paronaram said:
Any transformer will do almost equally well for a clock, as long as it's small enough to fit in the player. The primary benefit of running it from its own supply is that it can't pollute other supplies.
With that said 1.5VA is very small, so please check the current draw of the clock you intend to use.
Simon
Still having problems with picture upload here, so I parked my picture elsewhere:
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2111/clockkitqm7.jpg
This is a clock kit that I received recently.
Will post more pictures upon completion assembling...
PS Thanks Simon, will look around for more powerful one.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2111/clockkitqm7.jpg
This is a clock kit that I received recently.
Will post more pictures upon completion assembling...
PS Thanks Simon, will look around for more powerful one.
Can anyone tell me why, when I connect my cd63 to my preamp using cables that are connected at both ends with signal and earth, I get a massive hum sound? The music is also present.
But, if I connect using interconnects which only have the gnd wires connected at the source end the sound is perfect.
I'm confused over this. My cd94 is perfect no matter which cable. Oh and only one piece of kit (the power amp) is connected to safety (house) earth
Any ideas guys?
Lee.
But, if I connect using interconnects which only have the gnd wires connected at the source end the sound is perfect.
I'm confused over this. My cd94 is perfect no matter which cable. Oh and only one piece of kit (the power amp) is connected to safety (house) earth
Any ideas guys?
Lee.
Sorry your luck ran out.
Make sure you check the DAC analogue voltage is 5v, by the way.
If you're going to replace the DAC chip from a 2nd-hand donor player you may as well just replace the whole main board. Much easier and no danger of damaging the chip then.
There is a final, dirt-cheap way to see if the data going to the DAC is OK without needing an external DAC. Find a TDA1543 dac chip. I bought some a while back and they are only about 2 GBP each. Should be easy to source.
All you need do is connect the I2S lines (the bit clock, left/right clock and data) to the corresponding pins on the TDA1543, feed it 5v, connect up three resistors and two caps on the output (all easily put together on veroboard in no time). If this sounds crap too then something else has fried.
You may even prefer the non-OS TDA1543 sound... plenty of people do... and make sure it's a TDA1543 and NOT a TDA1543A.
Make sure you check the DAC analogue voltage is 5v, by the way.
If you're going to replace the DAC chip from a 2nd-hand donor player you may as well just replace the whole main board. Much easier and no danger of damaging the chip then.
There is a final, dirt-cheap way to see if the data going to the DAC is OK without needing an external DAC. Find a TDA1543 dac chip. I bought some a while back and they are only about 2 GBP each. Should be easy to source.
All you need do is connect the I2S lines (the bit clock, left/right clock and data) to the corresponding pins on the TDA1543, feed it 5v, connect up three resistors and two caps on the output (all easily put together on veroboard in no time). If this sounds crap too then something else has fried.
You may even prefer the non-OS TDA1543 sound... plenty of people do... and make sure it's a TDA1543 and NOT a TDA1543A.
Glenn2 said:
Donor board is hard to get in Malaysia. To get TDA1543 from Farnell may take 1 week while the Marantz local distributor has ex-stock for the SM5872.
This weekend, I will probe the board again, especially on the power as it is very strange that both channel is affected at the same time...
Andre Visser said:
LOL. You can't, I was talking complete trash.
Sorry for the confusion, indeed it is only the screen that's not connected. Turns out the problem arose when I moved the player and changed the leads. The regulator supplying the clock moved and shorted one of the resistors to gnd.
Problem solved, and the new Pure Silve/Gold interconnects are incredible btw.
Regards, Lee.
Hello,
Seems to me that there is no electronic parts stores (catalog) in US who will carry any of this parts that are listed in mod diagrams/ parts list.
I am referring to passive elements. I checked with Digi-Key, MOUSER, and they all came up with close but not exact components with very low tolerance.
Al tho MOUSER offered me something from EU partner company, but price was very high (shipping) and I need to wait 2-3 weeks.
Can anybody here give me an idea what type (brand, material, casing) of resistors and capacitors are used in this moding, maybe I will able to find something locally.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Aram.
Seems to me that there is no electronic parts stores (catalog) in US who will carry any of this parts that are listed in mod diagrams/ parts list.
I am referring to passive elements. I checked with Digi-Key, MOUSER, and they all came up with close but not exact components with very low tolerance.
Al tho MOUSER offered me something from EU partner company, but price was very high (shipping) and I need to wait 2-3 weeks.
Can anybody here give me an idea what type (brand, material, casing) of resistors and capacitors are used in this moding, maybe I will able to find something locally.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Aram.
If you could be more specific someone state-side can surely point you in the right direction.
Resistors sometimes said to have good sound:
Kiwame (rebadged industrial carbon), Vishay bulk metal foil, Holco H2, Allen Bradley, Shinkoh tantalum + others, maybe Mundorf's new resistors for example.
Electrolytic caps that people on this thread have used:
Elna Cerafine, Elna Silmic, Elna For Audio (all quite good), Black Gate Standard (great value), Black Gate FK, Black Gate PK (good for local decoupling of ICs), Panasonic FC (perhaps not one to put near the output stage), Rubycon ZA (ZL seems quite good too), Sanyo Os-con (for digital rails mainly). Those last 3 you'll find in "normal", industrial suppliers, the rest you need "interesting" shops for.
Signal-coupling film caps:
Mundorf (all seem really good, MKP and ZN thought to offer great value), millions of others (not worth listing!!!)
Caps used for filter parts:
Silvered mica (safe bet), polystyrene (safe bet), PPS, various higher quality ceramics.
I hope this is useful.
Simon
Resistors sometimes said to have good sound:
Kiwame (rebadged industrial carbon), Vishay bulk metal foil, Holco H2, Allen Bradley, Shinkoh tantalum + others, maybe Mundorf's new resistors for example.
Electrolytic caps that people on this thread have used:
Elna Cerafine, Elna Silmic, Elna For Audio (all quite good), Black Gate Standard (great value), Black Gate FK, Black Gate PK (good for local decoupling of ICs), Panasonic FC (perhaps not one to put near the output stage), Rubycon ZA (ZL seems quite good too), Sanyo Os-con (for digital rails mainly). Those last 3 you'll find in "normal", industrial suppliers, the rest you need "interesting" shops for.
Signal-coupling film caps:
Mundorf (all seem really good, MKP and ZN thought to offer great value), millions of others (not worth listing!!!)
Caps used for filter parts:
Silvered mica (safe bet), polystyrene (safe bet), PPS, various higher quality ceramics.
I hope this is useful.
Simon