My "audiophile" LM3886 approach

derekyu said:
I wonder if I add a seperate DC regulator for LM 318 instead. Will it be more good?

Btw, do i need to use isolator for LM 3886?

May be this question is stupid..... but i forget this since i have not do audio diy for almost 18 years.


It is wise to use an isolator if you use the TA(not TF) package.

You question about the regulator is answered by mauro in this thread.

The short answer is no, you will not get the same results. The circuit is built around the characteristics of the shunt regulator.

Cheers!
Russ
 
Russ White said:
The best description I have of the sound of this amp compared to my best GCs (this is not a GC) is that it sounds very much "class A". Its sound compares well to (or better than) a Krell or an Aleph, though some will think me heretical for saying so, but it is true.

I don't think you're 'heretical', I just ask if you made a direct comparison with a Krell or an Aleph, you don't specify which ones.
I prefer my chipamp over a Krell KAV-300iL, which I had at home for some time.
Either with my pre or just comparing the power amps, I prefered the transparency and musicality of my amp.

Oh, btw, my amp is not a 'GC' too.:D

PS: and I payed more 30€ in the electricity bill that month, when I had the Krell here.:clown:
 
carlosfm said:


I don't think you're 'heretical', I just ask if you made a direct comparison with a Krell or an Aleph, you don't specify which ones.
I prefer my chipamp over a Krell KAV-300iL, which I had at home for some time.
Either with my pre or just comparing the power amps, I prefered the transparency and musicality of my amp.

Oh, btw, my amp is not a 'GC' too.:D

PS: and I payed more 30€ in the electricity bill that month, when I had the Krell here.:clown:

Ah you are correct, I forgot to mention which I tested.

I currently own a KSA-50S, and a second hand Aleph 30 SE, and like them both, but I find Mauro's ref better than either. :) I have and am still testing this amp head to head with those two as well as 6 different GCs:
3875 buffered I and (non buffered)NI
3886 buffered I and (non-buffered)NI
4780 NI parralel and NI stereo.

All with snubbered PSUs.

While all are good, they could not ever come close the Krell, Aleph,or My REF As. :)

Cheers!
Russ
 
Russ White said:


Ah you are correct, I forgot to mention which I tested.

I currently own a KSA-50S, and a second hand Aleph 30 SE, and like them both, but I find Mauro's ref better than either. :) I have and am still testing this amp head to head with those two as well as 6 different GCs:
3875 buffered I and (non buffered)NI
3886 buffered I and (non-buffered)NI
4780 NI parralel and NI stereo.

All with snubbered PSUs.

While all are good, they could not ever come close the Krell, Aleph,or My REF As. :)

Cheers!
Russ


That is pretty good company. Is the Aleph 30 better sounding than the Krell?

George
 
It would be great if everyone pitched in a few dollars and one of the builders built a big A/B/C comparison amplifier that we could ship from person to person for like 1 week loans to try out the various designs. I realize the amount of trust but maybe someone with a good rep could put a credit card hold in case the person tries to run away with the comparison amp.

I think that would be awesome instead of building boatloads of amps just to find that magic one.

Community owned demo unit. Maybe put a lock on it so noone tampers with the internals and build a plexi top so everyone can look inside to how it was built.
 
Russ White said:
Naaaah, that one doesn't get very hot, but R1,R4,R24,R27 get kinda warm. I am sure I didn't really need to replace them, I just felt better about having a beefier resistor there. :)
Well, R14 is for the auxilary power output connector, so it would all depend on what you have hooked up to that connector. I will have to see for myself just how hot the resistors get and look into replacing them, as I do like my music loud :). I'm sure you are right though that there shouldn't be a problem leaving them be.
 
Madmike2 said:
Out of curiosity, why does no one use copper heat sinks ? Far greater heat dissapation then aluminium.:confused:

I've got some 63mm x 12mm x160mm copper that I have ordered for this purpose. The plan is to mount it to my aluminium case, and mount the 3886's to the copper.

I'm actually wondering if I should put heatsink compound between the Cu and Al?

Michael
 
1 (the big one)): copper is much more expensive than aluminum

2) can't extrude copper, so fins would be soldered, fused (not as good as one piece), or machined (from big $$ chuck of copper).

3) You find one... ;)

I am actualy using copper for a water cooled design. I use it for heat spreaders as well, both for small components on large heatsinks, and to bridge multiple aluminum heat sinks. Need to watch the copper to aluminum jundtions however, as they will corode like crazy.
 
I'm actually wondering if I should put heatsink compound between the Cu and Al?

At least that, yes. You can also use SilPad sheet between them. Corrosion is one reason for the compound, other is gaps in the joint.

Use only a very fine film of it however. Most of it is supposed to squeeze out to the metal is as close as possible, so you need to be sure none will ne trapped.