How did you manage to do that?
The good old 1541 draws a substantial amount of current, so it's normal it runs warm, just like the SAA7220. Now you are seeing ghosts in your CD43 Ray
How did you manage to do that?
Ray
Hi Ray,
In fact no proof It's fried, with 3x super regs around it, almost "on" it to be as close as possible, a thick plastic box and just the top lid and a part of bottom of metal, heat from SAA7220 and SAA7310's regs, heat from the yet tiny discrete output... then a badly reclocked and unstable TDA's BCL clock... wich leads to more heat I've been said... then it started to unsync until no sync at all and now, even in factory form, dead silent... the only way to be certain is to fit a new TDA :'( the expensive way... or plunder the 40 to fit in the 43...
As for the CD43, I've investigated, heat mainly comes from the DOS' regs and regs voltage drop around as my 5Vs are on a 16V PSU. I have a 12 near, may replace it. The proximity of the amp in normal condition and the wamed wood furniture does not help...
And Shepp what's your secret, Ricardo and I want to know
Nice Ray!
I may find some if I decide to fix it. A stand alone DAC based on a TDA1541A may be a good project, still can enjoy my CD43 and look for other digital sources with that DAC. Any good TDA1541A based one to advice for? Selling the almost NOS CDM4, then the class A output and the remote may fully pay for a DAC...
As for the CD43, added heatsink on DOS (oops, see that small package... my mistake) and on reg on the super reg -wich is very close to lid and made that "hot spot"-.
Changed that 15.5V PSU, feeding 5V regs, to the 10.5V one, added a spare cap. Defo worth the 4.25€ put of the CD43
But, as all my TX here, really all, even the 12V for spot lights and clock-radio, they are humming. Stupid or not, but does humming cause some heat on TX? Ricardo told of PSU not linked to heat in his player, in my case all the TX are hot, not warm, hot. TDA1541's ones also...were...
Matthieu
I may find some if I decide to fix it. A stand alone DAC based on a TDA1541A may be a good project, still can enjoy my CD43 and look for other digital sources with that DAC. Any good TDA1541A based one to advice for? Selling the almost NOS CDM4, then the class A output and the remote may fully pay for a DAC...
As for the CD43, added heatsink on DOS (oops, see that small package... my mistake) and on reg on the super reg -wich is very close to lid and made that "hot spot"-.
Changed that 15.5V PSU, feeding 5V regs, to the 10.5V one, added a spare cap. Defo worth the 4.25€ put of the CD43
But, as all my TX here, really all, even the 12V for spot lights and clock-radio, they are humming. Stupid or not, but does humming cause some heat on TX? Ricardo told of PSU not linked to heat in his player, in my case all the TX are hot, not warm, hot. TDA1541's ones also...were...
Matthieu
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I harvested the TDA and SAA chips for the DAC from a CD40 I found cheap here . It didn't have many hours, so I saved the CDM mech as a spare for my CD72.
Does the original tranny in your player also get too hot? If so, it could be mains related in your case, and not caused by the load. If everything is humming this is an indication of distorted sinewave or DC components on the mains.
As an experiment, you could try a DC blocking circuit in series with the player's mains. It is basically two big caps back-to-back with four diodes in parallel to prevent voltages get too high. If the humming stops, it's DC. You can find an example of this circuit in the Balanced Mains Filter PDF on my site. WARNING: mains voltage can kill!
Ray
. It didn't have many hours, so I saved the CDM mech as a spare for my CD72.Does the original tranny in your player also get too hot? If so, it could be mains related in your case, and not caused by the load. If everything is humming this is an indication of distorted sinewave or DC components on the mains.
As an experiment, you could try a DC blocking circuit in series with the player's mains. It is basically two big caps back-to-back with four diodes in parallel to prevent voltages get too high. If the humming stops, it's DC. You can find an example of this circuit in the Balanced Mains Filter PDF on my site. WARNING: mains voltage can kill!
Ray
Ray,
yes that CD40 PSU also get hot as the ones in the CD43. And the new TX in does humms so much that's almost a bzzzzzzz... endless issues ! I've tried to hold it between fingers: the main CD43's PSU, wich is a bit thermally linked to the lid via copper covered screws, is hot, the "in air" new buzzing TX with no radiator nor link (may put a piece of aluminium on one of the iron's side), this one is hotter, I guess hotter by 5/10°C will be hard to hold in hand.
I'll the CD40 on stop for a couple of hours and check the TX heat. In this one only the Flea's TX added, all my regs were fed by the factory's TX. On stop load may be few, heat there will defo find a faulty main.
About the DC, can't I just check it with my DMM or it's hidden and can't been easily detected? The caps are 10.000µF but only 25V? It's DC voltage related?
yes that CD40 PSU also get hot as the ones in the CD43. And the new TX in does humms so much that's almost a bzzzzzzz... endless issues ! I've tried to hold it between fingers: the main CD43's PSU, wich is a bit thermally linked to the lid via copper covered screws, is hot, the "in air" new buzzing TX with no radiator nor link (may put a piece of aluminium on one of the iron's side), this one is hotter, I guess hotter by 5/10°C will be hard to hold in hand.
I'll the CD40 on stop for a couple of hours and check the TX heat. In this one only the Flea's TX added, all my regs were fed by the factory's TX. On stop load may be few, heat there will defo find a faulty main.
About the DC, can't I just check it with my DMM or it's hidden and can't been easily detected? The caps are 10.000µF but only 25V? It's DC voltage related?
CD43 seems cooler, a bit, just a warm spot on the lid around the drivers's regs, the hottest of them all, then DOS. Other with less voltage drop are fine.
As for main/hum/heat issue, the CD40 TX is hot, hard to say much as touching is not easy because of plastic surround, and the only TX free is very hot, it's the Flea's one. Does a Flea driving 2 logics burn that power? Same as the CD43: TX mechanically linked to player (ground, lid...) are hot (45°C?), TX free of contact are very hot, (50°C?) more or less humming.
As for the TDA1541A's reg, they all run very very hot, even with no music. Guess a fried IC does that :'(
Houston, we have a problem.
As for main/hum/heat issue, the CD40 TX is hot, hard to say much as touching is not easy because of plastic surround, and the only TX free is very hot, it's the Flea's one. Does a Flea driving 2 logics burn that power? Same as the CD43: TX mechanically linked to player (ground, lid...) are hot (45°C?), TX free of contact are very hot, (50°C?) more or less humming.
As for the TDA1541A's reg, they all run very very hot, even with no music. Guess a fried IC does that :'(
Houston, we have a problem.
Hi Shepperd,
it drives me crazy...
About feet, someone here ever tried the simple and effective half squash ball?
http://www.avforums.com/forums/hi-fi-systems-separates/747846-squash-balls-soft-isolation-pics.html
Need a nice cut and best under a piece of wood, then the equipment.
As for me right now I've some o-rings for tap, smaller in diameter than the feet and between feet and chassis, center prior to screw the feet just a bit and just enough. It makes the gear less sensible to vibrations, and so cheap
Matthieu overheated.
it drives me crazy...
About feet, someone here ever tried the simple and effective half squash ball?
http://www.avforums.com/forums/hi-fi-systems-separates/747846-squash-balls-soft-isolation-pics.html
Need a nice cut and best under a piece of wood, then the equipment.
As for me right now I've some o-rings for tap, smaller in diameter than the feet and between feet and chassis, center prior to screw the feet just a bit and just enough. It makes the gear less sensible to vibrations, and so cheap
Matthieu overheated.
You could give it a try, but most DMM's get confused with a large AC component on DC range. The caps can be low voltage indeed. For AC, the caps don't seem to exsist, they have a very low impedance at 50Hz: Z = 1 / (2 * pi * f * C), so that would be about 0.3 ohms for a 10.000uF cap. For DC, the two diodes that are in parallel will start to conduct if the voltage across the caps gets larger than ~1.4V. So in theory you could even use 3.3V caps
Ray
Very good advice, take a deep breath and do something else for a while...
It can be quite frustrating now and then.
Ray
It's not really 5V DC, but the signal is a square wave with low and high levels around 0V and 5V. Do you want to connect it to an other IC that runs on a 2.5V supply voltage? If so, you can reduce the signal to 2.5V by using a simple voltage divider with two resistors, one in series with the data-line and behind that one to ground.
Ray