The Shazam app on my phone says it's Samba Triste by Stan Getz & Charlie Byrd.
Has anyone compared these to some traditional DIY designs?
I got a chance to listen to some Classix II speakers
and I really liked them.
I was thinking of building LCR out of those and using
tc9fd full ranges as surrounds and ceiling speakers (for atmos).
But then I saw a couple of threads mentioning how important is it to have timbre matched speakers for seamless surround effects. I am guessing that the tc9fd will not match well with the Classix and building 7 Classix is out of budget.
I remembered reading through this thread a long while back. They (Karlsonators) seem great, but the problem is that all the praises are for Karlsonators and there is no comparison to any other speaker for reference.
I am sure that they are absolutely amazing for the price but how are they in general compare to traditional DIY or commercial desgins? (some reference or a comparison to Classix if possible would be great)
So, coming to my main question, do you think it would be wise to replace the LCR with 3 0.53x Karlsonators and pair them with tc9fd based surrounds (probably the vifantastic) for a more seamless HT sound?
Would it be a significant drop/upgrade in quality over the Classix?
Thanks,
Pranav
I got a chance to listen to some Classix II speakers
and I really liked them.
I was thinking of building LCR out of those and using
tc9fd full ranges as surrounds and ceiling speakers (for atmos).
But then I saw a couple of threads mentioning how important is it to have timbre matched speakers for seamless surround effects. I am guessing that the tc9fd will not match well with the Classix and building 7 Classix is out of budget.
I remembered reading through this thread a long while back. They (Karlsonators) seem great, but the problem is that all the praises are for Karlsonators and there is no comparison to any other speaker for reference.
I am sure that they are absolutely amazing for the price but how are they in general compare to traditional DIY or commercial desgins? (some reference or a comparison to Classix if possible would be great)
So, coming to my main question, do you think it would be wise to replace the LCR with 3 0.53x Karlsonators and pair them with tc9fd based surrounds (probably the vifantastic) for a more seamless HT sound?
Would it be a significant drop/upgrade in quality over the Classix?
Thanks,
Pranav
In my experience, positioning the drivers at ear height works best (for my stereo system), otherwise the soundstage is too low down if the speakers are not high enough. Angling the speakers up fixes that, though, but will need some trail and error in getting the angle just right.
Others here claim good results tilting the speakers forward, but that had the opposite effect for me.
@SRK
Nothing new,. just an appreciation of your work over the many years. On my desk is now a set of foam speakers with 3FE25 and a HSDZ 3116 modded with your snubber ( which really made a difference in upper frequencies). I have also the version with two drivers, haven't decided yet which one will stay at my desk. It is driven with a Pi with a DAC board on. All in all very cheap, but very well sounding, strongly recommended
Nothing new,. just an appreciation of your work over the many years. On my desk is now a set of foam speakers with 3FE25 and a HSDZ 3116 modded with your snubber ( which really made a difference in upper frequencies). I have also the version with two drivers, haven't decided yet which one will stay at my desk. It is driven with a Pi with a DAC board on. All in all very cheap, but very well sounding, strongly recommended
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It's been a while but I managed to find my original post from July 2014:
TPA3116D2 Amp
Basically connect a 330pF CoG/NP0 cap and 10ohm resistor in series to ground at the output of each channel (4 total) before the inductor. This is where the bootstrap cap is connected, hence, called the "bootstrap snubber mod". It is shown on the EVM board, but was not implemented on many of the Chinese TPA3116 boards that proliferated the market.
TPA3116D2 Amp
Basically connect a 330pF CoG/NP0 cap and 10ohm resistor in series to ground at the output of each channel (4 total) before the inductor. This is where the bootstrap cap is connected, hence, called the "bootstrap snubber mod". It is shown on the EVM board, but was not implemented on many of the Chinese TPA3116 boards that proliferated the market.
Lingwendil, after living with your dual 3fe25-16's for awhile, is there something you are not liking about them or do you simply want a single driver, 16 ohm load?
I ask because I am building a 2w tube amp and am anticipating my existing herd of speakers doesnt have a pair quite sensitive enough for my liking. I am considering the Faitalpro drivers because of their higher sensitivity AND smaller size.
Pete
No big reason, but I have a set of the .4x scale with TC9FD 8 ohm, and the 53x scale with dual 3FE25-16 in paralle for 8 ohm. The .4x live in the grage, and are primarily used with a flea amplifier of about ~1 watt output- so the added sensitivity compared to the Tc9FD would be nice here. The .53x scale are used with a tube amplifier that can do about 20 watts easily, so going to the TC9FD will not be a big hit in volume. The amplifier will still do well at the lower reflected load for my average listening levels, and I have a new amplifier I'm building (monoblocks ) that will be much happier with a 4 ohm load as well.
If you want to build a high sensitivity set of speakers for use with a lower powered amplifier, definitely do a set of .53x with dual 3FE25-16. They sound great and are sensitive enough to reach high, clean SPL with my flea amplifier.
I'm primarily swapping around what I have since money is tight, and I want to make what I have work. At some point I plan to build a pair of wood .53x for the 3FE25 or a larger single fullrange.
) that will be much happier with a 4 ohm load as well.If you want to build a high sensitivity set of speakers for use with a lower powered amplifier, definitely do a set of .53x with dual 3FE25-16. They sound great and are sensitive enough to reach high, clean SPL with my flea amplifier.
I'm primarily swapping around what I have since money is tight, and I want to make what I have work. At some point I plan to build a pair of wood .53x for the 3FE25 or a larger single fullrange.
Hi all. I'm a longtime lurker but this is my first post here and I'm a total newbie in anything related to DIY audio. I'm planning to build my first speaker and decided to pick the x0.4 Karl TC9FD with built in class D amp (TPA3116D2?) as my first project. These are my questions:
1. Are these speakers good to be run full range directly from the internal amp, without any low pass or high pass filter?
2. Is the 8 ohm version preferable here, or should I go with the 4 ohm ones?
3. Can anybody recommend me a good cheap Chinese mono TPA3166D2 board to go with this project? I took a look at AliExpress and there are so many options I'm overwhelmed.
Thank you for any replies and guidance!
1. Are these speakers good to be run full range directly from the internal amp, without any low pass or high pass filter?
2. Is the 8 ohm version preferable here, or should I go with the 4 ohm ones?
3. Can anybody recommend me a good cheap Chinese mono TPA3166D2 board to go with this project? I took a look at AliExpress and there are so many options I'm overwhelmed.
Thank you for any replies and guidance!
I made a x0.4-ish speaker. The one in cloth on first page. I hooked it up to a small but reasonable good class D amp. It sounded harsh but with an ACA, class A, it came to life and sounded real nice. Depending on room and location I sometimes find it better sounding lying down. I've got many admiringly comments of the speaker.
No filter used. 8ohm in this one.
No filter used. 8ohm in this one.
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Hi bunkbail, welcome here. To answer your questions:
1. Yes, you run these full range - no filters - straight from a TPA3116 amp. Great sound!
2. Use 8 ohm - Peerless by Tymphany TC9FD18-08
3. Yes, overwhelming - pick one. But consider things like your input source (line input, Blue Tooth) and would you like to add a sub later (recommended), then go for a 2.1 amp
Here is the system I built for my wife. Sub made with a cheap Goldwood driver.
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
Using this amp:
TPA3116D2 Bluetooth 5.0 Subwoofer Amplifier Board 2.1 Channel High Power Audio Stereo Amplifier Board 2*50W+100W Bass AMP|Amplifier| | - AliExpress
I made a x0.4-ish speaker. The one in cloth on first page. I hooked it up to a small but reasonable good class D amp. It sounded harsh but with an ACA, class A, it came to life and sounded real nice. Depending on room and location I sometimes find it better sounding lying down. I've got many admiringly comments of the speaker.
No filter used. 8ohm in this one.
Thanks for the replies. Exactly what I needed! Now, off to order the drivers!
An update on my not so mini but narrow Karlsonators seen in this post
They have been used daily and this weekend i permanently mounted the front and the tweeter. I just did a sweep and this is the response without EQ. They are awesome!
Thank you XRK for the scaling and Freddi for the Idea with the tweeters!
They have been used daily and this weekend i permanently mounted the front and the tweeter. I just did a sweep and this is the response without EQ. They are awesome!
Thank you XRK for the scaling and Freddi for the Idea with the tweeters!
