I hope it was more exciting than watching tennis .....
Thank you...because of this thread i am creating my first DIY speaker....thank you for this thread..also because of you i bought a 2 pair of full range speaker and i will dipole these speaker with active crossover....
Wish me luck on this...
V
Yes I am....
That recommendation is based on the fact that the frequency response below approx 1 kHz varies with distance. When the driver is used with a large baffle or in a closed box, the overall response is flattest at some distance. At shorter distance, there will be an increase in level below 1 kHz.
But I have EQ so I can do whatever I want.....
I am wondering if you have been tempted to change anything since February 25th, or are you still loving it?
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I have the space for large H-baffles, so I chose the simplest route.....
Anyway, I wanted line sources with the same height as my 2 meter tall RD-75 ribbons.
Without any actual experience, I do have a feeling that H-baffles can cover a wider frequency range than W-baffles, or Ripoles. My H-baffles cover 20-200 Hz.
Anyway, I wanted line sources with the same height as my 2 meter tall RD-75 ribbons.
Without any actual experience, I do have a feeling that H-baffles can cover a wider frequency range than W-baffles, or Ripoles. My H-baffles cover 20-200 Hz.
Stig, does the H-baffle have any advantage compared to an U-baffle?
From listening position the distance to rear of the speaker should be the same for U- and H-baffles. I guess the load at front of speaker is larger with H-baffle, giving a lower resonance frequency. And also the sound-waves that hit the front wall should also be different between the two.
I would believe that lowering the resonance frequency would be desired. But that could be achieved by simply adding mass to the speaker cone.
From listening position the distance to rear of the speaker should be the same for U- and H-baffles. I guess the load at front of speaker is larger with H-baffle, giving a lower resonance frequency. And also the sound-waves that hit the front wall should also be different between the two.
I would believe that lowering the resonance frequency would be desired. But that could be achieved by simply adding mass to the speaker cone.
My H-baffles reduce Fs from 33 to 25 Hz because of the air loading. That is low enough I think.
The main advantage of H-baffles is that they don't pressurize the room, since front and rear radiation is symmetric and out of phase. The sum of front and rear radiation is zero pressure.
The advantage of U-baffles is higher efficiency, at the cost of less symmetric front/rear radiation.
The main advantage of H-baffles is that they don't pressurize the room, since front and rear radiation is symmetric and out of phase. The sum of front and rear radiation is zero pressure.
The advantage of U-baffles is higher efficiency, at the cost of less symmetric front/rear radiation.
Wonderfull Thanks Stig, that makes sense. I guess your 25Hz are more realistic thant what is provided from the Home-speaker sales department.
One more question, if you don't mind: Besides from the Fs, isn't there a resonance in each cavity of the H? As a function of the depth of the cavity. Do you tune this frequency to be at x-over frequency? Or anything else, or is it unimportant?
An other way to put this: would an H-baffle be feasible if you want the bass speakers to cover a larger frequency range? For instance up to 600-800Hz to be crossed over to a horn.
Thanks Stig, that makes sense. I guess your 25Hz are more realistic thant what is provided from the Home-speaker sales department. One more question, if you don't mind: Besides from the Fs, isn't there a resonance in each cavity of the H? As a function of the depth of the cavity. Do you tune this frequency to be at x-over frequency? Or anything else, or is it unimportant?
An other way to put this: would an H-baffle be feasible if you want the bass speakers to cover a larger frequency range? For instance up to 600-800Hz to be crossed over to a horn.
All dipoles have an upper frequency limit where they no longer behave any good; the dipole peak. XO should be at or below the dipole peak if you want good polar pattern and frequency response. The peak is where the front and rear radiation sum in-phase, and is determined be the front-rear distance.
There is no "resonance" in the H-baffle itself, just a response peak (the dipole peak actually). The peak is more pronounced with a H-baffle than with a flat baffle.
A dipole covering up to 6-800 Hz would need to be small, and not at all suited for bass.... you should prepare for a 3-way.
There is no "resonance" in the H-baffle itself, just a response peak (the dipole peak actually). The peak is more pronounced with a H-baffle than with a flat baffle.
A dipole covering up to 6-800 Hz would need to be small, and not at all suited for bass.... you should prepare for a 3-way.
Large H-baffles
Hi Stigerik
Does those hughes H-baffles you are using not disturb the stereo image.
I remember When I had my old big screen TV and the rest of my stereo standing on a rack in between my loudspeakers.
When I removed the rack the depth of the stereo image changed dramaticly.
And as you say youself those two subs are 2 meters high and at least 55 cm width and fill up a lot off space between you B&G's.
Have you made any experiments with that?
Best regards
Uwe
Hi Stigerik
Does those hughes H-baffles you are using not disturb the stereo image.
I remember When I had my old big screen TV and the rest of my stereo standing on a rack in between my loudspeakers.
When I removed the rack the depth of the stereo image changed dramaticly.
And as you say youself those two subs are 2 meters high and at least 55 cm width and fill up a lot off space between you B&G's.
Have you made any experiments with that?
Best regards
Uwe
Actually they do no disturb the stereo image. The RD-75 ribbons are dipoles, and at 180 degrees off-axis there is very little sound. The woofer towers are place at that angle for a good reason. I have no audible reflections coming from the woofer towers, so there is no disturbance either.
If you use a faily wide baffle, the smaller RD40 and RD50 should have no problems with crossover around 200 Hz. The downside with the smaller versions is that they are not line-source as low at the RD-75. That means that their low-end frequency response will drop off more at distance than the larger RD-75. This can be compensated to a certain degree by using a wider baffle.
I have never tested the smaller versions, but I assume they sound more or less the same.
I have never tested the smaller versions, but I assume they sound more or less the same.
Hello Stig-Erik!
This thread is, as everyone alse has already pointet out, amazing. Very educating.
I´m contemplating a 2 way array, with additional bass augmentation. Wide band drivers for the low mid-mid and planar/ribbons for low treble and up. Have been eying the longer newform ribbons which can work as an ok line source from lower treble and up.
But, going for the RD75 would give me more headroom regarding crossover points and slopes.
Knowing that this is a long shot I would still want to ask you - do you have any comments of preferences for this application?
Regards
Pontus
This thread is, as everyone alse has already pointet out, amazing. Very educating.
I´m contemplating a 2 way array, with additional bass augmentation. Wide band drivers for the low mid-mid and planar/ribbons for low treble and up. Have been eying the longer newform ribbons which can work as an ok line source from lower treble and up.
But, going for the RD75 would give me more headroom regarding crossover points and slopes.
Knowing that this is a long shot I would still want to ask you - do you have any comments of preferences for this application?
Regards
Pontus
Hey stig,
nice speakers you build over the years, i see you have first hand ex whit sears excel series.
i was mulling over the idea to use a sears 8" or 2 6.5" w18/w22
together whit a Beyma 12P80Nd or a another 12"/15" Beyma, and a compression tweeter like the b&c DE250
inside the speaker design like the inconcert mills,
Maby whit the Beyma in it own sealed section of a tower speaker, whit a few ports, maby even sealed dono yet.
have you ever tryed something like that?
i will mostly use thise for 3x front for movies.
Thanks
nice speakers you build over the years, i see you have first hand ex whit sears excel series.
i was mulling over the idea to use a sears 8" or 2 6.5" w18/w22
together whit a Beyma 12P80Nd or a another 12"/15" Beyma, and a compression tweeter like the b&c DE250
inside the speaker design like the inconcert mills,
Maby whit the Beyma in it own sealed section of a tower speaker, whit a few ports, maby even sealed dono yet.
have you ever tryed something like that?
i will mostly use thise for 3x front for movies.
Thanks
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