what happens to the coupled cavity peak, etc in a one-driver version of icebear's VSS arrangement where the rear aperture is inverted
http://www.zelfbouwaudio.nl/forum/download.php?id=1668
http://www.zelfbouwaudio.nl/forum/download.php?id=1668
hey Martin - I ordered the Goldwood - - - hope they like Ray Brown - already got 21" Madison (sounded "thick" on bowed bass", Silver Iris, P-Audio coax, plus many 15 including 9mm xmax 15269 and 416 - latter which allow me to do Exemplar's Karlson tuning of ~28Hz Many years ago I popped two K33E in Klipschorns on 1812 as the Belles 70W/channel amp (class A) could not handle the overload - hey I'm trying to be a FR-er of "some sort" and have one RCF 12 wideband sitting on a garbage pail right next to my couch LOL did I miss the boat with my Karlsons? Freddy
Hi freddi,
I have no idea on how to answer your questions. My guess on the cap would be a cheaper alternative would probably be OK for the woofer but I am not sure about the full range driver side of the crossover. You could always try it and decide if you want to invest in the more expensive cap if you feel it is limiting the sound quality. Padding down higher sensitivity drivers could be done with an active crossover (I paired the H frame with my Lowther ML TL just for fun for a few days) or an L-Pad layout of fixed resistors, I am not familair with transformers or autoformers.
I am afraid you have exceeded my limited knowledge.
I have no idea on how to answer your questions. My guess on the cap would be a cheaper alternative would probably be OK for the woofer but I am not sure about the full range driver side of the crossover. You could always try it and decide if you want to invest in the more expensive cap if you feel it is limiting the sound quality. Padding down higher sensitivity drivers could be done with an active crossover (I paired the H frame with my Lowther ML TL just for fun for a few days) or an L-Pad layout of fixed resistors, I am not familair with transformers or autoformers.
I am afraid you have exceeded my limited knowledge.
177.42 is a bit too much for passive crossover.
for that price one can buy 2 refurbushed audiosource amps
and all parts needed to build simple active crossover http://www.linkwitzlab.com/filters.htm#2
I see no reason to choose passive design, unless you can get all parts for 17.42
for that price one can buy 2 refurbushed audiosource amps
and all parts needed to build simple active crossover http://www.linkwitzlab.com/filters.htm#2
I see no reason to choose passive design, unless you can get all parts for 17.42
Martin
I'm very interested in this design.
Do you think there is any possibility the Neofone could be used as a substitute driver for the Jordan?
It's true it's only wide range, but the parameters look to be reasonably close,
especially the Qts.
Jordan: fs 45, vas 0.54, Qts 0.40
Neofone: fs 53.7, vas 0.41, Qts 0.42
Ta
Brian
I'm very interested in this design.
Do you think there is any possibility the Neofone could be used as a substitute driver for the Jordan?
It's true it's only wide range, but the parameters look to be reasonably close,
especially the Qts.
Jordan: fs 45, vas 0.54, Qts 0.40
Neofone: fs 53.7, vas 0.41, Qts 0.42
Ta
Brian
MisterTwister said:177.42 is a bit too much for passive crossover.
for that price one can buy 2 refurbushed audiosource amps
and all parts needed to build simple active crossover http://www.linkwitzlab.com/filters.htm#2
I see no reason to choose passive design, unless you can get all parts for 17.42
By using a decent electrolytic on the woofer and a cheaper air coil (slightly higher R) on the jordan the crossover cost can be cut to ~100 bucks. I know that is not 17.42 but it is certainly reasonable.
Sean
Brain said:
Brian,
The two key parameters will be SPL/W/m and Re of the driver. You will need to match the Jordan's SPL output closely and if Re is different the high pass crossover will need to be adjusted. I don't know anything about the Neofone driver so I can't offer much more of an opinion.
Godzilla said:
I don't think so. In an OB the Jordan will have minimal output on the sides and top so reflections off of the walls and ceiling will be less than a boxed speaker. I think as you go up in frequency adding an H frame structure might lead to unwanted resonances that color the sound. In this case, simple might be better.
MJK said:
full specs claimed to be
Res - 6.8ohm
Fo - 53.662Hz
Sd - 9.503m
Md - 10.000g
Bl - 6.063
Qms - 1.496
Qes - 0.575
Qts - 0.415
SPL - 88.0dB
Vas - 11.596 Ltr
Cms - 904.265u
M/N Krm - 4.230m
Ohm Erm - 0.713
Mms - 8.725g
Mmd - 8.192m kg
kxm - 13.660m
H Exm - 0.63
Clearly the SD is wrong and the BL is way over-estimated - everything else is in a reasonable ballpark for factory specs
My first pass at a crossover (based on the achieving a match to the F120A crossover) due to similar RE): 60 uf and 9 mh
Hey folks, finally getting through this spread, as I'd love to implement something along these lines that could work. However, I'm limited on space, so not sure I can swing a 15" driver. With that, I looked around a bit online to see if I could find a 12" that may work on OB.
US Speaker has a Pyle, in the PYM 1255. It's got an fs of 35hz and a smaller 50 oz magnet. Seems to be a step in the right direction, pending the T/S specs. I've dropped them a note asking for T/S specs, as their not listed and I can't find any record of this driver elsewhere.
Any thoughts on the Pyle drivers in general?
I have a new pair of Fostex 12" woofers that I'm dying to try out, but not sure if their really a good fit. They have a low Q and would take a lot of EQ to get them to work. Not opposed to trying, since I have them. (fs of 25 hz, but Q of .25, as I recall) But something else may be a better fit, no?
And I have to admit to being taken a bit by the hemp cones I've seen paired with the Lowthers on OB as well.
Anyway, great discussion!
US Speaker has a Pyle, in the PYM 1255. It's got an fs of 35hz and a smaller 50 oz magnet. Seems to be a step in the right direction, pending the T/S specs. I've dropped them a note asking for T/S specs, as their not listed and I can't find any record of this driver elsewhere.
Any thoughts on the Pyle drivers in general?
I have a new pair of Fostex 12" woofers that I'm dying to try out, but not sure if their really a good fit. They have a low Q and would take a lot of EQ to get them to work. Not opposed to trying, since I have them. (fs of 25 hz, but Q of .25, as I recall) But something else may be a better fit, no?
And I have to admit to being taken a bit by the hemp cones I've seen paired with the Lowthers on OB as well.
Anyway, great discussion!
freddi said:
For an inexpensive driver they look pretty good. Nothing fancy but they seem well made and perform as expected. No uncontrolled flapping or chuffing noises.
My son and I fired up Telarc 1812 overture one night when the girls were out. We cranked it up to a decent level and the cannons went off. It was great, I was smiling and he was laughing. The first run through was for listening, the second run through I was closely watching the woofers and they moved very little, probably less than 0.25" peak to peak. My room is on the small size and I don't listen at ear shattering levels but in general the bigger drivers I have used recently move very little even on bass heavy tracks. Other then the 1812 overture, I do not see them moving significantly on anything else I play. I am sure some people could stress the drivers but I have not.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.