Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Hi Brent, i am still coming to terms with the result this am at the San Siro- it hurts!!!! Audiocom clocks are very expensive in Australia-plus for anewbie like me- my concern would not only be cost but what if i stuff it up!- you know what i mean- trail of destruction- The same applies to the voltage regulator. I gather there is no good beginer project . Quan.:$:
 
Hi Andy,Jorge,Brent and Ray.
Very thanks for your kind attention,

The raygulator supplied by +16.10V ,-15.96V from new PSU (1Amp,1N4007, and 2x1000uF/35V BG) and isolate from CDP by cut U218 (+12V), U216 (-12V). Transformer sec. volt. 18,15,12VAC and CT.

Lately, I tried to replace raw supply with tap from C803 (+21VDC), C804 (-21VDC) and probe output of raygulator,pin 4/8(both of opamp sitted),result is +11.9V , -11.6V... so I have conclusion the main problem is 'New PSU' :hot:

I replaced sec.voltage(new psu) from 12 VAC to 15 VAC and got +21 VDC, -21VDC after rectified and than supllied to raygulator, output regs now is +11.9V , -11.6V.
Both opamp sitted and probe pin 4 and 8, the result is STABLE +11.9V and -11.6V :smash:

Try for playing the music and wouw, big improvement in the midrange area and low bass superb(I still need more bass resolution).

Now, I have planning to sit 5V raygulator for digital section, with voltage supply from U218 (+12V),U216 (-12V) or direct to C803,C804 +- 21V? advise pls ?

Regards
aquar
 
Hi Aquar,

Looks like your input voltage was too low then. Great to hear everything works fine now. If you want to feed the digital section with separate 5V regulators, take power from C813, NOT C803/804 or U216/218. That section is for the analog power. C813 feeds the digital 5V regulator Q811 and you can simply add extra regulators to feed the DAC and decoder.

Regards,

Ray
 
Hi Ray, cheers to all,

I have already implemented Super Raygulator to feed my DAC chip (PCM 1732) but partially, without capacitance multiplier or gyrator.

- I was actually in doubt if BC547 can withstand ~80mA of the DAC chip consumption.

- If not, should I change it for BC639 (1A) or perhaps BD139?

- Should I still fit them with 1.5K and 4.7uF?

Could you, please, give me your advise on this?

Thanks,

Baki
 
Hi Baki,

80mA is indeed a bit close to the max. 100mA for a 547. I would use another type that can handle a bit more current, 200mA minimum looks like a safe start. BC639 and BD139 are suitable, but they have lower Hfe (gain). That will result in a larger voltage drop across the 1k5 resistor. As long as your input voltage is high enough, this doesn't have to be a problem. You can lower the resistor a bit to provide more base current, but this decreases the effectiveness of the R-C filter.

The circuit's success is based on a high gain transistor that needs very little base current, so virtually no voltage is 'lost' across the resistor and optimum filtering is achieved. Maybe a FET would do an even better job?

BC327/337/338 are all 800mA devices with reasonable high Hfe, and BC517 is a 400mA darlington that can be used, it has very high gain, so you won't have to lower the resistor.

Regards,

Ray
 
The circuit's success is based on a high gain transistor that needs very little base current, so virtually no voltage is 'lost' across the resistor and optimum filtering is achieved.
So build your own darlington - BC547 driving the BD139; or arrange a 547 driver with say BD140 (PNP) as a Sziklai pair for absolute minimal dropout - I've seen less than 0.8v dropout this way. The compound transistor approach also allows you to use greater RC time constants for better filtering - say 33K/ 1uF film cap
Maybe a FET would do an even better job?
Much higher dropout (4-5v) and rather higher output impedance, due to lower transconductance. The BJT will have an output Z around 26/80, about 0.3ohms, the mosfet equivalent somewhere around 5ohms depending on the part used. 3-pin regs like low impedance supplies...
 
martin clark said:
So build your own darlington - BC547 driving the BD139; or arrange a 547 driver with say BD140 (PNP) as a Sziklai pair for absolute minimal dropout - I've seen less than 0.8v dropout this way. The compound transistor approach also allows you to use greater RC time constants for better filtering - say 33K/ 1uF film cap Much higher dropout (4-5v) and rather higher output impedance, due to lower transconductance. The BJT will have an output Z around 26/80, about 0.3ohms, the mosfet equivalent somewhere around 5ohms depending on the part used. 3-pin regs like low impedance supplies...

Martin,

Should we just refer to you as "Mr Regulator" from now? :D

Simon
 
AD8599

Hi there,
AD8599 are in, but I've also changed the amp live/neutral to the way it should be at the same time.
I don't know if it's only the plug turn that makes the difference, but bass are now much more present ! I find, with these 2 changes (also wired the Flea's PSU after the switch, still starts well but no sound effect), so with 2 changes the sound is more "shinning", like faster or dynamic. Maybe it's because I'm back from LM4562 in CDP and in preamp of the amp (to many?), but it's near to be harsh in some ways: in find the voices wistling sounds such as "s" or "sh" to be very harsh, don't know if it's me or... I'll let all this settle some, will repeat CDs for a while and will listen some after.
AVR, did you "burnt" yours or did the magic came right then?
 
It's said everywhere that all stuff should have a direction for live&neutral, as in our CDP it's indicated Hot/Cold. In my new amp it's not the case, so I've decided to check with this tip :
http://www.hifi-cables.com/Sens.html
In the way the IEC is OEM then got 3V, when turn the plug got 1V. So I'm now runing the reversed plug. This is the 1st change.

What I mean is that maybe tonight my mind get stick with "s" or "sh"; maybe the records I've listened to are that way.
Compared to CDP-LM4562/Integrated-NE5532 the new setup AD8599/LM4562 sound faster, brighter.
 
Malefoda said:
It's said everywhere that all stuff should have a direction for live&neutral, as in our CDP it's indicated Hot/Cold. In my new amp it's not the case, so I've decided to check with this tip :
http://www.hifi-cables.com/Sens.html
In the way the IEC is OEM then got 3V, when turn the plug got 1V. So I'm now runing the reversed plug. This is the 1st change.

What I mean is that maybe tonight my mind get stick with "s" or "sh"; maybe the records I've listened to are that way.
Compared to CDP-LM4562/Integrated-NE5532 the new setup AD8599/LM4562 sound faster, brighter.

Got it!

Try concentrating about the flow in the music, the way that the musicians play together, the performer/band/orchestra's ability to play in the right pace - instead of the details. Anyway you don't know how the producer has mixed the record, but you CAN hear when the set isn't timing right, then your foot stops rocking.

As you wrote, the timing is better now, it's playing faster.
 
It's still a mixed feeling. Maybe I play too loud and make the poor small room sounds terrible (in french " terrible " means fantastic, not here!).
And the fact is that this afternoon I'm hard on make a "technical" listening and start to sing and move my head as sunshing is here =)
I think as I have no socket in the CDP and it's very boring to take it out that I'll fit sockets later and go further on tests. When fit the sockets will change RJH to BG for the opamps.
As before when I've done Ray's list, changes are so neat that I've to get used to the new sound. I wonder how was my OEM system (CD53 and the Arcam) sounded before...