2 OPTIONS..
fIT a non polar cap instead or measure voltage across the cap, this will tell you the voltage polarity and thus cap polarity....
No cct diagram to hand to confirm anything I am afraid....
Did no one suggest cap replacement? Bugger 'cause that 33 mfd cap is the root of a lot of evil.....
fIT a non polar cap instead or measure voltage across the cap, this will tell you the voltage polarity and thus cap polarity....
No cct diagram to hand to confirm anything I am afraid....
Did no one suggest cap replacement? Bugger 'cause that 33 mfd cap is the root of a lot of evil.....
Set laser pots correctly ASAP!!!!
More then likely it was the caps that failed not the adjustements of pots that did the thing... Please search for CDM 4 laser set up so that you may correctly set laser focus and current so that you will get to track 8 quickly and you do not kill your laser by giving it to much juice!!!!!
More then likely it was the caps that failed not the adjustements of pots that did the thing... Please search for CDM 4 laser set up so that you may correctly set laser focus and current so that you will get to track 8 quickly and you do not kill your laser by giving it to much juice!!!!!
Hi there!
Thanks for your help - to be honest now I know it IS capable of working I think I'll send it off to Naim for a full tweaking to their specs, and also for their re-cap service (machine is 12 years old now). They had told me there were no transports left for this model so it was beyond repair so to speak. However now I know transport is OK (probably dodgy caps as you say) I'd like to get it properly set up as I lack the equipment to do this myself adequately.
Thanks to everyone who helped me with this - MUCH appreciated
- John
Thanks for your help - to be honest now I know it IS capable of working I think I'll send it off to Naim for a full tweaking to their specs, and also for their re-cap service (machine is 12 years old now). They had told me there were no transports left for this model so it was beyond repair so to speak. However now I know transport is OK (probably dodgy caps as you say) I'd like to get it properly set up as I lack the equipment to do this myself adequately.
Thanks to everyone who helped me with this - MUCH appreciated
- John
Well after a boring Sunday afternoon decided 'what the hell' and spent some time puring over the datasheets for the chips on the CDM4 servo board, and a service manual, as well as the incredibly helpful posts on this board regarding adjustment of CDM4 transports.
After a bit of trepidation managed to set the pots on the board to the Philips specs Looking back on it - as is so often the way - it seems like child's play, but I was so close to just paying someone else to do it!
I'd like to say a HUGE thank you to everyone who helped me over the months with this - much appreciated!
Now to listen to my CDi again, let it warm up and then just check those settings ONE LAST time.... ;-)
- John
After a bit of trepidation managed to set the pots on the board to the Philips specs
Looking back on it - as is so often the way - it seems like child's play, but I was so close to just paying someone else to do it!I'd like to say a HUGE thank you to everyone who helped me over the months with this - much appreciated!
Now to listen to my CDi again, let it warm up and then just check those settings ONE LAST time.... ;-)
- John
My CDI is skipping tracks...
Hello!
I am about to put the screw driver on my CDI to get it going again, any tips on where I can find
- A service manual
- Info on measurement points, adjustments
- List of CD players to canibalize for parts?
- info on where I can find the 33 uf cap to replace
Any tips greatly appreciated!
/Peter
Hello!
I am about to put the screw driver on my CDI to get it going again, any tips on where I can find
- A service manual
- Info on measurement points, adjustments
- List of CD players to canibalize for parts?
- info on where I can find the 33 uf cap to replace
Any tips greatly appreciated!
/Peter
Hi Peter.
If you send me a PM I'll send you everything you need in a few days. I also have spare 33uF caps which I can send you free of charge.
Replacement lasers can be extracted from any CDM4/19 mechanism if need be... However once you've replaced the puck and all the capacitors on the servo board you may not need a new laser.
** If you're CDI uses the CDM-9 mechanism regret I cannot help however **
Cheers,
- John
p.s. you may want to order a Naim CD5i puck - works wonders with the CDI (seriously!).
If you send me a PM I'll send you everything you need in a few days. I also have spare 33uF caps which I can send you free of charge.
Replacement lasers can be extracted from any CDM4/19 mechanism if need be... However once you've replaced the puck and all the capacitors on the servo board you may not need a new laser.
** If you're CDI uses the CDM-9 mechanism regret I cannot help however **
Cheers,
- John
p.s. you may want to order a Naim CD5i puck - works wonders with the CDI (seriously!).
Hello!
Super thanks for quick reply! I put the screwdriver to the CDI last night and it's definitly a CDM-4/27 unit on my one... after googling - no luck!
Big thanks for the offer of 33 uf caps - but I am hot to trott so it's off to the electronics store today!
So you you think is it possible to replace the laser only from any CDM4/19 units? Any ideas on which CD players that are possible donors? Even if i can fix my CDI with new caps it seems like a good idea to start looking now!
I did find someone selling CDM-4/25 - for 100 euros + ouch! But the spindle looks like aluminium on the pic which adds up with this form... not magnetic, no go.
Thanks for the tip on the Naim CD5i puck, but another thing is that the "rubbery paint" on the spindle seems to have almost worn off... does anyone have ideas on what to use to repaint it?
And those measurment points to measure laser current, is there an easy way to explain where they are in this forum?
Super thanks again!
/Peter
Super thanks for quick reply! I put the screwdriver to the CDI last night and it's definitly a CDM-4/27 unit on my one... after googling - no luck!
Big thanks for the offer of 33 uf caps - but I am hot to trott so it's off to the electronics store today!
So you you think is it possible to replace the laser only from any CDM4/19 units? Any ideas on which CD players that are possible donors? Even if i can fix my CDI with new caps it seems like a good idea to start looking now!
I did find someone selling CDM-4/25 - for 100 euros + ouch! But the spindle looks like aluminium on the pic which adds up with this form... not magnetic, no go.
Thanks for the tip on the Naim CD5i puck, but another thing is that the "rubbery paint" on the spindle seems to have almost worn off... does anyone have ideas on what to use to repaint it?
And those measurment points to measure laser current, is there an easy way to explain where they are in this forum?
Super thanks again!
/Peter
Hiya.
As you've found out it's next to impossible to find new CDM4/27 mechs, but fortunately the actual swing-arm laser can be taken out of the CDM4/19 mech and placed into the CDM4/27 one quite simply, which I what I did successfully. After doing this however the adjustment pots need a tweak though which isn't quite so straightforward... Been a whiel since I did this (it's still working BTW - haha!) so will take me a few days to find the stuff.
CDM4/19 mechs can be found in players like the Rotel RCD-865 and also earlier Marantz players. Just do a search in this forum and you'll find loads of posts. I believe one of the forum members also has some new CDM4/19 mechs for sale still - check out the market place section...
Just replacing the caps might solve your problem, but it's still best to re-calibrate the two adjustment pots afterwards, but I'll send you info on this.
A word of warning, the circuit traces on the servo board lift off VERY easily so go easy when de-soldering the caps. Try and use a bit of flux if you can, and de-soldering braid.
Regarding the rubber, if you use the Naim CD5i puck the rubber situation becomes mute. I actually removed it entirely from mine. Most modern mechs get by without this rubber, including the ones Naim use. Been using the CD5i puck for over 8 months now and never ONCE had any read errors at all. The sound quality also seems better as well - less jitter? Hard core Naim enthusiasts will call this sacrilidge, but it's cheap to try....
Good luck!
- John
As you've found out it's next to impossible to find new CDM4/27 mechs, but fortunately the actual swing-arm laser can be taken out of the CDM4/19 mech and placed into the CDM4/27 one quite simply, which I what I did successfully. After doing this however the adjustment pots need a tweak though which isn't quite so straightforward... Been a whiel since I did this (it's still working BTW - haha!) so will take me a few days to find the stuff.
CDM4/19 mechs can be found in players like the Rotel RCD-865 and also earlier Marantz players. Just do a search in this forum and you'll find loads of posts. I believe one of the forum members also has some new CDM4/19 mechs for sale still - check out the market place section...
Just replacing the caps might solve your problem, but it's still best to re-calibrate the two adjustment pots afterwards, but I'll send you info on this.
A word of warning, the circuit traces on the servo board lift off VERY easily so go easy when de-soldering the caps. Try and use a bit of flux if you can, and de-soldering braid.
Regarding the rubber, if you use the Naim CD5i puck the rubber situation becomes mute. I actually removed it entirely from mine. Most modern mechs get by without this rubber, including the ones Naim use. Been using the CD5i puck for over 8 months now and never ONCE had any read errors at all. The sound quality also seems better as well - less jitter? Hard core Naim enthusiasts will call this sacrilidge, but it's cheap to try....
Good luck!
- John
CDS1
John,
Could you please drop me a PM? (ev9048@yahoo(d0t)com)
I am having a problem with a cds1 player, and I think your CDI problem may have been the same. I don't think I can do the repair myself, but if I am hoping to be able to send the unit to a local philips repair house if I have some good direction for them to go. I am waiting for NAIM to respond to my query, but I am forseeing a $1000 repair, if they can do it at all.
thank you for your time.
Tim - Seattle, WA
John,
Could you please drop me a PM? (ev9048@yahoo(d0t)com)
I am having a problem with a cds1 player, and I think your CDI problem may have been the same. I don't think I can do the repair myself, but if I am hoping to be able to send the unit to a local philips repair house if I have some good direction for them to go. I am waiting for NAIM to respond to my query, but I am forseeing a $1000 repair, if they can do it at all.
thank you for your time.
Tim - Seattle, WA
nextel fix
Peter,
Look here for some ways the nextel (rubber) ring maybe repaired.
http://forums.naim-audio.com/eve/forums?a=tpc&s=67019385&f=48019385&m=257105234
Hope this helps.
Tim - Seattle, wa
Peter,
Look here for some ways the nextel (rubber) ring maybe repaired.
http://forums.naim-audio.com/eve/forums?a=tpc&s=67019385&f=48019385&m=257105234
Hope this helps.
Tim - Seattle, wa
Hi Tim!
Those were actually my posts, and they were posted before I discovered that using a Naim CD5i puck cured disc slippage.
Tell the repair house to replace all of the electrolytic caps on the philips CDM4/27 servo board, and to recalibrate the adjustment pots to Philips specs. You may also have problems with the daft Naim 'top hat' type puck which really doesn't do the transport any favours at all unless the puck is relatively new and you have no wearing of that damned black nextel ring...... Incidently, if you look at most draw-loading CD players using that mech or the CDM4/19 (i.e. Marantz/Philips/Rotel players etc) you will see the nextel ring has rarely worn away. The fact that it wears away pretty quickly on the Naim CDI is proof that the disc is vibrating and slipping more than it should using the top hat puck. I agree with Naim's reasons in theory for having the transport designed this way, but in practice it results in advanced wearing of the mech and disc reading errors as time goes on...
At the risk of ramming this down people's throats, a Naim CD5i puck means you can forget ANY nextel ring worries, and disc slippage. It is also lighter than the original top hat puck, and only clamps the disc in three points. The magnetic grip is just right as well. Contrary to what Naim and others might tell you (or WANT you to believe) there is no black magic at work with the top hat puck, and using the Naim CD5i puck will not decrease the sound quality... in my case I'm sure it improved it.
At any rate the puck is the first thing to try - see if you can borrow one from your local dealer. If that makes no difference, then the servo board needs the caps replaced, adjusted pots, and perhaps a new laser...
Cheers,
- John
P.S. Naim WILL probably tell you the whole mech needs replacing, which costs a fortune. That's what they told me. With new caps on the servo board, the pots adjusted and the Naim CD5i puck my Naim CDi is singing away again, and it all cost less than £30!!! I'm sure they will also advise not to use the CD5i puck as well, simply because the Naim CDI was designed to be used with the top hat puck.
Those were actually my posts, and they were posted before I discovered that using a Naim CD5i puck cured disc slippage.
Tell the repair house to replace all of the electrolytic caps on the philips CDM4/27 servo board, and to recalibrate the adjustment pots to Philips specs. You may also have problems with the daft Naim 'top hat' type puck which really doesn't do the transport any favours at all unless the puck is relatively new and you have no wearing of that damned black nextel ring...... Incidently, if you look at most draw-loading CD players using that mech or the CDM4/19 (i.e. Marantz/Philips/Rotel players etc) you will see the nextel ring has rarely worn away. The fact that it wears away pretty quickly on the Naim CDI is proof that the disc is vibrating and slipping more than it should using the top hat puck. I agree with Naim's reasons in theory for having the transport designed this way, but in practice it results in advanced wearing of the mech and disc reading errors as time goes on...
At the risk of ramming this down people's throats, a Naim CD5i puck means you can forget ANY nextel ring worries, and disc slippage. It is also lighter than the original top hat puck, and only clamps the disc in three points. The magnetic grip is just right as well. Contrary to what Naim and others might tell you (or WANT you to believe) there is no black magic at work with the top hat puck, and using the Naim CD5i puck will not decrease the sound quality... in my case I'm sure it improved it.
At any rate the puck is the first thing to try - see if you can borrow one from your local dealer. If that makes no difference, then the servo board needs the caps replaced, adjusted pots, and perhaps a new laser...
Cheers,
- John
P.S. Naim WILL probably tell you the whole mech needs replacing, which costs a fortune. That's what they told me. With new caps on the servo board, the pots adjusted and the Naim CD5i puck my Naim CDi is singing away again, and it all cost less than £30!!! I'm sure they will also advise not to use the CD5i puck as well, simply because the Naim CDI was designed to be used with the top hat puck.
symptoms
John,
Thank you for the quick reply. I need to find a good/experienced philips service person now.
.
to double check, here is what my player is doing. Please let me know if it sounds like what you went through.
.
Upon inserting a disc
and clamping it (with a 1 or 2 rubber top hat puck)
the disc will spin about 1 revolution, stutter stop,
and then spin another revolution and then stop. No
overall track number will appear on the display, I
assume this indicates the disc intro data has not been
read. After that I hit play and the disc repeats the
revolution/stutter/revolution and then a ERR message
appears.
.
thanks again.
Tim
John,
Thank you for the quick reply. I need to find a good/experienced philips service person now.
.
to double check, here is what my player is doing. Please let me know if it sounds like what you went through.
.
Upon inserting a disc
and clamping it (with a 1 or 2 rubber top hat puck)
the disc will spin about 1 revolution, stutter stop,
and then spin another revolution and then stop. No
overall track number will appear on the display, I
assume this indicates the disc intro data has not been
read. After that I hit play and the disc repeats the
revolution/stutter/revolution and then a ERR message
appears.
.
thanks again.
Tim
Yup that sounds familiar 
Try inserting a tiny piece of foam into the rubber ring so it gets it's grip back again, and see if that makes a difference... if it does then chances are the laser is OK. You could also try the 'rubber glove cure' as I detailed in the post you gave the address for earlier...
In that case get yourself a Naim CD5i puck and kiss those ERR messages goodbye
If the first step doesn't improve things you definately need that Philips engineer to take a look at things.
Peter: Haven't forgotten your request - I'll be back at my flat in London tomorrow and will dig out the information you need.
Cheers,
- John
Try inserting a tiny piece of foam into the rubber ring so it gets it's grip back again, and see if that makes a difference... if it does then chances are the laser is OK. You could also try the 'rubber glove cure' as I detailed in the post you gave the address for earlier...
In that case get yourself a Naim CD5i puck and kiss those ERR messages goodbye
If the first step doesn't improve things you definately need that Philips engineer to take a look at things.
Peter: Haven't forgotten your request - I'll be back at my flat in London tomorrow and will dig out the information you need.
Cheers,
- John
Alas - only semi-joy...
So last night I replaced the caps on the small board that holds the connections to the CDM unit - including the famed 33 uf cap, i put the CDI together again and...
It works! I can flip to track 10 on a cd that didnt work before! Wow i think! And does it sound better or is it my imagination?
But... as i sit down for a serious listen it seems i am back to squeare on almost. The CD jumps back to the begining of a track sometimes and sometimes loses it entierly and says "Err" on the display.
Sigh...
So I guess it's the laser after all? It seems to work better after just having been switched on, but i am not sure...
So how can I measure the current, and is there any point in adjusting the current up with the trim pots - and which one?
More ideas on donors with the CDM-4/19 laser?
Or could this be a puck issue still? The CD that skipped seemed to be solidly connected to the spindle unlike some thinner cds which seem to be almost not connected at all...
Hard luck since my Valhalla on my LP12 also has gone bad and I am repairing that one too!
Thanks so far for all the help!
So last night I replaced the caps on the small board that holds the connections to the CDM unit - including the famed 33 uf cap, i put the CDI together again and...
It works! I can flip to track 10 on a cd that didnt work before! Wow i think! And does it sound better or is it my imagination?
But... as i sit down for a serious listen it seems i am back to squeare on almost. The CD jumps back to the begining of a track sometimes and sometimes loses it entierly and says "Err" on the display.
Sigh...
So I guess it's the laser after all? It seems to work better after just having been switched on, but i am not sure...
So how can I measure the current, and is there any point in adjusting the current up with the trim pots - and which one?
More ideas on donors with the CDM-4/19 laser?
Or could this be a puck issue still? The CD that skipped seemed to be solidly connected to the spindle unlike some thinner cds which seem to be almost not connected at all...
Hard luck since my Valhalla on my LP12 also has gone bad and I am repairing that one too!
Thanks so far for all the help!
Hi Peter!
I think you're half way home, but don't use your CDI any more as you may damage the laser if the current is too high or something!!!!
To adjust the pots you need a decent digital multimeter, and two or three good quality perfectly clean CDs. The rest I will e-mail to you seperately as it's too complicated to detail here. It's not especially difficult but a bit time consuming.
Cheers - you're almost there!
- John
p.s. at the risk of laboring a point, in the meantime get a Naim CD5i puck...
I think you're half way home, but don't use your CDI any more as you may damage the laser if the current is too high or something!!!!To adjust the pots you need a decent digital multimeter, and two or three good quality perfectly clean CDs. The rest I will e-mail to you seperately as it's too complicated to detail here. It's not especially difficult but a bit time consuming.
Cheers - you're almost there!
- John
p.s. at the risk of laboring a point, in the meantime get a Naim CD5i puck...
include me?
John,
Would it be possible to also get some of your CDI information (any pictures of the boards?, schematics?, detail text). I just got off the phone with NAIM and they won't touch a CDS1. I need to take my unit into a local shop that does Philips and Marantz repairs and give them as much info as I can to fix the unit.
Any help is much appreciated.
thanks
Tim - Seattle, WA
John,
Would it be possible to also get some of your CDI information (any pictures of the boards?, schematics?, detail text). I just got off the phone with NAIM and they won't touch a CDS1. I need to take my unit into a local shop that does Philips and Marantz repairs and give them as much info as I can to fix the unit.
Any help is much appreciated.
thanks
Tim - Seattle, WA
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