What if I introduced the front bass port AND a bottom base port that is adjustable for size and height? Am I creating some trouble here?
Building a box that allows you to play with port size, tuning, and positioning in your room is always a good idea. Make it cheap, dial it in, and make the pretty version later.
Make a double chamber
That's a spectacularly bad idea for a first project.
(In case someone missed your winky-face emoticon.)
FWIW, this calculator is off a bit as it uses a fairly low SoS to calculate Vas and while it allows one to input some series resistance [Rg], it doesn't factor it into Qts, so calculates a theoretically too small a net Vb and consequently a too long vent system and too high an efficiency.
GM
GM
It's just a big vent reflex [BVR], which is clearly shown in Hiraga's[?] own measurement and why I recommend just using one or two large pipe vents unless one wants to build one more for its 'looks' than its performance. Better yet is to make a large vent MLTL, which performs much more like Hiraga[?] imagined it.
GM
GM
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buffedupboy:
If you intend to make a single pair well finished cabinets for your 604 drivers I would make them 5-10 percent bigger ( if you can ) then the final outside dimensions. This will give you some leeway with final tuning.
As Cal has mentioned your cabinets are going to be big and resonance control of those large panels should be a top priority. There is no such thing as too many braces so long as you calculate this into your final internal volume.
My friend started out with about 12 cu' volume and by the time he was done with the braces etc. he was down to about 10-10.5 cu'.
First off, he started with 3 layers of Baltic birch for the front panel with Green Glue in between each layer. He also made each panel a different thickness by using various sizes of marine plywood also Green Glued to all the 3/4" Baltic birch panels. The braces were made of 2" x2" solid red oak--he used at least 12 braces. While this may sound a bit extreme, it has paid off sound wise. You do not hear his cabinets " sing ". Make the cabinets the best you can and enjoy the music.
If you intend to make a single pair well finished cabinets for your 604 drivers I would make them 5-10 percent bigger ( if you can ) then the final outside dimensions. This will give you some leeway with final tuning.
As Cal has mentioned your cabinets are going to be big and resonance control of those large panels should be a top priority. There is no such thing as too many braces so long as you calculate this into your final internal volume.
My friend started out with about 12 cu' volume and by the time he was done with the braces etc. he was down to about 10-10.5 cu'.
First off, he started with 3 layers of Baltic birch for the front panel with Green Glue in between each layer. He also made each panel a different thickness by using various sizes of marine plywood also Green Glued to all the 3/4" Baltic birch panels. The braces were made of 2" x2" solid red oak--he used at least 12 braces. While this may sound a bit extreme, it has paid off sound wise. You do not hear his cabinets " sing ". Make the cabinets the best you can and enjoy the music.
NOTE: "Green Glue" is a visco-elastic damping material (not glue) used for constrained layer damping (CLD).
Red Spade Audio: Building a curved speaker with constrained layer damping
Red Spade Audio: Building a curved speaker with constrained layer damping
I have a 604E just sitting on my dining room floor, I use it as a dust collector.
??? Send it to me and I'll make full use of it....
You don't have any dust collectors at your house???? Send it to me and I'll make full use of it....
Hi GM,
Thanks alot for your opinion on this subject. And you have summarized it well. If it was an Altec set I was considering, no question I would go for the Alnico magnets. But in this case, we can't be sure as there are just too many variables.
Thanks alot for your opinion on this subject. And you have summarized it well. If it was an Altec set I was considering, no question I would go for the Alnico magnets. But in this case, we can't be sure as there are just too many variables.
Greets!
Interesting! We were discussing the pros/cons of AlNiCo Vs Ferrite, so when you made this statement I took it to just mean the motors, which I agree with until the drivers are sucking up some amps and again, only WRT the woofer.
We all hear the same, yet not so much, especially as we get older, so no way I ever question what folks hear less it becomes patently obvious they’re hearing impaired and since neither of us have auditioned either, much less side by side…….so you’re right, Bill’s thoughts hold sway, especially since he’s the designer of both.
Regardless, even if they were to sound identical to you when driven with a high quality SS front end, I still believe the E2 is a better choice overall for your musical preferences and especially once you swap to a high output impedance SET amp if the S3 and E2 published response plots are typical of all production units.
At this point, folks who either don’t notice a difference and/or are ambivalent about it tend to be tone deaf to some greater or lesser extent IME since there’s a synergy of sorts between AlNiCo and certain types of tube amp that’s hard to define. ‘Refined’/’liquid’ is about the best I can do.
Even then, this assumes that the magnets are made to the same specs as the originals, which may not be the case and there’s differences in the basic motor design of each to complicate matters, so hard to make any sort of accurate comparison beyond a blind A-B comparison.
Too many unknowns to really ‘nail down’ all the pros/cons from a purely technical POV to suit me, just tried to do match them up with your stated performance goals as best I could with what I have to work with combined with my varied experiences with Altec speaker products.
GM
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