My contribution to this site...if anyone is interested.

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or,
if you standing facing it, it goes one way.
If you standing facing away from it, it still goes the same way. Until you turn around to observe the effect and then it reverses to prove that observation changes the experiment.

exactly! Also, if your walking on the railroad tracks...and see a train coming, don't worry, just turn around and VOILÀ! It's gone!

LOL
 
Well, don't keep us in suspense.


Sorry for the delay...the weekends pass by too damn fast.

I wanted to get a quick few pics in showing what happens when you don't sheath the shielding after construction. It unwraps itself a little...but it can be easily re-rolled. If you wrap it in some texflex immediately after, in a few days it will not come undone. Also, here is a pic showing the 28 gauge silver and wire bundles that I purchased from Neotech. The conductors come encased with teflon...and if I remember correctly, you can choose the option for PVC when ordering.

Since I have plenty, and do not see myself making 100 more cables...I will post a thread in the SWAP MEET section for those interested in purchasing a few lengths of either copper OR silver. This way you can design your own now that I have shown my techniques.

I will continue updating this thread with further info...more technical info as to why I chose certain materials and configurations for the construction.

Cheers.
 

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Last edited:
Sorry for the delay...the weekends pass by too damn fast.

I wanted to get a quick few pics in showing what happens when you don't sheath the shielding after construction. It unwraps itself a little...but it can be easily re-rolled. If you wrap it in some texflex immediately after, in a few days it will not come undone. Also, here is a pic showing the 28 gauge silver and wire bundles that I purchased from Neotech. The conductors come encased with teflon...and if I remember correctly, you can choose the option for PVC when ordering.

Since I have plenty, and do not see myself making 100 more cables...I will post a thread in the SWAP MEET section for those interested in purchasing a few lengths of either copper OR silver. This way you can design your own now that I have shown my techniques.

I will continue updating this thread with further info...more technical info as to why I chose certain materials and configurations for the construction.

Cheers.

I'll take a trial set :)
 
Have you ever used semi-rigid coax for audio. If you're the spending big bucks for low crystal copper you really don't want to flex or bend it at all.
Also as you know, cotton readily absorbs moisture and critters can make their home there unless it's sealed air tight.
 
Have you ever used semi-rigid coax for audio. If you're the spending big bucks for low crystal copper you really don't want to flex or bend it at all.
Also as you know, cotton readily absorbs moisture and critters can make their home there unless it's sealed air tight.

Actually, the foil shielding is airtight. You see, the adhesive works to keep the air/moisture out. That is another advantage that I have not gone into yet in this thread. If you seal the ends where the conductor connects to the RCA with hot glue...it is a moisture tight environment. Here is another interesting thing....the foil shield is just the right stiffness, that allows for a coiled cable (as seen in one of my pics)...BUT keeps it from kinking. So, in essence, your valid points are easily self cured by the foil tape.

Thanks for the info.
 
air-tight

are you sure?

Underfloor heating is crippled if sludge builds up in the concreted in pipes.
Yet knowing this some suppliers installed pipes that passed air to the water inside.
The oxygen in the dissolved air reacted with the various compounds in the system and created sludge.
Until recently there were still companies (in the UK) installing plastic pipe without an air barrier.
My pipe is a triple layer, plastic - aluminium - plastic, of three different materials.

Your "glue" has no hope of keeping the enclosure air-tight!
 
are you sure?

Underfloor heating is crippled if sludge builds up in the concreted in pipes.
Yet knowing this some suppliers installed pipes that passed air to the water inside.
The oxygen in the dissolved air reacted with the various compounds in the system and created sludge.
Until recently there were still companies (in the UK) installing plastic pipe without an air barrier.
My pipe is a triple layer, plastic - aluminium - plastic, of three different materials.

Your "glue" has no hope of keeping the enclosure air-tight!

I Duth Protest!

3 years after construction, I cut one IC in half to see if there would be any oxidation. Nope. Shiney silver/copper. :checked:
 
are you sure?

Underfloor heating is crippled if sludge builds up in the concreted in pipes.
Yet knowing this some suppliers installed pipes that passed air to the water inside.
The oxygen in the dissolved air reacted with the various compounds in the system and created sludge.
Until recently there were still companies (in the UK) installing plastic pipe without an air barrier.
My pipe is a triple layer, plastic - aluminium - plastic, of three different materials.

Your "glue" has no hope of keeping the enclosure air-tight!

Can't quite see the connection here? Internal build up of sludge in a pipe doesn't seem to bear any connection to 'possible' ingress of moisture through a barrier :confused:
 
It's not just the glue we are referencing here. There are approximately 4-5 layers of foil tape surrounding the cotton. The foil tape is made up of aluminum layered onto a polymer with adhesive attached. The adhesive is designed to adhere well onto the surface it will bond to. This foil tape is used in air conditioning/heating ducts to prevent AND SEAL adjoining surfaces.
 
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