My contribution to this site...if anyone is interested.

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Hi. Returning home and work, to find me having to leave for work for an emergency for the rest of the week. I'm leaving tomorrow.
Also returning from my vacations to find problem at home. The front door handle was no longer working, we had to go through the garage, and the kitchen sink is jam!

Fixed the door (went in town to get parts, took me 3 hours), now working on the sink, but it doesn't look good.
II may have to re-do some of the plumbing.

No more news about the connector install?
 
Hi. Returning home and work, to find me having to leave for work for an emergency for the rest of the week. I'm leaving tomorrow.
Also returning from my vacations to find problem at home. The front door handle was no longer working, we had to go through the garage, and the kitchen sink is jam!

Fixed the door (went in town to get parts, took me 3 hours), now working on the sink, but it doesn't look good.
II may have to re-do some of the plumbing.

No more news about the connector install?


For heavens sake...you should have never returned:D

I also am going on vacation on wed. I haven't had the time to get into the mood to post. I'm kinda like a woman in that respect. Need a little warm up time. Have you built the cotton/foil sheathing yet?
 
of course I'll read the WHOLE thing!!!!!

I had the opportunity to design my own interconnects. I spent approximately 10K in materials, equipment, research and design, and hundreds of hours with trial and error. Why? because I wanted to add something special to my systems that was "me". Also...this is an arena that I believe is easier for the amateur to do themselves. Mind you, I'm not just talking about conductor + Teflon + connectors = interconnects. This was an all-out assault to design something almost entirely had made.

I would be glad to do a tutorial with plenty of pics from start to finish if I can get enough interest from the peeps here. These are not your typical construction IC's. I promise.

Just add a comment like :

Sure...I'll read the damn thing.
Heck...I would love to see your thoughts and ideas.
Show me your's and I'll show you mine.

...or just a simple, OK, go for it will do.

you Won't be disappointed, I promise.

Spiro.
 
I had the opportunity to design my own interconnects. I spent approximately 10K in materials, equipment, research and design, and hundreds of hours with trial and error.

Spiro.

For me if it conducts and will accept the current I giove it then its fine.

Never had a problem with sound, and never had a complaint from my punters who listened to my disco. Well, except the odd "turn it down".
 
Well...its time to finish this. Sorry for the long delay, but right about when I started this thread...my father was diagnosed with stage 4 colon--->liver cancer. Needless to say...till his death on 12-28-11...this is the most fecked-up thing I had ever (and still am) had to go through. Thankfully, I lost my job when he was still in very good health (you couldnt tell he had ANY problems from the cancer OR the chemo) and was able to spend many months chillaxing with him. The universe works in mysterious ways.

Dont mean to depress anyone...just the facts.

I'll be adding things here n there to this thread...I just have to go back and re-read the damn thing so I know wtf is going on...lol....cheers
 
Obviously real life has priority over any hobby.

Thanks for the build details presented so far.

I am inferring from what I've read that to your ears:

Quality of return/ground makes a difference (you used OCC vs cheaper Cu)
Individually shielded signal & ground is better than shielded twisted signal/ground
Mixed materials on signal better than mono material on signal (i.e. Cu/Ag>Ag>Cu)
 
Little note here...

It seems that Wmart doesnt carry the same cotton/nylon rope anymore. BUT, they do carry one with cotton/cotton-fiber-mix which has a slightly bigger diameter than the previous one. I am fiddling with it and find it BETTER to work with. The inner cotton portion according to the manufacturer is called a "durable core"...whatever the heck that means. Doesnt matter really. Though, it is a little bit more tricky to remove than the older nylon core the previous cotton rope utilized. It has a tendency to break if you pull too hard...but after a couple of attempts, its not all that bad to deal with. Here is a linkypoo.

Walmart.com: 3/16" Cotton Clothesline: Hardware

I'll post pics soon
 
If you shield the signal and the return the return current could have quite a torterous path I'd have thought. For low level signals I would think shielded twisted pair would be better, keeping the signal and return in more intimate contact.
What would happen to the impedance and inductance of such a construction?
Then you get into the quandry of connecting the shield at both ends or not, plenty in H.Otts bokk on shielding but couldn't find anything for shielded ground, balanced audio yes, but not single ended. Even ay Audios lowish frequencies I'm still think signal and return should be intimate from transmitter/output to reciever/input for best signal integrity and avoiding induced noise.
 
Marce, what you say is true..but more directed to twisted pair like in a CAT5 cable where wire runs can be pretty long.

Usually twisting the wires would help for reasons of canceling EMI. The degree of EMI rejection is also dependent upon the twisting schemes, how tight the twist is made. RFI is a more common problem with interconnects. If equipment is properly shielded, EMI through a cable is not as common as people tend to think. In short runs of wire (interconnects vs speaker cables) inductance/capacitance is not a major issue, especially since the conductor I use is 28 gauge. Also, in my cable design...I do not use the shileding as ground (like some do).
 
With regards to shielding unbalanced analog interconnects, you have to read Henry Ott very carefully. In one situation one solution is best in another situation another solution is better. So if you don't read all the fine print, you will reach the wrong conclusion.

Bill Whitlock points out that the most important thing in unbalanced analog interconnects is to have a very heavy return wire. This is most easily achieved by using a braided shield.
 
Quality of return/ground makes a difference (you used OCC vs cheaper Cu)
Individually shielded signal & ground is better than shielded twisted signal/ground
Mixed materials on signal better than mono material on signal (i.e. Cu/Ag>Ag>Cu)

How did you arrive at these conclusions?

Hi AndrewT,
I refer you to post 10
Aptquark said:
And when I say that I literally tried EVERY combination of conductor morphology with every single imaginable combination of equipment...I am dead serious.

I am assuming that what Aptquark is presenting is the best combination to his ears, thus my conclusions. Aptquark may confirm or deny such, but what I was really hoping for was some further commentary on these points.
 
did ya mention what your reference system is?

_-_-bear


I thought I did...(man dont make me go back and read my ramblings..lol)

My ref. sys. were SS = Jeff Rowland class D amp / and pre-amp, Weytech Labs Opal Pre (tube), Gamut SS amp, Jolida CDP (tube out and digital out)..and a few other types.

But the Manley Skipjack is what really made the whole process easy. With this device, you can hook up 4 cables and seemlessly transition through each one with a single source input. It has a wired remote (like 30 feet long) where with one click you can sample each cable immediately with no audible break between each.

Isnt that a pretty good way to just sit back and try out diff. designs? I thought so anyways.
 
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