i always thought, most of the point behind having a watch like a patek phillipe was just to be able to have a patek phillipe, i.e. status. if you want to know the precise and accurate time, all you need is something that calibrates to the atomic clock, to a desired degree of precision. if you want a patek phillipe, well you have to get a patek phillipe. a knockoff is just a knockoff. it's the distinction between aesthetics and tradition, or perhaps said another way, between fashion and style.
dunno what that gets us in terms of the whole GC/chronograph analogy though.
/andrew
dunno what that gets us in terms of the whole GC/chronograph analogy though.
/andrew
faustian bargin said:
The name comes from Yoshi of Sakura Systems. After my first amp attempt and the whole controvercy on AA, Yoshi motivated me to create my own and unique amp, and not simply a copy of a GainCard. He also compared Gaincard to Rolex and suggested that if I want to create my own and unique design (which would improve on GainCard) it could be compared to Patek. So here it is
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22407
A marine crono is accurate to within fractions of a second over 1 year. I bought it and had it calibrated so i could use a sextant for marine navagation. The sextant became an interesting conversation piece as using the thing is a combo of black art and good luck.I shot the posiion once off the coast of florida and calculated i was in the middle of alabama.Gotta hand it to the old time mariners.
ron
ron
hello all,
Damn that patek looks good!
(Apart from the sound) I think it's easier (and way cheaper) to build an enclosure like this than anything that has to do with full metal cases.
Oh btw, I think I just found a flaw in my design. Because of the cold (and thus dry) weather there's lots of static in the air. I walked to my computer, sat down, e-talked to someone for about 5 minutes, walked back to the amp, picked it up and CLICK. Static discharge to the case (which is grounded to star ground) and no more left channel. Bummer.
I think there might have been a spark between the copper heatsink (which touches the case) and the tiny little copper thingies on top of the lm3875tf.
I think I'll insulate the whole case from star ground and use a separate ground return to the PSU. My power connector has 4 wires of which i only use three at the moment.
Ron: i'm a pretty fanatical sailor but i'm too young to be from the pre-gps era although I do know how to use a sextant (which are horrible devices btw). What watch are you using? Not that it matters too much, you'll probably make more errors shooting angles than errors in timing...
Damn that patek looks good!
(Apart from the sound) I think it's easier (and way cheaper) to build an enclosure like this than anything that has to do with full metal cases.
Oh btw, I think I just found a flaw in my design. Because of the cold (and thus dry) weather there's lots of static in the air. I walked to my computer, sat down, e-talked to someone for about 5 minutes, walked back to the amp, picked it up and CLICK. Static discharge to the case (which is grounded to star ground) and no more left channel. Bummer.
I think there might have been a spark between the copper heatsink (which touches the case) and the tiny little copper thingies on top of the lm3875tf.
I think I'll insulate the whole case from star ground and use a separate ground return to the PSU. My power connector has 4 wires of which i only use three at the moment.
Ron: i'm a pretty fanatical sailor but i'm too young to be from the pre-gps era although I do know how to use a sextant (which are horrible devices btw). What watch are you using? Not that it matters too much, you'll probably make more errors shooting angles than errors in timing...
I also noticed that I have quite a lot static discharge on a chassis. But it doesn't break the chip. The chassis is connected to input RCAs (which are simply not isolated). I did it this way as the Kimbers I'm using were too short to apply insulating washers.
BTW, the watch I'm using is pretty accurate too (only half a second over a year)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=231021#post231021
BTW, the watch I'm using is pretty accurate too (only half a second over a year)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=231021#post231021
i have finally finished the psu case...
things to do: replace the bridge rectifiers with mur860's which i, in the end, prefer over the standard ones; put in a impuls relay to make the switch on button work. It's a nice button but it'd be even better when it actually did something. And, of course, put in one led per toroid...
things to do: replace the bridge rectifiers with mur860's which i, in the end, prefer over the standard ones; put in a impuls relay to make the switch on button work. It's a nice button but it'd be even better when it actually did something. And, of course, put in one led per toroid...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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