I’ll have a look into similar designs that look to cross a bass and mid horn to get an idea of what networks and figures to use
By the way, are you aware that the horn driver in a horn will have a very different response (compared to the horn driver data sheet one)?
As example have a look here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/asathor-a-jbl-4367-clone.367215/post-6515733
As example have a look here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/asathor-a-jbl-4367-clone.367215/post-6515733
Yeah I’ve seen a few articles about how the wave guide will affect the frequency response. Is there anyway that I can simulate what the response will be virtually using the frd file for the compression driver and the dimensions of the horn itself??? I know this won’t give the most accurate response but would be better than nothing as I don’t have a microphone to measure the response in real life
I don't know any trick (besides simulating with fem software) other than buying a mic and measuring the driver in the horn - soon you will need one anyway!
But you may also try to find someone near you (even here on diya) who would be willing to measure your drivers in the enclosure and with horn.
I am probably too far away!
But you may also try to find someone near you (even here on diya) who would be willing to measure your drivers in the enclosure and with horn.
I am probably too far away!
Its also good idea check and make sure drivers are in phase around xover point(just invert one of the drivers. The resulting valley must be deep and notch like). Also do enter XYZ correctly relative to each other for this to work effectively.
Also simulate baffle diffraction and room gain using online simulators.
Also simulate baffle diffraction and room gain using online simulators.
How much would something like this be?? I was looking to do this renovation as a sort of entry level and improve after I don’t particularly want to break the bank if I find that I don’t enjoy the process!
That would be very useful I’m based near Bristol so if you’ve heard of anyone near that area I’d love to get in touch
I assume this can be done in the CAD software that I am using? And am I looking for this notch on the phase section of the graphs instead of the SPL one?
It is okay to use measurements you pulled off the Internet for entertainment purposes, and testing the waters of your enthusiasm, but no one here is going to advocate for you to settle on a final crossover design based on manufacturer data. You simply do not have enough information, and the only way to gather useful data for informed crossover design is with these tools. Anything else is a shot in the dark. There are some wizards on this site that can do very deep simulation with software like akabak, and these people can better utilize manufacturer data, but even in this case, the people with this skillset use these tools as rough drafts, not final speaker designs
Re:'but no one here is going to advocate for you to settle on a final crossover design based on manufacturer data. You simply do not have enough information" - I disagree, many manufacturers have good, useful data, if you have the experience to use it, although I usually use higher resolution impedance curves which I do myself.
To get these impedance measurements will I not need another amplifier and a sine wave generator (potentially could be done on a laptop) to do this?? Which would be more important to get an actual measurement for the frequency or the impedance? I would have thought the frequency as this sounds like it changes a lot more depending on the environment the speaker is in
Right, the experience to use it is the sticking point in my opinion. I was referring to OP's case in particular. I did mention in my post that there are some people that can extrapolate manufacturer data into usable information for their specific use case, but I meant to convey that in OP's case, that probably isn't realistic. Anyways, I'm curious. Would you design a speaker from start to finish without your own measurement tools? And feel confident in the final product? Even if I knew how to use akabak and similar software, I would still want to confirm my simulations with real measurements
I think personally I am going to opt for measuring the real response of the drivers rather than using a simulation as this will never truly give the the actual response of the drivers in the given environment. If I was to go about this where would I be able to find somewhere that does this or what kit would I need to get started?
You need to exclude enviroment for your measurements ... at least for x-over simulation and planning.
You will need a measurement microphone (can be usb- measurement mic, but that can be difficult for time reference), a mic stand, a computer with soundcard providing microphone input (not necessary for usb-mic), an amp for your speakers and a measurement software (arta or REW or similar).
You also need some time to learn how to do meaningful measurements (that was and is my experience!).
You can find lots of information here on diyaudio, in the REW manual and other resources on the net.
Take your time otherwise it will quickly get frustrating!
Re:'will I not need another amplifier and a sine wave generator" - no, software like ARTA and a simple jig will suffice
Re:'more important to get an actual measurement for the frequency or the impedance?" - impedance, all crossover component calculations are based on impedance, the frequency has already been decided when you choose your crossover point
Re:'more important to get an actual measurement for the frequency or the impedance?" - impedance, all crossover component calculations are based on impedance, the frequency has already been decided when you choose your crossover point
I’ve found a measurement microphone that uses a cable so I’d need a soundcard like a focusurite to get the audio into my laptop. The amp I have delivers 2 x 500w at 4ohms and 2x 350w at 8ohms, will this be fine? And for measuring the impedance what is needed? I’ve seen a few things about all in one systems that can do this but they’re pretty expensive is there another way to do it with the amp I already have?