MJK’s Jordan JX92S OB with a Goldwood GW-1858 Woofer in an H Frame

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I popped two K33E in Klipschorns in a small room on 1812 trying to wake a drunken friend - he just snoozed while the coils came apart ----suspect the Belles A 70 watt rated amp clipped violently (???) -- - my little Karlson 12 played 10dB louder than the Madison 21" from 80 up with a 95oz magnet Pyle--Eminence PYM1298 - great noisemaker - visceral with 200 watts -- I think a 25 degree tilt would have less dip than this old copy which I moved the port on for test - that LC network has a low Z - Grahams' T-circuit must be lower (?)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
For testing the cone travel, please try the footsteps of T-rex (also in Telarc recording).

It's claimed containing high level of very low frequency down to 8Hz. It can make my 18" woofers run out of their 6mm Xmax:devilr: It's sick.

I have sin, I've done it for 2 or 3 times. (god bless the neighbors:angel: )

Very intereting, though, if you want to let the woofers stretch their legs. :D
 
>>> My son and I fired up Telarc 1812 overture one night when the girls were out. We cranked it up to a decent level and the cannons went off. It was great, I was smiling and he was laughing.

My son ran out of the room while playing the Happy Feet cd. I was trying to blend the woofers with my main speakers using a number of cds and must have been playing too loudly. I listen differently when trying to match driver output. When settling in for listening sessions the volume is much lower. I guess i have been listening to soundtracks lately. With the H-Frames bass on the Wicked cd is full and bouncy. Without them bass is light. There is a generous ease of presentation with large woofers. I'm spoiled for anything else!

Godzilla
 
freddi said:
when trying 6-8" fullrange on top of the GW-1858 H-baffle and with lower xover should the FR cutouts be moved in more towards center?

The full range driver is offset up and towards the inside edge of the baffle to try and control the baffle diffraction induced ripple that occurs above the first hump. The worst position would be centered. So if the driver diameter is larger and you want to shift the driver a little I don't think it will be too harmful for the SPL response. I don't think I would put it in the middle of the 20 x 20 inch baffle. You could also try changing the shape of the baffle to see what happens, the EDGE program might help you optimize a position/shape to reduce ripple for a larger full range driver.
 
Godzilla said:
[BMy son ran out of the room while playing the Happy Feet cd.[/B]

My son is 17. Anything I do with my stereo that might pi$$ off the wife or his younger sisters, shake the house, or has the potential to blow up a speaker/amp is of real interest to him. If I am not doing one of those three activities, he is happy just listening to his i-Pod.
 
thanks Martin - - re:EDGE - I'm on a Linux pc right now -- maybe a couple of inches off center (?).- --original Silver Iris on open baffle at high spl sounded like a distorted toy compared to an 18K topped with Unity horn - 3 X the excursion and less output than the coupler- - all this stuff is different - Hoffman's law is a strong one.

my kid is 23 and doesn't care one thing about audio toys nor knows brands, models and "value"- - maybe he's better off - LOL
 
MJK said:


I don't think so. In an OB the Jordan will have minimal output on the sides and top so reflections off of the walls and ceiling will be less than a boxed speaker. I think as you go up in frequency adding an H frame structure might lead to unwanted resonances that color the sound. In this case, simple might be better.


This post go me thinking of a baffle johnincr made for his fe108ez. Obviously not simpler but,

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I'm wondering if a wave guide type approach would bring the main down low enough for a plate amp could pick up the H baffles.
 
Corloc said:



This post go me thinking of a baffle johnincr made for his fe108ez. Obviously not simpler but,

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I'm wondering if a wave guide type approach would bring the main down low enough for a plate amp could pick up the H baffles.

I don't understand the question.
 
Sorry, As with a H baffle a wave guide should bring down the usable frequency of the driver. Same as wider baffle. You shouldn't get as many resonances with the wave guide, and might be able to bring the frequency of the Jordan to 150hz were a plate amp could pick up. No need for crossover. Or maybe a high pass for the Jordan.

Sorry, writing with sleeping baby in lap isn't easy.

I'm trying to find a way not to buy more parts than I already have.
 
MisterTwister said:
waveguide is very difficult to make. if you have woodworking tools definitely go for waveguide. better off axis response and much more aesteticaly pleasing then huge plain baffles.
another option is to construct them out of very thin mdf
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2179/cimg1391dm0.jpg

That looks like a very nice way for proof of concept.

How does yours sound?
 
Corloc said:
Sorry, As with a H baffle a wave guide should bring down the usable frequency of the driver. Same as wider baffle. You shouldn't get as many resonances with the wave guide, and might be able to bring the frequency of the Jordan to 150hz were a plate amp could pick up. No need for crossover. Or maybe a high pass for the Jordan.

I am probably just dense, but I am still having trouble understanding what you are trying to get from the double waveguide arrangement. It would probaby help me if you described the entire set-up and what advantage you felt the full range driver in the double waveguide provided. I guess one could consider an H frame as a taperless double waveguide.

Are you still going to use a woofer for the very bottom end? If yes, then crossing the Jordan over anywhere between 100 and 200 Hz on an OB does not seem to be a real challenge. It would seem to me that a double waveguide could produce response anomolies as frequency increases that a flat OB would not introduce.

If you are talking about running the the Jordan in the double waveguide to eliminate the need for a woofer, I would have my doubts about that set-up.
 
MisterTwister said:
Pyle PDW21250 are very nice woofers.
I got a pair recently. they are about 0.7qts
very smooth impedance curve and no humongous cone breakups,
easily can be crossed at 200hz. I am using them on 24in x 24in plywood baffles.


How did you come by the Qts? I don't see this on any web source I could find. If they are .7 then I am VERY interested. Do you have an xmax or any other specs?
 
Could someone please run a simulation of the alpha 15 crossing at 1200hz in the H frame. I am planning to use it in the "econowave" project that everyone rave about at audiokarma http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150939

Will the alpha be good crossing that high or should i cross it at 900hz. Thanks.
 

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InclinedPlane, I measured them with speaker workshop.
I just rechecked one of them on flat baffle
qts 0.674
fs 35hz
re 6.7
I can't measure xmax unfortunately.
these results don't match with manufacturers' description, nor these results: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1555936#post1555936
I If you decide to get a pair, get them from the same vendor,
so woofers more likely will be from the same production run.
Despite inconsistency, they are excellent woofers. I wish PYLE were making 24 inchers :)
 

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quad esl57

Sorry for being a little OT, but this seemed to be the place to ask. This H-frame Goldwood woofer configuration looks to be ideal as a platform, in both senses of the word, for a Quad esl57 run biamped. I know Quads don't often mate well with subwoofers, and I think part of the problem has always been that they don't mate well with enclosed woofers. Any thoughts?
 
Ok. Bummer on the Fs. The PPA15 claims to have an fs of 27. I have not been able to verify this but they play noticeably lower on OB than the Alpha 15 with far better control. I would try the 21" if it had a lower fs. Also I imagine the 21" has alot of moving mass, but then again a 350 oz magnet is a titan!
 
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