside.
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The beauty of those cones is not in the low region.
The lower you go with the mid horn the less you need those overpriced creatures.
If your transition to the mid horn is at about 200-300hz forget them.
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