Have you measured the 5V resistors feeding the decoder , dac , servo. They may have gone a little high in value.
Brent
Thanks for the reply. Yes, checked all the pins, all OK according to schematics.
I can see this getting beyond my knowledge quite soon. Can you elaborate. Should I measure volts or ohms. Thanks.
Aaarrrgghhh! No forum emails again!!!
Anyway.. Shep you will always have edge / spittiness etc until you run all the digital chips on their own low noise supplies. I am a believer in you hear your psu's. I get so called high end cdps here at work where the player is based on a cheaper Sony or Philips etc and they make the output better, yes they sound better than the player they're based on but still have that edge, that digital nastiness that can only be removed with psu improvements.
Figures...hell it's only money
The C1 improves quite abit by running it off a dedicated psu, the C1 as standard uses a very low noise 3.3V Vref regulator but benefits from isolation.
Brent
Ohms
Ignoring the error codes. What exactly does the cd player do or not do. Does the disc spin etc
Brent
The disc spins but does not read. All was ok before the decoder mods, but i cannot find any probs with supply or output from that.
Thanks for your help.
Steve
OK, did that. Disc spun up for a few secs, stopped , then spun up again a few secs and stopped. Same as with the ribbon plugged in. Thanks for helping me on this, Steve
I have the strut brace. I don't see how to put a second plate. The bottom of the 67 is all lumps and bumps. How did they make the 63 with a bottom plate? Maybe it's doubled from inside? Actually it's all the add-ons that have put the machine out of ballance, even with four cones. Don't know if it makes much dif. but I like the idea of a chassis sitting squarely on it's feet!
The 2nd plate comes on the higher spec models from the factory and goes outside IIRC.
I never had balance problems with mine. I had one cone under the main transformer at the back centre, and two at the front, widely spaced out. It worked out just fine. Adding plenty of bitumen inside the player will ballast it down and help to prevent skidding.
I never had balance problems with mine. I had one cone under the main transformer at the back centre, and two at the front, widely spaced out. It worked out just fine. Adding plenty of bitumen inside the player will ballast it down and help to prevent skidding.
I've got 2x KI bottom plates fitted on mine sandwiching bitumen with the top plate being bonded with aluminium paste to the chassis
The standard chassis without the 1.5mm steel plate is pretty flimsy, the plate is on the outside and is cut to fit around the raised tx area.
Shep you need a faulty KI so you can swap the tx and drop it all into the new chassis.
Brent
The standard chassis without the 1.5mm steel plate is pretty flimsy, the plate is on the outside and is cut to fit around the raised tx area.
Shep you need a faulty KI so you can swap the tx and drop it all into the new chassis.
Brent
I know, you keep saying that! Regarding the ebony cones: I will go out on a thin limb and say they maybe bring a slight relaxation. On the minus side they are short (my choice) so it's hard to get them in the right place. Also they are alarmingly slippery so the player is a moveable feast! I am following the sellers advice and not attaching them with sticky tape or anything. Makes sort of sense but highly impractical. The way the 67 is made, the weight is not at all evenly ballanced. IF I ever came across a junked KI ( fat chance in the French country-side) I'll be sure to canabalize!