The price is unfair and a rip off for the componenents on the board, the cost of manufacture etc.
I don't work in the realms of DIY audio, I work as a professional PCB designer for many firms covering all aspects of design work from high volume cost conscious designs to top end space/medical and military stuff (and have done for over 28 years). I have worked on all aspects of product design and know how products are developed, how costing works etc. so I stand by my qualified comments regarding this product...It is a power supply with an oscillator on it, nothing special, it hasn't even got a socket on for using co-ax cable.
Welcome to reality, not audio fashion prices....
I don't work in the realms of DIY audio, I work as a professional PCB designer for many firms covering all aspects of design work from high volume cost conscious designs to top end space/medical and military stuff (and have done for over 28 years). I have worked on all aspects of product design and know how products are developed, how costing works etc. so I stand by my qualified comments regarding this product...It is a power supply with an oscillator on it, nothing special, it hasn't even got a socket on for using co-ax cable.
Welcome to reality, not audio fashion prices....
In that case I bow to your superior knowledge and wonder why such an accomplished engineer hasn't manufactured the king of all clocks for us mere DIYers to build for £40 each!
And how is you salary paid if the products you design are sold for the trade cost of parts?
This reminds me why I don't come here very often anymore!
Come on, guys.
One of the great things about this thread for me is the respect in which we hold others' opinions. There is at times a difference of opinion, but at all times there has been civility and an absence of nastiness and cruelty, which characterises many other boards.
Please do not allow this thread to degenerate to the low levels of other boards.
One of the great things about this thread for me is the respect in which we hold others' opinions. There is at times a difference of opinion, but at all times there has been civility and an absence of nastiness and cruelty, which characterises many other boards.
Please do not allow this thread to degenerate to the low levels of other boards.
In that case I bow to your superior knowledge and wonder why such an accomplished engineer hasn't manufactured the king of all clocks for us mere DIYers to build for £40 each!
And how is you salary paid if the products you design are sold for the trade cost of parts?
This reminds me why I don't come here very often anymore!
I'm out of here, cant argue with children who have no idea what they are going on about.
If you stepped back from your righteous bile and looked at the super clock, all it is a regulator with an oscillator on it, nothing special and nothing outside of the ability of many on this site.
I didn't say products were sold for the cost of their parts, that is your take on things.
You do not have to get so aggressive over someone's comment on a product, it is not really in the spirit of DIYAudio.
Is that kind of comment really required from such a "mature" person.
Righteous bile! OK! (see previous comment)
No but you DID suggest that the cost of the parts was £40 and were quite happy that it suggested huge profits without taking any development costs and other business overheads into consideration.
The same can be said for yourself.
Wow, this thread is biiig! When I used to frequent this thread (under a different name I can't remember!) I thought it was big at 200+ pages!
It's a few years since I last opened up the cdp due to a young family. So far I've done the work to the DAC as detailed on acounstica.org, I've tapped the 10v supply just above the reg and fed regulated supply to the pin 27 digital and the analogue pins. I've bypassed the output via two caps to the rca's. Opamps changed to LM4562N, plenty of cap upgrades, ferrites etc.
All has been fine until today when it died! It appears to be the tx, there's no V on the output side, possibly the internal fuse. As it appears to be the tx I'm thinking the next logical step would be to fit new toroidal tx's. As it's such a long thread can anyone point to a part where this is detailed, or give an overview of what's needed? Many thanks.
It's a few years since I last opened up the cdp due to a young family. So far I've done the work to the DAC as detailed on acounstica.org, I've tapped the 10v supply just above the reg and fed regulated supply to the pin 27 digital and the analogue pins. I've bypassed the output via two caps to the rca's. Opamps changed to LM4562N, plenty of cap upgrades, ferrites etc.
All has been fine until today when it died! It appears to be the tx, there's no V on the output side, possibly the internal fuse. As it appears to be the tx I'm thinking the next logical step would be to fit new toroidal tx's. As it's such a long thread can anyone point to a part where this is detailed, or give an overview of what's needed? Many thanks.
If you want to change the TXs, I have posted a circuit diagram and how the 3 TXs is arranged somewhere in 1500 thread. I can't remember the exact location but you can go through it as I have attached some photos there.
I can assure you that apart from the clock change, you will notice a BIG BIG improvement in SQ after changing the TXs with bigger VAs. GOOD LUCK.
I can assure you that apart from the clock change, you will notice a BIG BIG improvement in SQ after changing the TXs with bigger VAs. GOOD LUCK.
Just looking at the output from the opamps (LM4562), it looks like I've taken the output direct to the RCAs via a 2.2uF polypropylene cap and a resistor (not measured yet). I know why I put the cap there but the resistor? Surely this is not needed? I suspect the idea was something to do with oscillation but I can't see that being an issue? I'm very rusty!
Just reading the original few posts and it mentions decoupling the muting lines. Looking at my board it looks like I've not done that. I don't quite understand what is needed; I'm taking it a cap is placed from the wires at U222/3 to ground on each one. I'm not sure where the output is decoupled?
Hi guys,
I got my hands on a second cd-63 but this time is the se version and not the standard one.I said to my self to try to mod this one too and i did it yesterday.On the standard cd63,all the big power supply and servo caps are hardwired to pcb.On the se i have remove the internal/external remote switch on the back of the player for the big caps to install on existing space.I have also change the 2 x 1000pf caps to 470pf caps to modify the output filter.
Well i hook up the player but it doesn't read the disks.It says disk all the time and not spinning.Is that has to do anything with the remote switch i have remove?I have just remove it.I haven't short anything under the pcb.I need help here guys.
On the standard one what ever i did to it...allways start playing.The se which is made in Singapoore,the standard is made in Japan, the quality control between them is huge difference in favor of the Japan model.
Thanasis.
I got my hands on a second cd-63 but this time is the se version and not the standard one.I said to my self to try to mod this one too and i did it yesterday.On the standard cd63,all the big power supply and servo caps are hardwired to pcb.On the se i have remove the internal/external remote switch on the back of the player for the big caps to install on existing space.I have also change the 2 x 1000pf caps to 470pf caps to modify the output filter.
Well i hook up the player but it doesn't read the disks.It says disk all the time and not spinning.Is that has to do anything with the remote switch i have remove?I have just remove it.I haven't short anything under the pcb.I need help here guys.
On the standard one what ever i did to it...allways start playing.The se which is made in Singapoore,the standard is made in Japan, the quality control between them is huge difference in favor of the Japan model.
Thanasis.
P00 is just the first test program. It has a bunch of them which you can cycle through with the Next/Prev track button, testing the individual components of the transport. If it encounters a problem, it'll display one of the error codes listed in the manual. If it can't detect the presence of the disc in the first place then you're probably looking at something pretty fundamental. If it worked fine before you opened the box then I'd probably start by double checking the ribbons, etc., are seated properly and then start looking for hairline cracks in PCB traces caused by flexing the PCB. The continuity test mode on your digital multimeter is good for this, as they aren't always visibly apparent.