Powering one single LED from a separate transformer looks like major overkill to me. In fact, a LED is a diode in forward mode, and they don't create much noise. Compared to a zener, which is a diode in reverse-mode, they are very quiet. A LED is very often used as the main voltage reference in current-sources, heck, it is even used in The Flea this way!
I think adding another transformer probably induces more noise and stray magnetic field than the LED itself, so your solution may even have an adverse effect.
Ray
LOL! I thought I was obsessive!!!
No way you need another winding just for an LED!
If you are that worried, run it off its own reg tagged on to one of the existing supplies and feed it via an inductor and ferrite bead. That will give you all the separation you need
"LOL! I thought I was obsessive!!!
No way you need another winding just for an LED!
If you are that worried, run it off its own reg tagged on to one of the existing supplies and feed it via an inductor and ferrite bead. That will give you all the separation you need."
Ray and UV101, thanks for the advice. I will re-think this.
But my question is still outstanding since I may run 1 or 2 small transformers to power different parts of the circuit:
Does anyone know of any sources for an integral small pcb which will carry a small tx plus room for the diodes, caps, regs, etc.?
I'd give e-bay a try, do a search for 'power supply board' there's plenty stuff listed there.
Yes, that's pin 3, the wiper of the trimpot.
Sure, but the value has to be the same. The ones from the player are 10pF IIRC and you need 39p and 68p for the clock. It won't work with the wrong value caps.
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Just now one of my friends' CD63 ceased to send out audio signal. He said the operation of the CD tray and selection of CDs is okay. He just cannot hear any output.
I think something is blown in the audio section. Hope it is not the DAC or the Decoder or the clock. When I have time I will check the voltages at different sections and see what is causing the problem.
I think something is blown in the audio section. Hope it is not the DAC or the Decoder or the clock. When I have time I will check the voltages at different sections and see what is causing the problem.
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My player does this intermittently. All play functions are fine, but no audio signal out. I have a 5v regulator which feeds the DAC analogue v+ (on the output side) with a loose connection and if I give that a wiggle the sound comes back. I would check that.
Hi fellows!
While still enjoying my CD43 -beside my unsync of driver now and then (dry joint)- we all here know how great can these players sound for the price we put in. For memory mine is classic DOS CFP, clocks, big TX and many dedicated regs.
But time passes, kids going older (Ray ) and I am at the point I may put a DAC board in a box. So the question is, having the top CDx3 sound in mind (remeber on a shop mine stood proudly beside a pricey (2500€ IIRC) SACD Marantz) you guys can compare to a DAC I may find superior, and advise me a good kit or board?
AVR300 you once said your Sabre DAC did it nicely? So many boards, from Twisted Pears to eBay's Weiliang's ones... rave for TDA1541 is gone?
I don't need mellow warmth and high detail, I need kick drums in my face, PRAT...
Sorry if that's a bit off topic but it's here I can have "vs CD63"
Thanks!
While still enjoying my CD43 -beside my unsync of driver now and then (dry joint)- we all here know how great can these players sound for the price we put in. For memory mine is classic DOS CFP, clocks, big TX and many dedicated regs.
But time passes, kids going older (Ray
) and I am at the point I may put a DAC board in a box. So the question is, having the top CDx3 sound in mind (remeber on a shop mine stood proudly beside a pricey (2500€ IIRC) SACD Marantz) you guys can compare to a DAC I may find superior, and advise me a good kit or board?AVR300 you once said your Sabre DAC did it nicely? So many boards, from Twisted Pears to eBay's Weiliang's ones... rave for TDA1541 is gone?
I don't need mellow warmth and high detail, I need kick drums in my face, PRAT...
Sorry if that's a bit off topic but it's here I can have "vs CD63"
Thanks!
Definitely this:
DDDAC 1794 NOS DAC - Non Oversampling DAC with PCM1794 - no digital filter - modular design DIY DAC for high resolution audio 192/24 192kHz 24bit
I've built a CD63 the same spec as yours and I've just built one of these DDDAC 1794 kits, but upgraded it with Shunt regs on the DAC boards and it's stunning. I thought my cd63 was brilliant, and it still is very enjoyable, but this DDDAC kit is truly another level of clarity. I just love it.
There's a good thread on it on the forums here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...-nos-192-24-dac-pcm1794-waveio-usb-input.html
Ray, finally got my password reset so can log in as ME....
I've fitted a seperate PSU for my clock, rebuilt clock, hopefully today/tomorrow will have the clock installed and running but first does the PSU 0v need to be connected to CD player ground? (I'm assuming it does to complete the circuit for the clock signal).
Tom
I've fitted a seperate PSU for my clock, rebuilt clock, hopefully today/tomorrow will have the clock installed and running but first does the PSU 0v need to be connected to CD player ground? (I'm assuming it does to complete the circuit for the clock signal).
Tom
Installed and so far seems to work ok without connecting PSU 0V to player ground.
Tom
I just used the 47R resistor leg straight through the clock PCB into the player board.
Just had a listen at home (Cambridge Audio A1 amp (modified) and monitor Audio BR2s)
Very nice indeed, clearer with slightly tighter base, which also sounds as though it has a bit more punch.
Tom
Just had a listen at home (Cambridge Audio A1 amp (modified) and monitor Audio BR2s)
Very nice indeed, clearer with slightly tighter base, which also sounds as though it has a bit more punch.
Tom
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