I suggest to use an eutectic solder alloy (63sn/37pb or better 62sn/36pb/2ag) for optimal results (it goes directly from solid to fluid).
I use 0.8mm WBT-0820 silver solder 4% for TH and 0.5mm Stannol 62pb/36sn/2ag for SMD.
On Cardas website, apart marketing hype, there is a nice explanation on why it's better to use eutectic solder.
I use 0.8mm WBT-0820 silver solder 4% for TH and 0.5mm Stannol 62pb/36sn/2ag for SMD.
On Cardas website, apart marketing hype, there is a nice explanation on why it's better to use eutectic solder.
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I think a single OT post on parts availability announce is fine but please any further communication should be via PM.
I would suggest as everyone reports sonic impressions after finish building to say also what is the source and speakers used.
I think is important to know if a smartphone or a dedicated DAC is used a a source.
As an example i used once for testing some expensive bookshelf Spendor wich sounded very bad mostly i think because of low sensitivity (under 86db)
I think is important to know if a smartphone or a dedicated DAC is used a a source.
As an example i used once for testing some expensive bookshelf Spendor wich sounded very bad mostly i think because of low sensitivity (under 86db)
Let me remind builders that the system in this link is still active and available. Descriptive text files and music selections can be uploaded. Since no one has used it yet, I'm not sure how many individual folders will be necessary as opposed to the general listings. We can figure that out as we go along.
Please PM me if you are interested in gaining access.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip...n-beta-build-fine-tuning-122.html#post3083601
Please PM me if you are interested in gaining access.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip...n-beta-build-fine-tuning-122.html#post3083601
My heatsinks arrived from heatsink usa yesterday, so now I have almost everything I need to build a working amp! But......I am a little behind on my pre amp build and want to finish it before I get under way on the FE. I also just bought a house so we will be moving at some point in the near future, but fear not I will get started soon.
By the way Bob I think more people will be using the file you set up when their amps are complete. I know I will.
By the way Bob I think more people will be using the file you set up when their amps are complete. I know I will.
Hey Will.
There's another of those corny little truisms like " life is what happens when you are making other plans" and it's "things take time".
They both appear to be accurate and universal.
Glad you are making progress.
I agree the file was established well ahead of the need for it, but hopefully it will prove useful. One more builder joined yesterday so there are three active so far.
I should mention - as there are ten U.S. RC builders I sent a message off to the True Copper folks asking for a quote on a package deal for multiple caps thinking the freight could be split and bring the cost way down. Haven't heard back yet, but if anyone is interested PM me on that also, and I will start a list.
For those across the pond, I did stumble across this link which is the only other place I have seen that caries Audyn.
http://www.diyparadiso.com/price/capa.htm
There's another of those corny little truisms like " life is what happens when you are making other plans" and it's "things take time".
They both appear to be accurate and universal.
Glad you are making progress.I agree the file was established well ahead of the need for it, but hopefully it will prove useful. One more builder joined yesterday so there are three active so far.
I should mention - as there are ten U.S. RC builders I sent a message off to the True Copper folks asking for a quote on a package deal for multiple caps thinking the freight could be split and bring the cost way down. Haven't heard back yet, but if anyone is interested PM me on that also, and I will start a list.
For those across the pond, I did stumble across this link which is the only other place I have seen that caries Audyn.
http://www.diyparadiso.com/price/capa.htm
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Very true Bob! I should say that I am a little behind on the pre but I am making a ton of progress.
Its been a while, unless I missed it recently but what was your plan with the audyn caps? I seem to remember you posting an idea about auditioning them; or are you trying to set up a group buy? Either way I would be interested. I have read great things about them
Its been a while, unless I missed it recently but what was your plan with the audyn caps? I seem to remember you posting an idea about auditioning them; or are you trying to set up a group buy? Either way I would be interested. I have read great things about them
Like all who have tried them, I feel they are the cleanest and most musical of the options tested so far. I have had them installed for months and am very happy with what I hear.
Getting a second pair is a little challenging as the shipping to the U.S. pushes the cost to ~ $97. Yes, if several people are interested in a group buy there should be some significant savings.
I should add that there is no rush to this as hopefully several builders will test alternate caps for that position. If a small number of builders want to start out with the Audyn caps, that could be done much earlier.
The request I made was for 20 pieces for the best price. Though everyone probably won't use the TrueCoppers, it might be a good idea to get a little back stock here in the U.S.
Remember, they are great for the earlier MyRef versions also.
Getting a second pair is a little challenging as the shipping to the U.S. pushes the cost to ~ $97. Yes, if several people are interested in a group buy there should be some significant savings.
I should add that there is no rush to this as hopefully several builders will test alternate caps for that position. If a small number of builders want to start out with the Audyn caps, that could be done much earlier.
The request I made was for 20 pieces for the best price. Though everyone probably won't use the TrueCoppers, it might be a good idea to get a little back stock here in the U.S.
Remember, they are great for the earlier MyRef versions also.
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Well finally - we used one with the Bomac Tower project more than 20 years ago and it's been in storage ever since. I knew this day would come.
Can you give a deeper description of why it is needed. I did trim mine about half way (they still stand off the board) but I just soldered them to the fastons.
Can you give a deeper description of why it is needed. I did trim mine about half way (they still stand off the board) but I just soldered them to the fastons.
It's needed because True Copper's leads are litz cables (each conductor is individually insulated) so, after trimming to the right lenght, they should be tinned with the solder pot.
It's the only 'clean' way to remove insulation.
IMHO, you can't simply solder them without the solder pot...
To burn the insulation you'll need circa 400°C and you should do it for each individual wire... a PITA... and with no guarantee of success.
Since you're going to organize a small GB for TCs I would add to the costs to be shared a cheap solder pot like the one I've linked.
I have read a tutorial in the past about the cardass wire and how to remove the insulation on the conductors. If I remember correctly you simply burn the insulation off the end where you are going to solder using a small (SMALL) torch or butane lighter. It has to get hot fast. When the insulation stops bubbling it is gone. My only worry would be transferring heat to the cap itself. Also since the wire is insulated heatsinking may not be effective. The solder pot may also transfer a great deal of heat because the ends of the wire would have to be in there for a while at low temps to burn off the coating. What does the manufacturer recommend?
The leads, trimmed to the right lenght, are circa 2cm.
It's possible to solder litz wire with a simple soldering iron as we can see on this video but, IMHO it would overheat the capacitor.
Even using the pot, set at circa 400°C with an immersion time of circa 4-5 seconds the cap heated a lot.
Some directions on soldering litz wire from Cardas website:
Soldering Litz Conductors
Q.) I'll be using a lot of your 21.5 gauge hookup wire for a project and I'm wondering about the best way to remove the litz coating before soldering. I am told that you use an acid, which would probably work best for me. If so, can you tell me what that acid is, and at what strength you use it?
A.) Do not use acid of any type! Do not try to burn off the insulation with a flame! There are several things that you can do: We have a termination kit that will work for a project or if you are going into production we can put a faster method together. If you want to try it yourself here are some of the ways you can do it.
We have small pots and termination kits available or you can hunt down an Essico model 20 if you want something real nice. I suggest using our 63-37 ultra pure in the pots and our Quadeutectic solder for your soldering process. - George
It's possible to solder litz wire with a simple soldering iron as we can see on this video but, IMHO it would overheat the capacitor.
Even using the pot, set at circa 400°C with an immersion time of circa 4-5 seconds the cap heated a lot.
Some directions on soldering litz wire from Cardas website:
Soldering Litz Conductors
Q.) I'll be using a lot of your 21.5 gauge hookup wire for a project and I'm wondering about the best way to remove the litz coating before soldering. I am told that you use an acid, which would probably work best for me. If so, can you tell me what that acid is, and at what strength you use it?
A.) Do not use acid of any type! Do not try to burn off the insulation with a flame! There are several things that you can do: We have a termination kit that will work for a project or if you are going into production we can put a faster method together. If you want to try it yourself here are some of the ways you can do it.
- Use a solder pot (best, easiest and most reliable)
- Sand off (220-320-grit wet or dry unravel strand and lay flat on table, a couple of strokes on each side) the insulation and use a little rosin flux on the wire. With a good 900 degree Fahrenheit (482 degrees Celsius) tip on a 100 watt iron you can pre-tin the wire.
- Twist a little piece of unenamled wire around the litz such as a resistor lead and solder normally using using some rosin flux (such as Kester sp88). Heat the bare copper wire you have wound around the litz and add solder and rosin flux until you see the litz suck up the solder.
- If the wire is to be soldered to a pc board, placed through an eyelet, crimped in a spade or other connector or otherwise surrounded by solder. In a closed loop you can solder it by just putting a little rosin flux on the wire as you twist the strands after stripping. On the surrounding piece of metal heat the metal or the very tip of the Cardas litz and watch for the smoke of the coating coming off and the tinning of the wire near the surrounding metal.
- You can pre tin the wire by applying some rosin flux during the striping operation and heating the very tip of the wire in a pool of solder on the tip (850-900 degrees F) of a 100w Iron.
- You can get a large iron with a hot tip and dimple the tip so that it will hold a little solder and use it for a solder pot.
We have small pots and termination kits available or you can hunt down an Essico model 20 if you want something real nice. I suggest using our 63-37 ultra pure in the pots and our Quadeutectic solder for your soldering process. - George
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