rowemeister said:Conclusion.
The clock psu pre reg has brought better more crisp treble, symbols are more noticable etc.
The earth has brought loads more bass, I must admit I am suprised by how much it has helped.
I will post updated mods list soon
Im very happy
You can't be happy ..... there are still bits you haven't touched !!!
awpagan said:Ray
what's the clock signal like before and after the 560pF cap on the scope.
the cap should stop the dc and the cap size depends only on frequency ie doesn't distort the clock.
please correct me if i'm wrong
allan
ps could to see the patient's still alive
??dc out of dac??
Hi Allan,
The shape of the clock looks the same before and after the cap, so I guess it's big enough. I can't check the square wave though, on my 20MHz scope
The DC offset appears to come out of the decoder's input circuit.
The DAC's output is 0V.
Ray.
tms2000 said:
Hi tms2000,
Do you mean the 470 ohm? If I recall the smallest Kiwame are 2W, and they are quite big. I would recommend to use the smallest (in size) resistor you can get. It carries 16.9MHz, so you don't want it to act like an antenna. I used a 0603 SMD resistor.
Regards,
Ray.
tms2000 said:
I don't know actually, it never crossed my mind to use anything more expensive than standard metal film in digital circuits. Technically carbon resistors are more noisy compared to metal film. So that could be a reason not to use them. I know some people like carbons in analog circuits because they sound different. I don't think that will be the case here. A digital "1" or "0" should not be influenced by this.
Anyone else has some thoughts on this?
Regards,
Ray.
I fitted the audicom superlock 2, and my custom PSU (very kindly made by andy), and after assembling, IT STILL WORKS.
I also added a common-mode filter, as suggested by ray, and replaced a few caps near the HF/LPF and near the caps C813/814/815, with the elna cerafines that i replaced in the op-amp area.
I have to say that the increase in SQ was easily noticable. The bass is greatly improved, and the music just sounds soo much deeper. This increase in the amount of separation between the sounds is just huge.
Have just put some crystal method (electronica) on now, and it just amazes me how good this player sounds, even after only stage 1 of my mods.
A big thank you goes out to ray, simon, and andy for all the help so far.
@ andy. That's chin up for the guy who killed his 6000OSE and recieved someones F£$cked up modified 63. That soldering does look masterful though
Now, time to figure out how the hell to mount my +/- 12V, and 5V super-regs
edit. some pics:
I also added a common-mode filter, as suggested by ray, and replaced a few caps near the HF/LPF and near the caps C813/814/815, with the elna cerafines that i replaced in the op-amp area.
I have to say that the increase in SQ was easily noticable. The bass is greatly improved, and the music just sounds soo much deeper. This increase in the amount of separation between the sounds is just huge.
Have just put some crystal method (electronica) on now, and it just amazes me how good this player sounds, even after only stage 1 of my mods.
A big thank you goes out to ray, simon, and andy for all the help so far.
@ andy. That's chin up for the guy who killed his 6000OSE and recieved someones F£$cked up modified 63. That soldering does look masterful though
Now, time to figure out how the hell to mount my +/- 12V, and 5V super-regs
edit. some pics:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
adfinni said:I fitted the audicom superlock 2, and my custom PSU (very kindly made by andy), and after assembling, IT STILL WORKS.
I also added a common-mode filter, as suggested by ray, and replaced a few caps near the HF/LPF and near the caps C813/814/815, with the elna cerafines that i replaced in the op-amp area.
I have to say that the increase in SQ was easily noticable. The bass is greatly improved, and the music just sounds soo much deeper. This increase in the amount of separation between the sounds is just huge.
Have just put some crystal method (electronica) on now, and it just amazes me how good this player sounds, even after only stage 1 of my mods.
A big thank you goes out to ray, simon, and andy for all the help so far.
@ andy. That's chin up for the guy who killed his 6000OSE and recieved someones F£$cked up modified 63. That soldering does look masterful though
Now, time to figure out how the hell to mount my +/- 12V, and 5V super-regs
Shouldn't your footnote now say 'modded CD63 MkII..?
The CD6000 is now 'going' but is giving error 10 !
poynton said:
Lol, sort of. 'Ad Stage 1 Modified' at the moment.
Stage 2: Fitting of IEC socket, Bitumen dampening all over, Soundcare superspikes, copper shielding of main 4 chips.
Stage 3: OPA627's in BD's, new caps around op-amps (silver micas etc).
That'l be me done then !
But stage 1.5 in the next week will be fitting new Schottky diodes in PSU area, and fitting of 3x audiocom regs. Il need some help with those, as i don't want to put the shottky's in the wrong way around and blow my player