did you remove the bias transistor? its the little one on the heat sink between the two output transistors, this will defo be faulty.
If it still trips off remove all the transistors I mentioned in earlier posts,
INFACT remove and change them anyway as some of them will have been blasted with +40V.
If it still trips off remove all the transistors I mentioned in earlier posts,
INFACT remove and change them anyway as some of them will have been blasted with +40V.
Thanks Chicco!
I will order those transistors as well
And see what differene they make.
Thanks Hugo, I think that explains why the protection relay goes off.
Hi rowemeister,
I am interested in your power supply design.
Which TX have you used, was it expensive ?
Also do you plan to update your rectifier schematics ? From the topic comments it is a bit hard to follow.
Cheers..
I will order those transistors as well
And see what differene they make.
Thanks Hugo, I think that explains why the protection relay goes off.
Hi rowemeister,
I am interested in your power supply design.
Which TX have you used, was it expensive ?
Also do you plan to update your rectifier schematics ? From the topic comments it is a bit hard to follow.
Cheers..
I'm trying to get my PM66KI working...
All the voltages in the circuit seem to check out until near the output where the resistor that's part of the Zobel network heats up, really burning hot on one channel. R771 on the schematic.
It's been suggested to me that the amp is oscillating.
All the voltages in the circuit seem to check out until near the output where the resistor that's part of the Zobel network heats up, really burning hot on one channel. R771 on the schematic.
It's been suggested to me that the amp is oscillating.
Hi Alan,
Yes, you can follow the signal straight through.
The price is relative to your expectations. They are cheap as heck compared to what I've paid for them over the years. A 20 MHz dual trace model will serve you well. They normally come with probes.
I would recommend Leader, Kenwood, Hitachi, B&K. There are more. Try not to buy the very cheapest brand.
-Chris
Yes, you can follow the signal straight through.
The price is relative to your expectations. They are cheap as heck compared to what I've paid for them over the years. A 20 MHz dual trace model will serve you well. They normally come with probes.
I would recommend Leader, Kenwood, Hitachi, B&K. There are more. Try not to buy the very cheapest brand.
-Chris
Hi Hotscot ,
I have a very low-end multi-meter that can display signals up to 200 kHz, It is realtively cheap and if you want to follow the signal for audio signals it can do the job. (Voltcraft gdm 704)
Hi Anatech,
I am strating loose my hope and already started to think alternatives like buying another amp or buy separate kits (so that I can understand what is going on) to fit in the case.
The first option is easy...
Second could be a better option as I can have a better sound for the same price... At the moment I can make use of the PM-66's case, heat sinks, and the power supply (with its HQ Elna cps), all I would need is a pre amp,and 2 mono end stages...
However I still think that this amp could be repaired... But I have no idea where to start... Ok I know the power supply is working...
I was thinking of sperating the pre and power amp parts to see whether the pre amp is working, but have no idea how to do it.
Is there anyone out there with more experience. ????
I have a very low-end multi-meter that can display signals up to 200 kHz, It is realtively cheap and if you want to follow the signal for audio signals it can do the job. (Voltcraft gdm 704)
Hi Anatech,
I am strating loose my hope and already started to think alternatives like buying another amp or buy separate kits (so that I can understand what is going on) to fit in the case.
The first option is easy...
Second could be a better option as I can have a better sound for the same price... At the moment I can make use of the PM-66's case, heat sinks, and the power supply (with its HQ Elna cps), all I would need is a pre amp,and 2 mono end stages...
However I still think that this amp could be repaired... But I have no idea where to start... Ok I know the power supply is working...
I was thinking of sperating the pre and power amp parts to see whether the pre amp is working, but have no idea how to do it.
Is there anyone out there with more experience. ????
Hi Chris,
No I am afraid this am does not have a pre-amp out
There is AN7062 IC for the pre amp, which I couldn't understand all the circutry around it...
I think I will first remove the power amp transistors (the pair) and probe the pre amp stage first... and hope it doesn't explode again
No I am afraid this am does not have a pre-amp out
There is AN7062 IC for the pre amp, which I couldn't understand all the circutry around it...
I think I will first remove the power amp transistors (the pair) and probe the pre amp stage first... and hope it doesn't explode again
Hi guys,
I receive marantz pm-66KI for repair, and I just wanna know is there any difference with 6010 or 66 model without KI on schematics...?
I have schema for 6010 and prior starting repairing if someone can answer to me I'll be happy or can send to me 66KI schema if you have on bekimh@gmail.com
thanx
I receive marantz pm-66KI for repair, and I just wanna know is there any difference with 6010 or 66 model without KI on schematics...?
I have schema for 6010 and prior starting repairing if someone can answer to me I'll be happy or can send to me 66KI schema if you have on bekimh@gmail.com
thanx
bekim said:Hi guys,
I receive marantz pm-66KI for repair, and I just wanna know is there any difference with 6010 or 66 model without KI on schematics...?
I have schema for 6010 and prior starting repairing if someone can answer to me I'll be happy or can send to me 66KI schema if you have on bekimh@gmail.com
thanx
I believe the output is the same.
I'll send sch to you
Re: Marantz Circuit
Would LOve to have the schematic. I am Using Marantz PM44SE MarkII. This also has a AN7062 as driver. I would like to make some tweaks. In combination I am Using Marnatz CD52 MarkII CD player and Speaker off Course not so branded Berhinger Studion Monitors.
My mail ID prasad1964@yahoo.com
Thanks and best regards
Prasad
Would LOve to have the schematic. I am Using Marantz PM44SE MarkII. This also has a AN7062 as driver. I would like to make some tweaks. In combination I am Using Marnatz CD52 MarkII CD player and Speaker off Course not so branded Berhinger Studion Monitors.
My mail ID prasad1964@yahoo.com
Thanks and best regards
Prasad
power cord replacement
Hi guys I had the "no sound but LED on" problem which was the blown R802.
Now I've opened it up I've got the modding bug and want to change the power cord for an IEC socket and upmarket power cord.
If I add an earth point, connected to the chassis/case and then connected to the ground planes of the PCB's will I get an earth loop.
I've tried to read threads on the subject but it seems very complicated.
Also want to do it when I mod my CD63KI.
Hepl appreciated.
Hi guys I had the "no sound but LED on" problem which was the blown R802.
Now I've opened it up I've got the modding bug and want to change the power cord for an IEC socket and upmarket power cord.
If I add an earth point, connected to the chassis/case and then connected to the ground planes of the PCB's will I get an earth loop.
I've tried to read threads on the subject but it seems very complicated.
Also want to do it when I mod my CD63KI.
Hepl appreciated.
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