I am big fan of flat colours and it helps to match our front room!
Anyway, thanks to all have given me great advice so far, these do sound really amazing!
Dave, Scott, Chris, Perceval, Greg, et all, thank you!
Greg, you mentioned earlier in this thread *properly* blending these with my subs. Is there an article/procedure/method you can recomend, please?
I have a Behringer mic and REW and a Minidsp 2x4 for x-over eq and time allignment. Time alignment is something I have never attempted apart from reading a Bob Katz article on it. I think there may be something in it in his book 'Mastering Audio' that I bought when I was producing music which I'll revist.
So happy with these things so far! I watched a film last night a dog trotted off camera and I jumped out of my skin thinking my cat had walked in to the room from the same position because of the stereo width!
Anyway, thanks to all have given me great advice so far, these do sound really amazing!
Dave, Scott, Chris, Perceval, Greg, et all, thank you!
Greg, you mentioned earlier in this thread *properly* blending these with my subs. Is there an article/procedure/method you can recomend, please?
I have a Behringer mic and REW and a Minidsp 2x4 for x-over eq and time allignment. Time alignment is something I have never attempted apart from reading a Bob Katz article on it. I think there may be something in it in his book 'Mastering Audio' that I bought when I was producing music which I'll revist.
So happy with these things so far! I watched a film last night a dog trotted off camera and I jumped out of my skin thinking my cat had walked in to the room from the same position because of the stereo width!
You're welcome!
None I'm aware of, though this software has an optimizer feature that may be beneficial to the neophyte: https://kimmosaunisto.net/Software/VituixCAD/VituixCAD_help_11.pdf
GM
None I'm aware of, though this software has an optimizer feature that may be beneficial to the neophyte: https://kimmosaunisto.net/Software/VituixCAD/VituixCAD_help_11.pdf
GM
Yeah, hey really are exceeding my expectations and I've done nothing more than put them in place of the Alpair 6.2ms you can see in Scotts Sasquatch Compact MLTL!
The Sasquatch is really nice though I have always had doubts about damping in them. They have no damping behind the driver as I read in several places that this wasn't appropriate for these drivers. However, having been helped through this process I can understand some of the faults they had.
1. not enough damping behind the driver.
2. Side panels are in 12mm MDF (other panels are in 15mm)
3. They are just a bit too small for my requirements as they are more suited to nearfield use.
However, the 7MS do carry to sound of the Alpair family but just better!
Come back from holiday, you won't regret it!
The Sasquatch is really nice though I have always had doubts about damping in them. They have no damping behind the driver as I read in several places that this wasn't appropriate for these drivers. However, having been helped through this process I can understand some of the faults they had.
1. not enough damping behind the driver.
2. Side panels are in 12mm MDF (other panels are in 15mm)
3. They are just a bit too small for my requirements as they are more suited to nearfield use.
However, the 7MS do carry to sound of the Alpair family but just better!
Come back from holiday, you won't regret it!
Graham, your comments are making me wish I wasn’t going on holiday tomorrow & could rough up some cabinets for my A11MS, great to hear they are performing well
In the photo there are a pair of floorstanders, what drivers are in those & how do they compare ?
J
Seriously?! Sure it wasn't around the vent? The only drivers that don't need some damping on at least one of any parallel walls in the area around them have a sealed back in which case of course means it doesn't need a box either. Note that the inside of the baffle isn't one of them.
GM
edit: Note too that when the driver is positioned at a TL's 1st mode [top] or even its 1/5th pipe harmonic it's at/near its maximum acoustic pressure, hence inherently needs more damping than when shifted down to its 3rd or 2/5th offset [the least required/smoothest response overall].
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Very odd. As noted above, all drivers require some damping to their rear on at least one parallel wall. Where you have to go careful is applying high densities in close proximity to the driver, which can mass-load the diaphragm / suspension & prevent it moving as intended. That is not an euphemism for 'no damping at all behind the driver' though.
.......and to effectively mass load the diaphragm the damping has to be right up against the driver, so requires a loosely attached screen [historically cheesecloth] to both somewhat damp and protect the driver from the insulation's dust/fibers/whatever potentially damaging it or at least impairing its performance in unpredictable ways.
GM
GM
Morning all!
So, I have had my bookshelf sized cabinets for a week now and they are very nice. However, my plans to make floorstanders is still on my mind. So intead of making a plinth I am going to make an all-in-one bookshelf and plint. The bottom chamber will be filled with sand.
Questions:
1. I have been playing about with the wool I have and i de-laminates to about 7-8mm. Would the covering the three internal walls with this less extreme dampening be preferable or is the diagonal curtain still the optimum approach. Also, why diagonal, Greg? Is this to do with maximum effect from minimal material?
2. Bracing. I am going to repeat the bracing I used in the first cabinets by running to strips of 18mmx20mm up the length of the cabs. Do I even need this bracing with such small cabinets these in 18mm MDF? Thoughts?
3. I have simmed over stuffing these cabinets but only see an effect to the lower end by making the roll off contour in a slightly more, errr, slow and dopey way (sorry, not the best description). What would I be losing in the top op end of the FR.
I hope to bash out these floorstanders from start to finish this weekend including, sealing, painting and varnishing but the weather looks a bit rubbish so I may have to erect a tarpaulin tent in the garden. What happened to our Indian summer here in the UK?
So, I have had my bookshelf sized cabinets for a week now and they are very nice. However, my plans to make floorstanders is still on my mind. So intead of making a plinth I am going to make an all-in-one bookshelf and plint. The bottom chamber will be filled with sand.
Questions:
1. I have been playing about with the wool I have and i de-laminates to about 7-8mm. Would the covering the three internal walls with this less extreme dampening be preferable or is the diagonal curtain still the optimum approach. Also, why diagonal, Greg? Is this to do with maximum effect from minimal material?
2. Bracing. I am going to repeat the bracing I used in the first cabinets by running to strips of 18mmx20mm up the length of the cabs. Do I even need this bracing with such small cabinets these in 18mm MDF? Thoughts?
3. I have simmed over stuffing these cabinets but only see an effect to the lower end by making the roll off contour in a slightly more, errr, slow and dopey way (sorry, not the best description). What would I be losing in the top op end of the FR.
I hope to bash out these floorstanders from start to finish this weekend including, sealing, painting and varnishing but the weather looks a bit rubbish so I may have to erect a tarpaulin tent in the garden. What happened to our Indian summer here in the UK?
1. Dunno, each cab alignment is unique and why ideally one starts with a guess based on experience or with none to see how 'hollow' it sounds and begin there. Once it's gone, any more is beginning to lower acoustic efficiency, so now down to personal 'taste'. Right, plus some on the top plate.
2. Probably not, just a vertical, horizontal motor brace.
3. Right, stuffing first damps any higher frequency 'ripple' and any denser begins rolling off the extreme bass and with enough, damps down the mid bass/lower mids. Excessive damping can mass load the driver enough to audibly alter a driver's HF response, sometimes enough to 'suck the life' out of it, so this much damping should be limited to subs, TLs or wide range drivers that need it.
'slow and dopey way' = it's actually lowering its Q slope factor, improving its transient response and in some cases can cause it to become over damped [< 0.5 Qtc/Qtb/Qtp].
Dunno, 'feast or famine' this year with precious little normal weather in my locale, going from a super rainy/flooding Spring/Summer to a drought that's browned out/killed quite a bit of my much needed new growth.
GM
2. Probably not, just a vertical, horizontal motor brace.
3. Right, stuffing first damps any higher frequency 'ripple' and any denser begins rolling off the extreme bass and with enough, damps down the mid bass/lower mids. Excessive damping can mass load the driver enough to audibly alter a driver's HF response, sometimes enough to 'suck the life' out of it, so this much damping should be limited to subs, TLs or wide range drivers that need it.
'slow and dopey way' = it's actually lowering its Q slope factor, improving its transient response and in some cases can cause it to become over damped [< 0.5 Qtc/Qtb/Qtp].
Dunno, 'feast or famine' this year with precious little normal weather in my locale, going from a super rainy/flooding Spring/Summer to a drought that's browned out/killed quite a bit of my much needed new growth.
GM
Thanks, I was a little apprehensive to measure the bookshelves seeing as I am going to be making the all in one weighted floorstander. After they are constructed they will be rigourously tested to make any changes.
I'm a little nervous to be making these as my expectations are high and I don't want to mess anything up! Thank fully I have 4 days off work from Saturday so will have ample time to not rush.
My main concerns are making sure the baffle and cut outs are centred. I bought a new flush trim bit as my old one left a sort of fluting. I've also got some 2 part wood filler so I can get the vent flush.
Maybe I'm putting too much pressure on myself, I have to remember this is what I enjoy doing! I'll just picture the beers I'll have afterwards.
The weather looks to be improving on Saturday so the camo tarp need not be erected!
I've settled my other half by saying I won't build another set of mains for at least a year though, I haven't told her that the next project is replacing the 6.5" subs with something s littl classier.
Yeah, hasn't the weather been odd this year, Greg? Are you a gardener or farmer of sorts?
I'm a little nervous to be making these as my expectations are high and I don't want to mess anything up! Thank fully I have 4 days off work from Saturday so will have ample time to not rush.
My main concerns are making sure the baffle and cut outs are centred. I bought a new flush trim bit as my old one left a sort of fluting. I've also got some 2 part wood filler so I can get the vent flush.
Maybe I'm putting too much pressure on myself, I have to remember this is what I enjoy doing! I'll just picture the beers I'll have afterwards.
The weather looks to be improving on Saturday so the camo tarp need not be erected!
I've settled my other half by saying I won't build another set of mains for at least a year though, I haven't told her that the next project is replacing the 6.5" subs with something s littl classier.
Yeah, hasn't the weather been odd this year, Greg? Are you a gardener or farmer of sorts?
You're welcome!
Sure sounds like it! I mean if you're happy with their performance as is, then minor changes in damping, holes not dead center** shouldn't be audible to any but creatures with [near] ultrasonic hearing.
**which BTW should ideally be offset on the baffle in a golden or acoustic ratio to randomize internal side wall reflections to further reduce internal damping and randomize external baffle eigenmodes, which is the more important of the two, but your speakers are way too narrow.
That said, built into a [sterilized] sand filled column where its bottom plate is just a divider should add more 'weight'/'fullness'/'tightness' to the speaker's low end response as if clamped down on it somewhat, so ideally needs a very massive top plate and extremely rigid side plates to complete this super low mechanical resonance circuit.
That, or do like is done with heavy vibrating machinery and 'float' it on a viscous platform, especially if your floor is a 'floating' [suspended] one like I have, though in my case I had the option to place them in the corners of an outside concrete block foundation wall where it's the most rigid/massive and speakers heavy enough [~250 lbs/ea.] to couple well enough with it.
Very!! No, though my father came from a long line of farmers dating back to Europe to at least the 14th century AFAIK. I just have a decent size corner lot ringed with various hardwoods that ~ cover the entire property from overhead, which is pretty common for 'old' metro Atlanta in general and my locale in particular, so while we spend very little on AC, we 'pay' in high yard maintenance, especially when high winds and/or lightning damages the trees and of course sometimes the house, etc..
GM
Sure sounds like it! I mean if you're happy with their performance as is, then minor changes in damping, holes not dead center** shouldn't be audible to any but creatures with [near] ultrasonic hearing.
**which BTW should ideally be offset on the baffle in a golden or acoustic ratio to randomize internal side wall reflections to further reduce internal damping and randomize external baffle eigenmodes, which is the more important of the two, but your speakers are way too narrow.
That said, built into a [sterilized] sand filled column where its bottom plate is just a divider should add more 'weight'/'fullness'/'tightness' to the speaker's low end response as if clamped down on it somewhat, so ideally needs a very massive top plate and extremely rigid side plates to complete this super low mechanical resonance circuit.
That, or do like is done with heavy vibrating machinery and 'float' it on a viscous platform, especially if your floor is a 'floating' [suspended] one like I have, though in my case I had the option to place them in the corners of an outside concrete block foundation wall where it's the most rigid/massive and speakers heavy enough [~250 lbs/ea.] to couple well enough with it.
Very!! No, though my father came from a long line of farmers dating back to Europe to at least the 14th century AFAIK. I just have a decent size corner lot ringed with various hardwoods that ~ cover the entire property from overhead, which is pretty common for 'old' metro Atlanta in general and my locale in particular, so while we spend very little on AC, we 'pay' in high yard maintenance, especially when high winds and/or lightning damages the trees and of course sometimes the house, etc..
GM
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