This evening I've removed almost all sockets apart C9 and R12 ones and soldered parts.
This build is incredible... scaring sometime... never heard such a level of detail, good detail, not thrown in your face but integrated with music, layered, lifelike.
Voices are so real, tangible.
Very strong timing and I've never been able to understand so well pronunciation from songs in english.
Timbre is so balanced that you can enjoy also most of the bad recordings, I'm rediscovering my music collection
It's possible that at this point the bottleneck is the Mundorf Supreme in C13, from this level of upgrade I could agree with Tom (Madisonears)
This build is incredible... scaring sometime... never heard such a level of detail, good detail, not thrown in your face but integrated with music, layered, lifelike.
Voices are so real, tangible.
Very strong timing and I've never been able to understand so well pronunciation from songs in english.
Timbre is so balanced that you can enjoy also most of the bad recordings, I'm rediscovering my music collection
It's possible that at this point the bottleneck is the Mundorf Supreme in C13, from this level of upgrade I could agree with Tom (Madisonears)
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I might try this mod but i'll need to buy a second soldering iron so i can remove the smd resistors. Been there years ago when i did smd assembly work and it's the best way i found, heat both ends at the same time and flick it off, clean up pads. Job done. Everything else i tried either didn't work or caused damage. My old iron is probably on it's last legs anyway, been using it for about 25 years
I use Rev A mod since 2013, guess what?
Rev A mod has no C10 and R39 and R3 is 0.33R instead of 0.47R.
It's a different compensation Penasa made for the My_Evo (Evolution) that is compatible with the Fremen Edition.
ahaha, you made me recheck my ordered parts... and gosh, I got the ones from the FE "vanilla". Luckily I ordered parts just for one side... So I spare 1 Caddock now!
ahaha, you made me recheck my ordered parts... and gosh, I got the ones from the FE "vanilla". Luckily I ordered parts just for one side... So I spare 1 Caddock now!
It's not a night and day difference, also the official FE compensation sounds very very good.
Sorry, but for me it's not clear what does it means...
It's possible that at this point the bottleneck is the Mundorf Supreme in C13, from this level of upgrade I could agree with Tom (Madisonears)
But this cap is not in the official BOM. This sentence is valid also for standard BOM cap?
This build is incredible... scaring sometime... never heard such a level of detail, good detail, not thrown in your face but integrated with music, layered, lifelike.
Voices are so real, tangible.
Very strong timing and I've never been able to understand so well pronunciation from songs in english.
Timbre is so balanced that you can enjoy also most of the bad recordings, I'm rediscovering my music collection
What I have to do to have the same configuration?
To be able to rapidly and safely switch between different parts under evaluation I use sockets:
Yes, it is, in the 'Suggested best part' column:
In the same file there are in practice two BOMs, the official one is under the 'Suggested best part' column while there's also an 'industrial BOM' which can be ordered entirely from Mouser.
The two BOMs are identical except for a few parts which are not available from Mouser and that must be purchased elsewhere (Parts Connexion, HiFi Collective, Sonicraft, eBay, etc.).
A My_Ref Fremen Edition built using the plain Mouser BOM will perform and sound great and a lot of builders will be fully satisfied.
But, if you believe that different parts could sound differently, to exploit the full potential of the amp the 'Suggested best parts' column should be taken in account.
Using the 'Suggested best part' column AKA making all or at least part of the parts upgrades
But rest assured that the instrial BOM with added Cerafines will give you almost the same performance level, but to a lesser extent.
My suggestion is always to start with the industrial BOM+Cerafines.
Then, if you like what you hear, the timbre, the way it presents music follow the upgrades path according your budget, you will have the same sound with increasing detail and balance as the various upgrades are implemented.
Attachments
To be able to rapidly and safely switch between different parts under evaluation I use sockets:
Ahhh ok, now it's more clear.
Yes, it is, in the 'Suggested best part' column:
In the same file there are in practice two BOMs, the official one is under the 'Suggested best part' column while there's also an 'industrial BOM' which can be ordered entirely from Mouser.
The two BOMs are identical except for a few parts which are not available from Mouser and that must be purchased elsewhere (Parts Connexion, HiFi Collective, Sonicraft, eBay, etc.).
Yes this part was clear for me. I'm referring to industrial bom, so for me Mundorf is not present...
What is not clear for me is that if mundorf supreme is the suggested part but it is a bottleneck, is it better to use the industrial cap?
A My_Ref Fremen Edition built using the plain Mouser BOM will perform and sound great and a lot of builders will be fully satisfied.
But, if you believe that different parts could sound differently, to exploit the full potential of the amp the 'Suggested best parts' column should be taken in account.
Using the 'Suggested best part' column AKA making all or at least part of the parts upgrades
But rest assured that the instrial BOM with added Cerafines will give you almost the same performance level, but to a lesser extent.
My suggestion is always to start with the industrial BOM+Cerafines.
Then, if you like what you hear, the timbre, the way it presents music follow the upgrades path according your budget, you will have the same sound with increasing detail and balance as the various upgrades are implemented.
Ok this is my understanding... I will buy mouser industrial BOM without C9 and I already bought the cerafinecap.
In the future, if I win the lottery I will buy other components
Fine
But my comments were referred to the official full BOM, where the Supreme is present.
What I've said is that the Supreme could be a bottleneck after all upgrades are applied.
But in part I was joking.
Nevertheless the Supreme is superior to the CDE940C.
Ok this is my understanding... I will buy mouser industrial BOM without C9 and I already bought the cerafinecap.
In the future, if I win the lottery I will buy other components
Exactly
Well, I think I'll continue with the FE "vanilla"... for now
just cause I feel unconfortable desoldering your state-of-the-art joins on SMD.Today I started the first PCB (I'm buying parts for one PCB at time so I can get something in itinere keeping the free shipping.):
Do you see any orientation mistake? Hope not... I couldn't get to do so the side-by-side soldering "bubble", still dunno why. Anyway I checked all the joints and are OK.
BTW, I've used a silver based solder for the RN55s (got it from eBay a few time ago), but I got the ugliest joints I've ever done:
. Cosmetical mistake, transistors' height is not the same:
Well, for now... I'll wait for ZFoils from HFC and Cerafine from eBay. I plan to reach the Audiophile BOM...
BTW: I've seen the IN has gold plated pins. Should I look for gold plated faston headers too, for out?
You must post bigger pics for this...
To obtain side-by-side soldering with ROHS solder often you have to add flux and an high enough temperature (not less than 340-350°C)
Pads on planes will never get hot enough, anyway.
Probably you used a too low temperature...or possibly a not good enough solder
.
Fine
The fastons on BOM are very good quality ones but if you prefer you can order gold plated ones... I did.
Here it is:
Clicking on image should open this one.
Maybe both, that silver solder looks like needing higher temperature, and my iron is cheap one. I'm quite satisfied anyway, all pads are filled - just didn't get side by side. They are just.. opaque!
I'll look for them on the next order!
just a double pair won't be so expensive.
Seems good.
Maybe both, that silver solder looks like needing higher temperature, and my iron is cheap one. I'm quite satisfied anyway, all pads are filled - just didn't get side by side. They are just.. opaque!
ROHS solder often is opaque, it will look better after thorough cleaning.
The solder I've used for SMD parts is this one:
https://it.rs-online.com/web/p/saldatori/7568884/
And the final finish after soldering is pretty shiny for a ROHS one.
It's a strange beast, though... it melts quickly when you apply it but if you reheat it later it's pretty hard to melt.
I'll look for them on the next order!
I usually use these (I like shiny gold
):10x Flachsteckhuelsen dorato 6,3mm per cavo 2, 5qmm piatta push on oro placcato | eBay
Seems good.
ROHS solder often is opaque, it will look better after thorough cleaning.
The solder I've used for SMD parts is this one:
https://it.rs-online.com/web/p/saldatori/7568884/
And the final finish after soldering is pretty shiny for a ROHS one.
It's a strange beast, though... it melts quickly when you apply it but if you reheat it later it's pretty hard to melt.
I usually use these (I like shiny gold
10x Flachsteckhuelsen dorato 6,3mm per cavo 2, 5qmm piatta push on oro placcato | eBay
Uhm... I'll try it in the side project (ApA Multiplo) to get in hand with it. I used it only for cables, so... That's why I'm so new with it. Thanks for you advice!
Btw... Any male PCB Gold plated fastons? Never used it for signal, so... It's another noob question! [emoji14]
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Wait a moment... fastons are to be used on faston tabs...
On the Molex 2 pin goldplated input connectors you must use the mating connector, it's in BOM along with its crimp terminals:
http://eu.mouser.com/Search/Product...816virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-08-65-0816
http://eu.mouser.com/Search/Product...023virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-10-11-2023
Did you buy them?
Attachments
Attach your pics. Please.Here it is:
Clicking on image should open this one.
Maybe both, that silver solder looks like needing higher temperature, and my iron is cheap one. I'm quite satisfied anyway, all pads are filled - just didn't get side by side. They are just.. opaque!
I'll look for them on the next order!
Sure I did. When I asked "Should I look for gold plated faston headers too, for out?" I meant the PCB faston - since I have gold plated (molex) IN, I thought to have same for OUT.
Next time I'll do!
Fine
ggerla said:Ok this is my understanding... I will buy mouser industrial BOM without C9 and I already bought the cerafinecap.
In the future, if I win the lottery I will buy other components
Exactly
Errata corridge...
On mouser C30 cap is finished, so I should wait until August for backorder
So I removed C12, C30, C32 and I ordered 2 projects on mouser.
Now I have to buy that caps from another vendor or.... I have to buy Amtrans AMCH caps
Errata corridge...
On mouser C30 cap is finished, so I should wait until August for backorder
So I removed C12, C30, C32 and I ordered 2 projects on mouser.
Now I have to buy that caps from another vendor or.... I have to buy Amtrans AMCH caps
That's exactly what I did (well, not exactly, I ordered 1 project to split the orders) I left out C12, C30, C32 - plus C9, C13 and R12 .
I you are in my area, I'm ordering from HFC this week - had to delay a bit wondering about some new solder - so we can split shipping fees.