Re: marantz mod
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1347230#post1347230
The only way I find to learn, is to get a bit of strip board and play about until you get it. Just re-create the diagram until it works. When testing hook up the supply, and earth connections and just read output with a multimeter.
As for the Invisus, I wouldn't bother, they're overpriced, overrated and pants.
Lee.
quan said:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1347230#post1347230
The only way I find to learn, is to get a bit of strip board and play about until you get it. Just re-create the diagram until it works. When testing hook up the supply, and earth connections and just read output with a multimeter.
As for the Invisus, I wouldn't bother, they're overpriced, overrated and pants.
Lee.
Re: Re: Re: marantz mod
It's also big so doesn't seem suited to mounting close to the circuit it's feeding, especially if using several (as we know we should).
From my experience thus far, I'd recommend putting any nice regulators on the DAC analogue stage, and on any precision/add-on clock circuits. These applications bring more musically uncompromised improvements than on the op-amps or discrete output stage, where the sound can also change character.
Simon
rowemeister said:
It's also big so doesn't seem suited to mounting close to the circuit it's feeding, especially if using several (as we know we should).
From my experience thus far, I'd recommend putting any nice regulators on the DAC analogue stage, and on any precision/add-on clock circuits. These applications bring more musically uncompromised improvements than on the op-amps or discrete output stage, where the sound can also change character.
Simon
Hi Ray
Thanks
Yes they are to select the V output 3.3V 5V 9V and 12V. The released ones wont have the jumper on board just the holes to link a wire. I expect the 12V option to be the most popular.
The current obviously depends on the voltage selected due to the head voltage drop (If someone wanted it for 5V only I can fit a lower volt tx). I have had both psu running at 12V and @ 800mA and it warmed the heatsink nicely with no overheating what so ever. The PSU2 can handle larger currents due to the larger VA.
The output on a lvery arge heatsink can run @ 4-5 amps but of course a much larger tx would be required.
I have designed the psu to run clocks such as the power hungry Audiocom clock3 and clock4.
Brent
Thanks
Yes they are to select the V output 3.3V 5V 9V and 12V. The released ones wont have the jumper on board just the holes to link a wire. I expect the 12V option to be the most popular.
The current obviously depends on the voltage selected due to the head voltage drop (If someone wanted it for 5V only I can fit a lower volt tx). I have had both psu running at 12V and @ 800mA and it warmed the heatsink nicely with no overheating what so ever. The PSU2 can handle larger currents due to the larger VA.
The output on a lvery arge heatsink can run @ 4-5 amps but of course a much larger tx would be required.
I have designed the psu to run clocks such as the power hungry Audiocom clock3 and clock4.
Brent
Further to my earlier post, I have rehoused my CD63 in a wooden case (thread following upon completion) with a DIY NOS DAC.
I have taken the spdif signal direct from the board (having removed the PCB mounted socket. I have taken the positive signal from the rear peg (fitted by myself) and the return from the front one. I have not used the other rear connection, which appears to be designed to be grounded to the chassis, but I have attached a lead to it if needed.
I cannot get a lock on my DAC (which works from an alternative spdif signal). Can someone start me off on my debugging route please?
TIA.
Michael
I have taken the spdif signal direct from the board (having removed the PCB mounted socket. I have taken the positive signal from the rear peg (fitted by myself) and the return from the front one. I have not used the other rear connection, which appears to be designed to be grounded to the chassis, but I have attached a lead to it if needed.
I cannot get a lock on my DAC (which works from an alternative spdif signal). Can someone start me off on my debugging route please?
TIA.
Michael
Attachments
Is it worth...
Is it worth havin some money in SCal Regs on new separates 5V rails if I still uses the Raygulators to feed the LM4562/BG team?
I can: just split rails and feed the analog section of the DAC with OEM Tx with a Rayg,
have a SCal Reg on this,
Have a separate Tx and a Rayg,
Separate TX and SCal reg...
The aim is not to go too far in a part if the state of the other parts won't show the benefit of the top part (I think It's not so clear...).
Thanks guys!
Matthieu
Also a questiona bout SCal Regs here for those who had some help there:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1369900#post1369900
Is it worth havin some money in SCal Regs on new separates 5V rails if I still uses the Raygulators to feed the LM4562/BG team?
I can: just split rails and feed the analog section of the DAC with OEM Tx with a Rayg,
have a SCal Reg on this,
Have a separate Tx and a Rayg,
Separate TX and SCal reg...
The aim is not to go too far in a part if the state of the other parts won't show the benefit of the top part (I think It's not so clear...).
Thanks guys!
Matthieu
Also a questiona bout SCal Regs here for those who had some help there:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1369900#post1369900
marantz 63/67 mod
Hi Malefoda, i just wonder if you can show me how to mount the separated regulators for the 12/5 V. I am confused and unsure where do you take the postive voltage ,ground and pin out mounting in regard to the player. Also if you can show a picture of the coax mod from RF to HF-Sorry i just have no idea where and how to mount things without a picture. Much thanks .Quan.
Hi Malefoda, i just wonder if you can show me how to mount the separated regulators for the 12/5 V. I am confused and unsure where do you take the postive voltage ,ground and pin out mounting in regard to the player. Also if you can show a picture of the coax mod from RF to HF-Sorry i just have no idea where and how to mount things without a picture. Much thanks .Quan.
The dac analogue really does benefit from the SPower reg, Thomo and Simon have found the gains to be big. Treat yourself
Quan, right now all my regs are in the normal position (and number). Coax mod is the classic one! There's a drawing of the PCB and where you may solder the coax in this topic. If needed I'll do some pics.
Thanks Brent, maybe it's "fatser" to order one of your SReg than waste time & money in a Rayg, then upgrade...
So if not too much for the rest of the player I'll tap power somewhere in the player (I guess between the 7805 and the big cap feeding it (C813?)).
If the customer I'll be is satisfied I'll see for more
Thx!
Thanks Brent, maybe it's "fatser" to order one of your SReg than waste time & money in a Rayg, then upgrade...
So if not too much for the rest of the player I'll tap power somewhere in the player (I guess between the 7805 and the big cap feeding it (C813?)).
If the customer I'll be is satisfied I'll see for more
Thx!
You mean it's ok with stock 10V or I must have a dedicated PSU (wich maybe the same for opamps...)?
And I saw a customer comment... strange It's Simon Do you have any real happy customer? I'm kiddin'
Oh I've just read your answer again and understand it, standard 10V is OK until one day I can afford a PSU... so you're tryin' to say I should test your famous PSU instead of a SReg? Super salesman!... =)
And I saw a customer comment... strange It's Simon
Do you have any real happy customer? I'm kiddin' Oh I've just read your answer again and understand it, standard 10V is OK until one day I can afford a PSU... so you're tryin' to say I should test your famous PSU instead of a SReg? Super salesman!... =)
Malefoda said:
And I saw a customer comment... strange It's Simon
Haha, well the feedback is for real. For low risk just buy one reg: for the DAC analogue pins.
They're good regs so should (and do) work ok from a shared supply (but of course even better from a dedicated tx - for the full dynamics and bass weight in particular).
Simon
Matthieu, buy an SPower. I did and think it's brilliant, far better than the Audiocom Invisus on dac analog. It was easily one of the best upgrades I have made.
I haven't modded my player for about two-weeks now, since the discrete stage went in (a record length of time). But have made myself some interconnects and am very happy with the sound of my system. Except, has anyone found the sound more closed in with the discrete?
There's a huge amount of detail and it's all presented very cohesively, but it isn't as open as the lm4562's.
Lee.
I haven't modded my player for about two-weeks now, since the discrete stage went in (a record length of time). But have made myself some interconnects and am very happy with the sound of my system. Except, has anyone found the sound more closed in with the discrete?
There's a huge amount of detail and it's all presented very cohesively, but it isn't as open as the lm4562's.
Lee.
Thomo said:
Hi Lee,
Nope, not here. I found, if anything, the discrete output to be a touch more open.
The real trick, however, is in the way it sounds so flowing and organic, with terrific bass.
I used what I would call mostly premium parts. Remind us, what parts have you used in yours? The obligatory coupling cap could be a factor here.
Simon
BG STD Supply caps, output cap is BG AC 6.8uF. The resistors are all vishay smt's and filter caps are Silver Mica. I agree to the flowing and organic comment. I think maybe I just got used to the more forceful opamp sound.
What do you use for the output psu Simon? At the moment I am still using the SE tx + 2200uF 35v BG FK. Maybe bigger will be better.
Lee.
What do you use for the output psu Simon? At the moment I am still using the SE tx + 2200uF 35v BG FK. Maybe bigger will be better.
Lee.