I might have to give Linux another try. I used Red Hat Fedora Core AGES ago and was just not computer savvy enough to get it up and going right.
If you kill the LED definitely document it! I'm sure its not that tough but I always like more pics
Scott
Ubuntu is great. It "just works". Just make sure to avoid the "Unity" desktop environment. The best way to do this is to install a slightly older version, such as 10.04 and then you have the option of selecting "Ubuntu Classic" at the bottom of the login screen before you log in. "Ubuntu Classic" gives you the standard Gnome desktop, which is loved by millions. "Unity" is despised by millions.
The hack we used on the over-bright blue LED on the KingRex was a small piece of black electrical tape.
dave
One of the best tools in the box is electical tape!
Thanks for the tip. Sometimes the simplest hack is the one I overlook.
Just out of curiousity, would there be some negative impact if I was to simply snip one of the LED leads (other than the fact that reversing the process is much more involved than peeling off a piece of tape)?
Ubuntu is great. It "just works". Just make sure to avoid the "Unity" desktop environment. The best way to do this is to install a slightly older version, such as 10.04 and then you have the option of selecting "Ubuntu Classic" at the bottom of the login screen before you log in. "Ubuntu Classic" gives you the standard Gnome desktop, which is loved by millions. "Unity" is despised by millions.
Oh ok good tip! Maybe I'll try a dual boot, see if I can figure that out. Its been a while since I've tried but I'm sure there's good tech out there.
When the Ubuntu installer sees your Windows(?) it'll walk you through creating a dual-boot system. Dead simple.
I'm not sure. I guess that all depends on what your SPL goals are. I can turn this amp to about 2 o'clock, with the bass knob at roughly 2 o'clock. Much beyond that and I'd be pushing the driver excursion farther than I am comfortable with. On top of that, these little amps will tend to start to clip well before they reach their rated output (which is 20 w/chan. into 4 ohms or 12 w/chan. into 8 ohms). Distortion increases dramatically at high/max output as well. It is really probably better to think of them as a 4 or 5 watt (into 8 ohms) amplifier. In the video, I am probably pushing less than a watt through the drivers, perhaps a bit more, and that is much louder that I plan to run the system on a regular basis. For TV/movies and easy listening music, I might have the volume knob between 9 and 10 o'clock.
With the efficiency advantage of running multiple drivers, and a scenario were you don't need ear-bleeding SPL, it might be enough amplification for a main system. There are just too many factors and I am too inexperienced to say much more on it...
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Oh yeah these will be used for bedroom or office use so SPL isn't much of a consideration on these ones. I appreciate the info though!
Scott
Yeah I'm really leaning towards two and doing this "cap trick" that Danny discusses over at AC: Best Sounding Single Drivers
Now time to model and find a suitable tower to do it all with
Exactly. I will have to look at the Needle, I don't know if it was ever modeled for this driver or if something would need to change or not
Just got my drivers and built some VERY crude OB "housings" for them to get them broken in. I've got them wired in parallel for a 4ohm load and my Onkyo isn't having any issues with it. There's obviously no bass and they've only been breaking in for about 20 minutes but they're already imaging pretty well. I'm planning on building simple BR towers like what the OP built except I'm going to have one driver facing upwards and one forward and use them as surrounds in my all FR HT. If they don't work well I can easily build another enclosure for them. Think it'll be a fun project. When I start construction of the cabinets themselves I'll start my own thread so as not to high jack this one.
Scott
Scott
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