adfinni said:Simon, i think im gonna take brent on at his mechanism fixing game. I might submerge the whole player in oil, ,then it will have all the lubrication it ever needs
Allan, I cerainly won't be throwing it out. Spares will be easily had from it, especially replacements like the chips (Q105/106 etc, dac, servo, etc etc) and as you said soldering practise will be great.
Fixing it will be hard though
edit. Hey brent. Cheers for that advice, il remove all of the grease. Even though on my current player there doesn't seem to be much at all. Lucky me
If you submerge your mech you will have to buy oil that has good optical properties
Also a it needs to be very thin oil so the disc has minimum drag on it. LOL
Brent
6h5c said:
That's very well possible, I found this opamp to be quite upfront, with lots of treble, in-your-face so to speak. You may try some decoupling directly at the PSU pins (4 & 8). Or AD8620
Ray.
I decoupled the opamps now with 220nF from pin 4 to 8. When I listened to it i felt the sound become a bit more natural.
Also removed C659 and C660, what do these do by the way?
The guy i bought the cd63 off from ebay has sent me a paypal refund
EDIT. Just got a message back saying he switched it on put a disk in then it died:
Just got another msg:
Do you guys reckon it's worth me paying for the postage, then getting the unit for free to fix, or does it sound terminal?
thanks
adam
EDIT. Just got a message back saying he switched it on put a disk in then it died:
Just got another msg:
Do you guys reckon it's worth me paying for the postage, then getting the unit for free to fix, or does it sound terminal?
thanks
adam
Hi All,
More help needed.
I've been having trouble too, and not much time to fix it.
It all happened when I fitted the bipolar output stage that it went wrong (I do not suspect the bipolar stage).
Having removed it, still not working.
Anyway, I did have it so that it span like crazy as well. This appears to be a dry joint from one of 5v regs to XVDD on the DAC, which I assume is the circuit that then buffers/repeats the clock on to the decoder and the rest of the player.
Anyway, fixed that, now have the situation where it makes all the right (mechanical) noises when you put a disc in, but doesn't spin.
Service mode states Err 10, which apparently means radial.
Does anyone know what that can mean?
I know its one of the servo signals, and interestingly its on the one servo driver that hasn't been modded yet. But I don't know what it does.
I suspected the dodgy ribbon cable, it was looking a bit worn out, so I retinned the ends, to no avail (but thankfuly didn't make anything worse).
Alas, I'm away on business next week, so can discuss this, but can't try anything. Ho hum.
Itching to fix this, my unmodded CD41 really sounds bad.
Seriously thinking of getting another off of Ebay, if only for spare parts. My player has been dismantled a lot. I don't think it always likes it.
Cheers,
Phil
More help needed.
I've been having trouble too, and not much time to fix it.
It all happened when I fitted the bipolar output stage that it went wrong (I do not suspect the bipolar stage).
Having removed it, still not working.
Anyway, I did have it so that it span like crazy as well. This appears to be a dry joint from one of 5v regs to XVDD on the DAC, which I assume is the circuit that then buffers/repeats the clock on to the decoder and the rest of the player.
Anyway, fixed that, now have the situation where it makes all the right (mechanical) noises when you put a disc in, but doesn't spin.
Service mode states Err 10, which apparently means radial.
Does anyone know what that can mean?
I know its one of the servo signals, and interestingly its on the one servo driver that hasn't been modded yet. But I don't know what it does.
I suspected the dodgy ribbon cable, it was looking a bit worn out, so I retinned the ends, to no avail (but thankfuly didn't make anything worse).
Alas, I'm away on business next week, so can discuss this, but can't try anything. Ho hum.
Itching to fix this, my unmodded CD41 really sounds bad.
Seriously thinking of getting another off of Ebay, if only for spare parts. My player has been dismantled a lot. I don't think it always likes it.
Cheers,
Phil
adfinni said:Have a look on page 1 of this thread. THe 67ose .pdf is right there
(bugger! IE crashed and I lost my reply GRRR! Anyway, again...)
Ad Mate, that's not the service manual you see but a list of Raymondo's mods to his CD67, which is recommended reading for anyone starting work on their player. Also you must read Rowe's long list.
As far as I can remember there's been no CD67 manual posted here, but it's mostly the same as the CD63. The muting circuit is different though I believe.
Simon
adfinni said:
I really shold actually think before posting
lol
It seems there are now a few of us with CD63 problems! I put my display-less 63 back together last night to play tunes for a mate and a couple of times it did the cutting out thing again. Very frustrating.
To anyone thinking about embarking on a modding plan, please please take it very slowly and handle the pcb with kidgloves. It is extremely fragile and the player can stop working for no apparent reason. Simon
SimontY said:
lol
It seems there are now a few of us with CD63 problems! I put my display-less 63 back together last night to play tunes for a mate and a couple of times it did the cutting out thing again. Very frustrating.
Simon
Now now Simon you are making the Marantz pcbs sound cheap and crap!!!
Any pcb will develop problems if your are not entirely kind to it
I have had no problems other than the pesky ribbon connector which unfortunatly is not designed to be pluged and unpluged hundreds of times LOL
Thing is though you learn more from your mistakes which is a good thing
Brent
Hey
I have been measuring voltages on my dead 63 today and have found out that the lines supplied by the glass resistors FH11/12 are dead. I can't get any voltage readings from these resistors or anything else after them.
My question is, when whatever blew around QM01, will it kill the voltages supplied after the component that blew, and still leave a circuit so that voltages can be read before the blown component.
I'm just wondering if it would be obvious that those glass resistors had gone, and should i get another pair? Which ones do you recommend i get if i do need them, and can i get them from maplins?
I ask, as im not sure if they are quick or slow blow, and what exact ratings i need other than what is listed in teh service manual (1.6A, T630ma?)
ta
I have been measuring voltages on my dead 63 today and have found out that the lines supplied by the glass resistors FH11/12 are dead. I can't get any voltage readings from these resistors or anything else after them.
My question is, when whatever blew around QM01, will it kill the voltages supplied after the component that blew, and still leave a circuit so that voltages can be read before the blown component.
I'm just wondering if it would be obvious that those glass resistors had gone, and should i get another pair? Which ones do you recommend i get if i do need them, and can i get them from maplins?
I ask, as im not sure if they are quick or slow blow, and what exact ratings i need other than what is listed in teh service manual (1.6A, T630ma?)
ta