Hi LeeThomo said:
As I was desperately in need of some focus,I arranged a short trip to Algarve (sunny place) with my Wife and Son... When I arrived I had the best gift.... The Mundorfs are beautifull.
Thank you for the fantastic pcb also... Is GND commond to both channels ?
I will start working on the 103 PSU first... will report results soon.
Thank you so very much for your time and work.
Thank you Stevestvnharr said:
This topic is very dear to me... I am very happy because I am reopening the cap issue...... I love caps and will not sotp untill I get the best possible combo at the lowest possible cost.
I really apreciated your sourcing indications.
Thank you Brentrowemeister said:
I must read a lot before I start populating the PCB.... Is there any PCB layout with indications regarding the best component placement ?
Best regards
Ricardo
Thomo said:
http://www.wokeehong.net/
When I checked, it looks like they do not have much stock left. Better hurry...
Thomo said:
Hi,
Since I'm going to strip the CDP apart to change the DAC, I might as well do the mods as recommended in the list found in this thread earlier. There are some parts that need your advise. Some of the chokes need ferrites, what are the size to use? Also, 100nF polyphenylene sulphide capacitors for C611~C614 is hard to get. Any replacement?
SimontY said:
I would get some more opinions before attempting to desolder an smt device like that. As I said, I was just stating my experiences.
I've often found it a good idea to add 100-220nf cap directly onto the opamp supply pins (pins 4&8 I think). Some opamps have been known to oscillate, although I've not experienced this myself. Adding the cap usually improves the sound.
Regards, Lee.
I agree with Simon - I'd be surprised if the DAC had half-failed in such a way.
If it affects both channels in exactly the same way then it could be the +12V/-12V to the op-amps, or the +5V to the DAC analogue pins.
You can eliminate the DAC from your enquiries by listening to the signal straight from the DAC. Do it after the first RC on each of the four analogue outputs LO/LON/RO/RON, and use a cap (say 10uf, + end to DAC, - end to amp) to connect to your amp.
Easiest way would be to solder in four wires, one to each of those resistors so you can get at them easily with the player running.
If all of these signals sound OK you'd be saving yourself a whole heap of aggro coz it ain't the DAC!
Good luck...
Glenn
If it affects both channels in exactly the same way then it could be the +12V/-12V to the op-amps, or the +5V to the DAC analogue pins.
You can eliminate the DAC from your enquiries by listening to the signal straight from the DAC. Do it after the first RC on each of the four analogue outputs LO/LON/RO/RON, and use a cap (say 10uf, + end to DAC, - end to amp) to connect to your amp.
Easiest way would be to solder in four wires, one to each of those resistors so you can get at them easily with the player running.
If all of these signals sound OK you'd be saving yourself a whole heap of aggro coz it ain't the DAC!
Good luck...
Glenn
Hello All,
First time poster, long time reader!
Excellent forum, grate thread!!!
Planing to do some upgrades on my 67SE, so the first thing I did I improve the chassis
Yesterday I received my Clock DIY kit (picture attached), probably this weekend will put it together and will try to install.
Before I install, I have a question, do I need to remove all parts between pin XT0 and XT1 (on SM5872BS) or just 2 caps (CD03 and 02)?
Also I will need a 12V for the power supply, do you guys will recommend using a separate low noise transformer, or I can take that 12V from the board.
Thank you,
Aram
First time poster, long time reader!
Excellent forum, grate thread!!!
Planing to do some upgrades on my 67SE, so the first thing I did I improve the chassis
Yesterday I received my Clock DIY kit (picture attached), probably this weekend will put it together and will try to install.
Before I install, I have a question, do I need to remove all parts between pin XT0 and XT1 (on SM5872BS) or just 2 caps (CD03 and 02)?
Also I will need a 12V for the power supply, do you guys will recommend using a separate low noise transformer, or I can take that 12V from the board.
Thank you,
Aram
Hi and welcome to the thread.
You seem to have the "first-time poster" problems with attachments - no picture ( try reducing the size using PAINT max 100k )
In answer to your questions, remove all parts between Xto and Xti.
You can use the 12v supply as a first off.
It would be better if the clock module was fed from its own regulator or better still from its own transformer and supply/regulator.
Take the mod process slowly. Do not do too many mods at once otherwise if a problem develops, you will have a hard time to decide where it occured.
An important point, as padlifter Simonty will testify, the tracks and pads on the Marantz circuit board are VERY likely to lift and fracture if overheated. Be careful !
Good luck . Try reposting the photo.
Andy
You seem to have the "first-time poster" problems with attachments - no picture ( try reducing the size using PAINT max 100k )
In answer to your questions, remove all parts between Xto and Xti.
You can use the 12v supply as a first off.
It would be better if the clock module was fed from its own regulator or better still from its own transformer and supply/regulator.
Take the mod process slowly. Do not do too many mods at once otherwise if a problem develops, you will have a hard time to decide where it occured.
An important point, as padlifter Simonty will testify, the tracks and pads on the Marantz circuit board are VERY likely to lift and fracture if overheated. Be careful !
Good luck . Try reposting the photo.
Andy
Too true, the pads come up easily if you try to remove a component that hasn't had enough solder removed.
Whilst you can connect a clock from the +12v power rail, this will be polluting the output op-amps and HDAM circuit. If the clock can take 20vdc, you could feed it from before the 12v regulator.
Simon
Whilst you can connect a clock from the +12v power rail, this will be polluting the output op-amps and HDAM circuit. If the clock can take 20vdc, you could feed it from before the 12v regulator.
Simon
Hi LeeThomo said:
Just replaced the PSU caps on the meridian 103.
The bass became fuller but with more tightness.
Very good choice the 15000uF Mundorf. Thank you.
Back to the discrete board......
Before I start populating the discrete pcb I need your oppinion on GND connections... can I keep a common GND for both channels or must I separate them... is there any substantial difference ?
Also, I want to use some 470uF 16v BGSTD just after the +-15v spowers. Do you agree with this choice or would you recommend a better solution ?
Regards
Ricardo
Thanks All for reply's.
Andy, the clock has a regulator on the "same" PCB, so basically all I need is AC 12V, maybe 20V will work as well, I need to look up the specs on regulator LM317.
I was thinking to get transformer like this
http://www.conectro.by/datasheet/48_E130_10.pdf one.
(but from Digi-Key, I have seen them they are in blue casing surface mount), what do you think this will do the (low noise) job?
One more question before I start the installation
, output from clock can be connected to the IC Xto and Xti in any order?
Thanks.
Andy, the clock has a regulator on the "same" PCB, so basically all I need is AC 12V, maybe 20V will work as well, I need to look up the specs on regulator LM317.
I was thinking to get transformer like this
http://www.conectro.by/datasheet/48_E130_10.pdf one.
(but from Digi-Key, I have seen them they are in blue casing surface mount), what do you think this will do the (low noise) job?
One more question before I start the installation
, output from clock can be connected to the IC Xto and Xti in any order?Thanks.