gy21 said:
No problem. Your question is difficult to understand. I think you are suggesting one cap has the + lead of cap to voltage and the ground lead to ground, and the other cap has the ground lead to the voltage and its + lead to ground.
That's exceptionally unclear, but anyway, it's a split psu where there's + and - voltage, so one cap has the + side attached to the ground (anywhere on the player), and the other is connected as you expect. To be honest it confused me so I simply checked against the caps that supply it. The red Elna Cerafines on top I believe. All you are doing is repeating those caps but closer up to the chips.
Hope this helps.
Simon
adfinni said:'Last night , they were all there '
You mean xd01, cd02/03, rd02?
With my audicom clock output in the top hole of cd01 and the gnd cable in thr right hand hole of cd03, obviously xd01, cd02/03 were removec, and rd02 also. U106 remained. Is that all correct?
Check the voltages around QM01, it controls speed.
Right was just testing things, and replaced R127/128 as they seemed to only produce a voltage reading on one side?
Q105: voltages seemed to be correct
QM01 and Q106 seemed to have 9V on pin 1's which should both be 0v
Played around a little more and something around QM01 just went BOOM, accompanied by some smoke signalsI can even see the little indians down there dancing around the fire
Thank god i just bought another cd-63 off ebay for £17
This is fun
edit, i broke the quoting feature too so quotes are in red
Hi.
Smoke, eh?
Some form of audio / visual experience ?
Did the smell enhance the music ?
What disks did you play ?
Wheels on fire - Brian Auger
Fire - Arther Brown
Light my fire - Doors
Seriously - bad luck !
A fortunate purchase on Ebay though !
R127 / 128 are safety resistors designated fuses on the component list.
I suspected something wrong as the - voltage on Q105 was at -7v according to your previous post - something drawing current.
When you get your new player, I would be very wary in replacing components with those from the now dead cdp.[clock and psu excluded]
Cheers and good luck
Andy
poynton said:
Ye ye ye, rub it in! I actually had on one of my favourite albums; 'Fat of the land', and the only suitable track; Firestarter
The smell did enhance the music and my mood, as the smoke seemed to smell like incense.
Well when i was checking voltages i heard a pop/spark, like i had accidentally touched 2 pins on QM01 with the multimeter probe (which i hadn't). About 3 seconds later the smoke starts bellowing from around R127/128 and QM01. I'm not sure exactly what went up.
Other than the clock + it's PSU, what other parts would you recommend i salvage, and which should be left. I will probably take out the op-amps and the caps around them, and probably the caps and schottky diodes in the PSU area. I'm not sure about C813-815?
Cheers
p.s. Thanks for the link where to get another CDM from
gy21 said:
Hi,
It seems to be an idea yes! It's been discussed, but it's hard to find things now the thread is so huge. Ray recommended, after very varied testing, OPA132 (2132 but single, not dual) and OPA627. You of course need a Browndog adaptor to fit two single opamps onto one DIL socket. I use 2x OPA627bp non-surface mount and love it (http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=9).
http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/ for various adaptors. Most sensible one is the two surface mount one, which is smaller and will fit on better.
Btw, your question is confused. You can't use two different dual op-amps, unless you want left and right to sound different! To mix flavours you need to put two single op-amps on a single to dual adapter. I think to use AD825/6 you need a surface mount adapter.
Simon
gy21 said:ah ok, yes I read somthing on mixing opamps, but it was only about single opamps.
now i know why
one dual for lef one dual for right, I got confused.
Ok forget my post on this.
Oh well, it may have clarified it for somebody out there. My pre-amp has a dual for one stage and a 2nd dual for another, which could confuse me somewhat... (left and right in each op-amp chip)
SimontY said:
Hehe. Nice spot simon. I was waiting to see how long it would take someone to see it
Andy, i got a reply from the cd63 seller about the player and it was pretty helpful, and explained what i already expected:
I bought it in 1996 and used it for 3 years, then it started to skip
when playing unscratched CDs. I had it serviced and the
engineer said it was just the slider guides that the laser sat on
that needed re-lubricated. It worked perfectly after that but I
haven't used it for years and the last time I did I noticed it
skipped twice on a CD I was playing. It could have been the CD
that time though, I didn't check. Hope this makes sense. Let me
know what you want to do.
adam
adfinni said:
Hehe. Nice spot simon. I was waiting to see how long it would take someone to see it
Andy, i got a reply from the cd63 seller about the player and it was pretty helpful, and explained what i already expected:
I bought it in 1996 and used it for 3 years, then it started to skip
when playing unscratched CDs. I had it serviced and the
engineer said it was just the slider guides that the laser sat on
that needed re-lubricated. It worked perfectly after that but I
haven't used it for years and the last time I did I noticed it
skipped twice on a CD I was playing. It could have been the CD
that time though, I didn't check. Hope this makes sense. Let me
know what you want to do.
adam
the new one might just need the lens cleaned
allan
SimontY said:Hi,
Sounds rather like the common fault Brent's always banging on about... I'd expect him to chime in once he's finished upgrading various players, lol!
Simon
LMAO
Bang on time...
Its defo the guide bars. The grease goes dry.
But the engineer should not have lubricated the bars as it goes dry again in that old grease especially when stood. I have never had a problem with one that I have completely removed the grease on.
Its a very good traverse and the grease just causes problems.
Brent
FTAO RAY
Opamp decoupling, whats the best way to do this?
I was thinking of the 10uF BG cap across +/- pin 4 and 8 and also the smt 220nF.
And then pin 4 to gnd via BG NX 470nF bipolar and the same on pin 8.
I will have to run wire from star earth to these caps.
They have arrived and will be fitted tomorrow
Brent
Opamp decoupling, whats the best way to do this?
I was thinking of the 10uF BG cap across +/- pin 4 and 8 and also the smt 220nF.
And then pin 4 to gnd via BG NX 470nF bipolar and the same on pin 8.
I will have to run wire from star earth to these caps.
They have arrived and will be fitted tomorrow
Brent
Simon, i think im gonna take brent on at his mechanism fixing game. I might submerge the whole player in oil, ,then it will have all the lubrication it ever needs
Allan, I cerainly won't be throwing it out. Spares will be easily had from it, especially replacements like the chips (Q105/106 etc, dac, servo, etc etc) and as you said soldering practise will be great.
Fixing it will be hard though
edit. Hey brent. Cheers for that advice, il remove all of the grease. Even though on my current player there doesn't seem to be much at all. Lucky me
Allan, I cerainly won't be throwing it out. Spares will be easily had from it, especially replacements like the chips (Q105/106 etc, dac, servo, etc etc) and as you said soldering practise will be great.
Fixing it will be hard though
edit. Hey brent. Cheers for that advice, il remove all of the grease. Even though on my current player there doesn't seem to be much at all. Lucky me