Peter's GC Kit
Opps, I put "Dan" on the posts above...
Yes, these are indeed Peter "Dan"iel's kits. I am building the basic version, which as you can see, is of exceptional quality. The premium version must be spectatular, I may try that one down the road, if I like this one.
More pictures on the way!
Opps, I put "Dan" on the posts above...
Yes, these are indeed Peter "Dan"iel's kits. I am building the basic version, which as you can see, is of exceptional quality. The premium version must be spectatular, I may try that one down the road, if I like this one.
More pictures on the way!
X-ray Vision anyone?
Oh man, it is really hard drilling holes thru floors and walls and getting them right! I missed my mark by about half an inch, not bad really, considering I really did not know where my mark was! I have been avoiding this job for a loooong time. I have been running networking cable across about four rooms to get it to this one, no joke! The first time I ran phone lines really was quite miserable so...
...It went better this time, a lot better actually. So I have internet in our living room, and no more wire to trip over! Next I need to get the touch-up kit out and repair the baseboards! Room will be ready tomorrow, so when I am done building, I can play instead of going nuts setting up the room. New amp, new room, new speakers...
Dream Big Everyone!
Allen
Oh man, it is really hard drilling holes thru floors and walls and getting them right! I missed my mark by about half an inch, not bad really, considering I really did not know where my mark was! I have been avoiding this job for a loooong time. I have been running networking cable across about four rooms to get it to this one, no joke! The first time I ran phone lines really was quite miserable so... ...It went better this time, a lot better actually. So I have internet in our living room, and no more wire to trip over! Next I need to get the touch-up kit out and repair the baseboards! Room will be ready tomorrow, so when I am done building, I can play instead of going nuts setting up the room. New amp, new room, new speakers...
Dream Big Everyone!
Allen
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Looks like I need some tall speakers!
Here is where we are at. Couch is not perfect, but it is a lot better then I expected. We can watch the sunsets now - looking thru the archway into the adjacent room's windows. It feels more relaxing.
Look at those big empty spaces, just dying for some tall slender speakers. Work permitting I will start cutting parts for the cabinets. I need to order more parts for the GC amp's PSU, and light bulb tester. I like the idea of keeping it safe.
We are getting there guys.
Here is where we are at. Couch is not perfect, but it is a lot better then I expected. We can watch the sunsets now - looking thru the archway into the adjacent room's windows. It feels more relaxing.
Look at those big empty spaces, just dying for some tall slender speakers. Work permitting I will start cutting parts for the cabinets. I need to order more parts for the GC amp's PSU, and light bulb tester. I like the idea of keeping it safe.
We are getting there guys.
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I like the idea of keeping it safe.
We are getting there guys.
next to TV, hope it's not a toilet...
next to TV, hope it's not a toilet...
Thanks for the gut laugh gychang! It enhanced an already great day I am having.
Welcome mightym, you are right, it is a drum. This is a ceramic djimbe (there may be another name for it), it is great to play on those days the sound system does not sound so good! The best are open jam drum circles - not too many of those in this neck of the woods mind you!
I am glad you all are enjoying the pictures.
Excellent, it sounds like I have the opportunity to place the Aveburys in their ideal locations - where would that be - ballpark? As in how far from the back wall and side walls, not forgeting the window nook and archway into the "game room" As you can see, I have a lot of misplaced things and stuff to sell.
The drivers on the way, (Thanks Dave) and the clock is ticking...
cabinets to build
PSU parts to order
GC enclosures to design and build
I got a relatively open weekend coming (as I will be working about 8 hours of it instead of 20!) I have been looking forward to this weekend. I can lock the door, shut the phone off and build!
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You see we got this guy building the 1st pair so he can let us know
I would suggest that they get put symmetrically in the corners on either side of the TV, then keep pulling them out till the bass is right (ie not too much).
dave
You see we got this guy building the 1st pair so he can let us know
Is the suspense killing you as much as me! You guys are great. Big day tommorrow, get to put blade to baltic birch!
Like this:
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Questions
There where Gemlins at work today, keeping me from cutting the cabinets. The good news is I have the whole day tomorrow.
So, I figured I would post some more questions to brain storm diferent ways to build these cabinets.
My original plan was to cut the pieces as laid out on the cutting sheets of Scott's plans. Then I was going to screw the whole cabinet together using jigs to keep everything in place. Then I would take it apart, remove the jigs, glue it and screw it back together, that way everything stays in place and I do not need to buy all the clamps I do not have. Also, I find butt joints like this move around when glued without some kind of dowel, biscut, or fastener to hold it in place. Keep in mind, I will be covering the outside of this cabinet with solid maple.
The ideal way to build this cabinet "fastener free" is to use a CNC to dado the horn profile into the sides. Then one could glue it together with clamps without any slippage. I do not have the tooling for this, but maybe someone else would want to venture this path.
The other idea, that I can do, but it is very timely, would be to box joint everything together. That would mean chiseling out mortises in the sides for the horn profile. This design would not require the maple exterior, as it would be astetic in its own right.
I am right now leaning towards the glue and screw method with the maple exterior, mainly becuase I have designed a decorative pattern in the maple. Questions in reference to this method are:
Will the screws in the horn section affect the performance of the horn if counter sunk flush. Would putty over screws be better? Would putty fall out over time?
Will oozed out glue affect the horn performance?
Should the horn internals be finished? I plan on using a hand rubbed Tung Oil finish on top of an optional light stain. I love hand rubbed finishes - easy to repair!
This question is for Scott, who I have sent an additional e-mail to. This question can apply to any horn design:
I will be flush mounting the driver to the maple exterior, so will I need to adjust the compression chamber accordingly (as the driver will be "out" more)? Yes or no? You can leave the specific maths of this question in my e-mail.
I am going to bed now, as I am up bright and early to start on this tomorrow, with or without answers to these questions. I am posting them as food for thought and as a last precaution to make sure my glue and screw method is not a really bad idea! So if it is, post something right away!
Dream Big everyone!
Allen
There where Gemlins at work today, keeping me from cutting the cabinets. The good news is I have the whole day tomorrow.
So, I figured I would post some more questions to brain storm diferent ways to build these cabinets.
My original plan was to cut the pieces as laid out on the cutting sheets of Scott's plans. Then I was going to screw the whole cabinet together using jigs to keep everything in place. Then I would take it apart, remove the jigs, glue it and screw it back together, that way everything stays in place and I do not need to buy all the clamps I do not have. Also, I find butt joints like this move around when glued without some kind of dowel, biscut, or fastener to hold it in place. Keep in mind, I will be covering the outside of this cabinet with solid maple.
The ideal way to build this cabinet "fastener free" is to use a CNC to dado the horn profile into the sides. Then one could glue it together with clamps without any slippage. I do not have the tooling for this, but maybe someone else would want to venture this path.
The other idea, that I can do, but it is very timely, would be to box joint everything together. That would mean chiseling out mortises in the sides for the horn profile. This design would not require the maple exterior, as it would be astetic in its own right.
I am right now leaning towards the glue and screw method with the maple exterior, mainly becuase I have designed a decorative pattern in the maple. Questions in reference to this method are:
Will the screws in the horn section affect the performance of the horn if counter sunk flush. Would putty over screws be better? Would putty fall out over time?
Will oozed out glue affect the horn performance?
Should the horn internals be finished? I plan on using a hand rubbed Tung Oil finish on top of an optional light stain. I love hand rubbed finishes - easy to repair!
This question is for Scott, who I have sent an additional e-mail to. This question can apply to any horn design:
I will be flush mounting the driver to the maple exterior, so will I need to adjust the compression chamber accordingly (as the driver will be "out" more)? Yes or no? You can leave the specific maths of this question in my e-mail.
I am going to bed now, as I am up bright and early to start on this tomorrow, with or without answers to these questions. I am posting them as food for thought and as a last precaution to make sure my glue and screw method is not a really bad idea! So if it is, post something right away!
Dream Big everyone!
Allen
I'm sure you'll get some better answers for the 1st 3.
1/ use bondo, not putty
2/ no, but it might affect finish (back of horn)
3/ we typically only finish the parts that will be visible. if you were finishing with something that will stiffen the wood (lacquers & such) there is a theoretical advantage, but unlikelt to make a really audibledifferences.
4/ not enuff to worry about. If you want to go nuts have a look here.http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/195469-taking-air-cavity-pre-chamber-next-level.html
dave
1/ I hate screws. Glue & clamps (lots of clamps) are what is needed.
2/ No, any glue leakage shouldn't affect the performance, but as Dave notes, it won't look so good.
3/ Different schools of thought on internal finishing. It won't do any harm, but it's not going to make much difference either.
4/ As noted, not enough to make an audible difference. The diffuse back-panel Dave details elsewhere (variations of which can be applied to other boxes) would make more difference.
2/ No, any glue leakage shouldn't affect the performance, but as Dave notes, it won't look so good.
3/ Different schools of thought on internal finishing. It won't do any harm, but it's not going to make much difference either.
4/ As noted, not enough to make an audible difference. The diffuse back-panel Dave details elsewhere (variations of which can be applied to other boxes) would make more difference.
But there are those who do not have clamps... a workaround I've found useful is to take out the screws after the wood glue has bonded, and then fill in the screw hole with dowels/chips of wood. I've used bamboo toothpicks dipped in glue to fill up the cavities that screws make. For this screwing and unscrewing, it's important to use good quality screws. The heads of shoddy screws tend to snap when tightened and that means you can't unscrew later.
Can't find clamps where I live (carpenters don't use 'em much); clamps would make life so much easier. For speaker building nuts you can't have too many clamps...
CNC dadoes on an enclosure with as many internal pieces and folds as this can certainly help with alignment of parts and eliminate need for spacer jigs, and even screws / brad nails, but certainly not clamps. Most significantly it will be a major PITA to fit the second side as we found with our flat-pak kit of the FH MkI
I'd suggest dadoing only the outside pieces on the second side, as seen here (FH3 kit)
If you do decide to dado both sides, I'd suggest you allow at least .5mm wider dadoes for play and slight thickness variations on plywood , and you probably don't need to dado deeper than 5 or 6mm on 15 or even 18mm thick material.
I'd suggest dadoing only the outside pieces on the second side, as seen here (FH3 kit)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If you do decide to dado both sides, I'd suggest you allow at least .5mm wider dadoes for play and slight thickness variations on plywood , and you probably don't need to dado deeper than 5 or 6mm on 15 or even 18mm thick material.
Cutting is coming along
Glad I sought out some final thoughts before I started cutting, as it appears screws is not the best method. I tried one on a scrap piece - they pull the plywood apart - apparently baltic birch is no better then regular plywood in this regards. So I understand where Scott is coming from. With all the time and money I have spent, it would be a shame to compremise for anything less. So I am going with plan #3 - box joints and clamps. I really do not like butt joints, especailly glueing them, they slide all over the place, and the jigs along with them. I do not have a CNC, so that is out, but that is a really good idea. So box joints and clamps it is - now I need to track down some clamps as I only have four (not near enough).
I will be doing Dave's "blocky" back chamber too. That looks really cool, it is a shame it can not be seen once the cabinets are done!
So here is the first half of the day:
What I started with... What would not fit... Done yet? No
Glad I sought out some final thoughts before I started cutting, as it appears screws is not the best method. I tried one on a scrap piece - they pull the plywood apart - apparently baltic birch is no better then regular plywood in this regards. So I understand where Scott is coming from. With all the time and money I have spent, it would be a shame to compremise for anything less. So I am going with plan #3 - box joints and clamps. I really do not like butt joints, especailly glueing them, they slide all over the place, and the jigs along with them. I do not have a CNC, so that is out, but that is a really good idea. So box joints and clamps it is - now I need to track down some clamps as I only have four (not near enough).
I will be doing Dave's "blocky" back chamber too. That looks really cool, it is a shame it can not be seen once the cabinets are done!
So here is the first half of the day:
What I started with... What would not fit... Done yet? No
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