My_Ref Fremen Edition - Build thread and tutorial

R39 is no more. Conformal coating done.

Well done :)

Never heard of conformal coating before your previous post... how it is useful for audio in a domestic environment?

Errata corridge...
On mouser C30 cap is finished, so I should wait until August for backorder :mad:

So I removed C12, C30, C32 and I ordered 2 projects on mouser.

Now I have to buy that caps from another vendor or.... I have to buy Amtrans AMCH caps :confused:

For this problem you should have posted here before ordering...

The FKP2 1000pF is available from Mouser with different tolerance and/or voltage rating.

It's better to order 2.5% ones because they have copper leads vs steel of 5% and 10% and 100V ones because they sound better (more neutral) than 63V ones.

But doing a brief search in this moment Mouser has available the 250V 2.5% one which have identical dimensions according datasheet and at a good price too...

http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF2CPLAojp4yWL3lAVOvMbzc=

Since now it's too late the best thing you can do is to upgrade to Amtrans... ;)

You will not regret it, guaranteed.
 
It's better to order 2.5% ones because they have copper leads vs steel of 5% and 10% and 100V ones because they sound better (more neutral) than 63V ones.

All Wima FKP's have non-magnetic leads, which is definitely a good characteristic for quality of sound. Close tolerance parts are merely those selected from a particular manufacturing batch that fall within the tolerance. There is no difference in materials or manufacturing methods.

As far as a 100V sounding better than a 63V, well that's probably an easy call for anyone who can tell which direction passive parts should go in a circuit.

Peace,
Tom E
 
All Wima FKP's have non-magnetic leads, which is definitely a good characteristic for quality of sound.

Magic!

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As far as a 100V sounding better than a 63V, well that's probably an easy call for anyone who can tell which direction passive parts should go in a circuit.

Hi Tom,

Unless I'm misunderstanding... It's quite surprising reading such a comment from you...

It's a known fact, among who believes in sound difference between different parts, that higher voltage rating caps usually sound better.

And in case of FKP2 it's so, just try for yourself.
 

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Magic, or superglue, or fake?

Much simpler... magnetic leads.

While all 2.5% FPK2 have copper leads, the 5% and 10% parts could be shipped with steel leads or copper leads, quite all the ones I've bought in last 5 years from Mouser and/or RS Components have steel leads.

You can be a magician too... just try with a recent 5% FKP2 ;)
 
I just tested all my FKP's and found none to be magnetic. They are all 100V, some are 5%, some are 2.5%. There is no data sheet that specifies different materials between 63V and 100V, or for different tolerances. It's impossible for me to believe WIMA would make different construction for different tolerances; it makes no sense, and no company that I know of does it that way. Perhaps for 63V, but I find even that very difficult to believe. What could be gained? In fact, I don't even see a 63V 1nf available from Mouser, although it is listed on the WIMA data sheet.

MKP is another story. I believe they all have magnetic leads, and sound like it.

One question, then. Why would you call out a part on the BOM (63V) when a part that you know sounds better (100V) is more readily available for just a few more cents? Whether one can hear the difference between a 63V film cap and 100V of the same construction is doubtful, despite what you have read on the internet. (So much for objectivity!) However, the difference between a part with magnetic leads and non-magnetic should be discernible, so why specify the magnetic one?

Peace,
Tom E
 
I just tested all my FKP's and found none to be magnetic. They are all 100V, some are 5%, some are 2.5%. There is no data sheet that specifies different materials between 63V and 100V, or for different tolerances. It's impossible for me to believe WIMA would make different construction for different tolerances; it makes no sense, and no company that I know of does it that way.

Hi Tom,

I don't know when you bought them but most of 5% FKP2s I have (bought from Mouser and RS Components) have magnetic leads.

I can post a video on you tube...

One question, then. Why would you call out a part on the BOM (63V) when a part that you know sounds better (100V) is more readily available for just a few more cents?

All FKP2s in BOM are 100V 2.5%....

However, the difference between a part with magnetic leads and non-magnetic should be discernible, so why specify the magnetic one?

As already wrote... I didn't!
 
I don't know when you bought them but most of 5% FKP2s I have (bought from Mouser and RS Components) have magnetic leads.

All FKP2s in BOM are 100V 2.5%....

I don't know how old my caps are. Couple years? Then WIMA is cheapening their parts. Sad to learn that. The 2.5% tolerance parts might be older stock, and eventually they will run out of them. It is absurd to believe WIMA makes two different FKP's for different tolerances.

Glad to know the better parts are in the BOM. I should not have doubted your thoroughness. What was all that fuss about not being able to get 63V parts? Why would anyone want to order 63V instead of the recommended value? Because of that post, I made the assumption that's what was in the BOM without checking the latest revision. Sorry.

No, I don't require a video. I would like to learn from WIMA why they changed lead material.

Peace,
Tom E
 
I don't know how old my caps are. Couple years? Then WIMA is cheapening their parts. Sad to learn that. The 2.5% tolerance parts might be older stock, and eventually they will run out of them. It is absurd to believe WIMA makes two different FKP's for different tolerances.

Hi Tom,

not all 5% are magnetic, from Mouser sometime you receive steel leads, sometime copper, no guarantees.

From RS Components and Distrelec always received magnetic parts (they stock 5% only).

I've first noted this difference at My_Ref Premium BOM times so we're talking about 5 years ago and Mouser re-plenished its stock several times.

Nothing changed, so I don't think 2.5% FKPs will become magnetic too.

It's not so absurd... from Wima's point of view, IMHO, if you need 5% or 10% precision steel leads will not harm that much and BTW they will be used in contexts where the added strenght could be useful, when you need precision 2.5%-1% copper leads are a significant improvement and still used.

Prices reflect that IMHO.

Another example are DALE CMF-55 which could be magnetic or not magnetic, it depends on how they're ordered.

Glad to know the better parts are in the BOM. I should not have doubted your thoroughness. What was all that fuss about not being able to get 63V parts? Why would anyone want to order 63V instead of the recommended value? Because of that post, I made the assumption that's what was in the BOM without checking the latest revision. Sorry.

No problem, the important thing is to understand each other ;)

The part in BOM was not available so I was trying to explain how to select alternates, starting from what should be avoided.

It seems that I should have explained better :D

No, I don't require a video. I would like to learn from WIMA why they changed lead material.

Thanks for trust :)

I guess we should ask Wima but most likely explanation is related to cost and physical strenght in the context I've previously outlined in this post.
 
Which resistor is better for R12, Vishay Dale RN55 or Susumu RG? Z-Foils are very expensive... :(

I know but don't worry, use the RN55 in BOM, it will sound gorgeous. :)

RN55 have a level of detail not too distant from Z-Foils, the main difference is balance, RN55 are a bit warmer.

I want to remark that if budget doesn't allow that doesn't mean that the amp wil sound bad, on the contrary the Mouser BOM + Cerafines will sound gorgeous ad it will be a REAL My_Ref FE, upgrades to reach the full BOM will refine that sound.

This last Mouser BOM is MUCH improved over previous ones.
 
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Small update about my soldering querelle. It seems that my cheap soldering iron (lafayette zd-98, on paper 117°C-482°C) needs to be at least on 3/4 of power to melt decently the silver solder, and I have to heat the component for 2/3 secs (damn, a lot to me!). So I reworked some joins and got the nice though hole bubble. Well, not on all points, but on the last two resistors I got it "live". Thanks for supporting on this too! :)