My 'Moon-Onken'

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I like the idea of pipes. You wouldn't believe it, but I was thinking about this today when I was in Home Depot. I was looking for small bore tubes for a pipe Onken. I found copper pope coil, with a size of 1/4" and quite some length and not that expensive. I was thinking that 1/4 inch was about the right size.

Any photos or details on the original pipe Onken ?
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
GM said:
while the more resistive vents that rely on friction and/or damping that Dave prefers does the opposite in that it reduces vent efficiency, so an apples n' oranges comparison with each having its own merits/trade-offs.

Indeed. In these designs i only borrowed the configuration of the vents in an Onken. Primarily because they give an inherently self-braced side-wall and can be configured with a high aspect ratio.

dave
 
Re: Re: Re: JX92S?

Bigun said:



are you referring to the matter of single vs multiple subs (interaction with room modes etc.) ? - if so then wouldn't you still be better off with a separate sub with the flexibility of placing it independently from the main speakers ?


Yes, and probably yes, but in the spirit of compromise and aesthetics, as well as when XO frequencies as high at the Tysen, the single enclosure per channel has its advantages



boudy said:



Yes I already have them and like them better than most other FR's I've heard to date. I have 120A's in my desktop OBs and enjoy them as well, but otherwise I'm not a Fostex fan.

I know that the specifics of the design have to change to accommodate different drivers, I'm wondering if the general approach is feasible.

Anyone have an Onken calculator handy?

Fair enough - Based on my rather underwhelming experience with newer production JX92s, if Fostex was off the table, I'd probably opt for the CSS FR125 over the Jordan for this enclosure. After all it was this driver for which the enclosure was originally designed, and certainly works very well (I just happen to prefer the FE127E and even more so the F120A)

As to the efficacy of Onken calculator, if he has not already mentioned it in this thread, Dave could explain how he went about using a different method of achieving the Fonken design.

Bigun said:

Now having said that, the other guys (Dave, Chris etc.) have forgotten more about Onken design than I've learned...

Well, it's fair to say that I have more experience building multiples of various members of the Fonken family than most folks, and living with several for extended periods, so my "insights" would be based on a combination of production aspects and performance characteristics. In the former regard, Dave & I would consult on certain design features. Still, I've never been one to allow my paucity of understanding of any subject limit my bloviation on same (just ask my family)
 
Well I bought some more Birch plywood ready for the next 3 MoonOnkens (front HT speakers). I thought I'd treat me circular saw to a new blade. It still had the original 24 tooth blade from when I bought it a decade ago. I'm thinking that a new Oldham (since 1857) 40 tooth blade will give me a better cutting edge. Unfortunately before I had even tightened up the bolt to hold it into the saw one of the (made in china) tungsten teeth promptly split into two and half fell out onto the bench :bawling:
 
Cool! Glad they did the right thing, you could have been seriously injured. I started to wisecrack about Oldham quality since I got 'burned' back in the mid '90s with losing teeth like typically happened to folks in 1857. The replacements all burned up pretty quick to boot. A pity nothing's apparently changed.

I wonder if Meyer is still selling to the public as I need all new blades and was underwhelmed at what's available at HD, Lowe's and Sears today.

GM
 
Progress - must be the good weather, was able to do the messy routing on my deck in the back garden (still a little chilly out). These next three Moon Onken's have gone a little easier being second time around. Dimensions are more accurate, the brace is an interference fit and I couldn't resist creating the 'moon caters' on the inside walls of the side-panels. They could have been routed on the outside, would have been quite a decorative feature !
 

Attachments

  • dscn1827_f.jpg
    dscn1827_f.jpg
    91.8 KB · Views: 1,211
They do get easier; by around the 10 or 12th pair, you'll be seeing them in your sleep .

If you use a front mounted threaded insert fittings rather than rear mounted T-nuts, you could route all 360 deg of the driver back chamfer. I happen to use an M4 x10mm steel threaded insert from Hafele, which requires an 8mm pilot hole.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.