I have news in regards to what will be running these speakers upon completion....
It's been 13 years since I've seen it; but my mom reminded me of dad's old stereo that she got in the divorce when I was 3 years old. I decided to take a look at it.
I'm glad that I did. This is what I found.
Kenwood KA7100
It sound very nice at the moment. I'm listening to it on my HSU Research HB-1 bookshelf speakers and it's great. More power than I need but an impressive unit all around. I think I might need to clean it up a bit but it's really surprising me right now. It's like back to the future; 1978 style!
Using this to power my new frugal horns....good idea or bad idea?
It's been 13 years since I've seen it; but my mom reminded me of dad's old stereo that she got in the divorce when I was 3 years old. I decided to take a look at it.
I'm glad that I did. This is what I found.
Kenwood KA7100
It sound very nice at the moment. I'm listening to it on my HSU Research HB-1 bookshelf speakers and it's great. More power than I need but an impressive unit all around. I think I might need to clean it up a bit but it's really surprising me right now. It's like back to the future; 1978 style!
Using this to power my new frugal horns....good idea or bad idea?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
italynstylion said:I'm pretty much just waiting on the drivers from Dave.
With the Kenwood, use really skinny speaker wire -- its biggest downside is that it will have a high damping factor.
Your drivers are nearing completion and should ship this week.
dave
planet10 said:
With the Kenwood, use really skinny speaker wire -- its biggest downside is that it will have a high damping factor.
Your drivers are nearing completion and should ship this week.
dave
Sweet, I can't wait! I just finished up the enclosures and mounted the supra baffles. When the binding posts get here I'll mount them and then pop the drivers in and I'll have music!!!
italynstylion said:...the enclosures are finished
Not quite... you have a quite a tunnel to set the driver into... you need to open that up quite a bit -- we add a 45 degree champher to the inside of the driver cut-out.
dave
Attachments
italynstylion said:Wow, how on earth do I do something like that now that it's all put together?
This is where that handy little rasp comes in...
the documentation could be a bit more explicit...
dave
Attachments
planet10 said:
This is where that handy little rasp comes in...
the documentation could be a bit more explicit...
dave
Your baffle is very thick but a rasp or file will work. I just did that with
an inch thick baffle. The chamfer is done in sections around the screw holes so a daisy pattern with four petals results. There are pictures of this but I do not have one.
Dave can maybe draw that.
What I did was drew a box connecting the four screw points on the back side where my t-nuts were driven in.
The 45 degree angle to file is bordered by those points. You are making four flares in the back and making sure not to go through to the front.
Using a file gives more control than a chamfer bit in a router. I tried that on a previous build and was glad I got a file (half round) to do it on the new build for the 167e.
Maybe you can see this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1716704&stamp=1232302558
That was in a different thread here on a build I'm making.
The 45 degree angle to file is bordered by those points. You are making four flares in the back and making sure not to go through to the front.
Using a file gives more control than a chamfer bit in a router. I tried that on a previous build and was glad I got a file (half round) to do it on the new build for the 167e.
Maybe you can see this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1716704&stamp=1232302558
That was in a different thread here on a build I'm making.
loninappleton said:Maybe you can see this:
\http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1716704&stamp=1232302558
That is a very good illustration of the concept. You don't necessarily have to take it to the extreme lon has.
dave
loninappleton said:What I did was drew a box connecting the four screw points on the back side where my t-nuts were driven in.
The 45 degree angle to file is bordered by those points. You are making four flares in the back and making sure not to go through to the front.
Using a file gives more control than a chamfer bit in a router. I tried that on a previous build and was glad I got a file (half round) to do it on the new build for the 167e.
Maybe you can see this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1716704&stamp=1232302558
That was in a different thread here on a build I'm making.
Awesome. That picture really helps me out. I'll get on that before the drivers arrive so I'm ready when they get here.
Dave, the drivers look great! I can't wait!
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