Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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Re: Re: marant mod

SimontY said:


Ahha, well 0.1uF is not the same as 100pF. It IS the same as 100nF though.

0.1uF = 100nF = 10000pF (i think :) )

If you can't find a 100pF polystyrene, silvered/silver mica or polypropylene you should probably put the original orange coloured cap back in.

Are there any other parts in this area you changed for different values?

Briefly, what are the audio pros and cons of Polypropylene film versus Polystyrene?

Regards,
Dan


:confused:
 
Re: Re: Re: marant mod

dantwomey said:
Briefly, what are the audio pros and cons of Polypropylene film versus Polystyrene?

Regards,
Dan

:confused:

It's not worth getting bogged down with in my opinion. If you choose either you're onto a winner. Both are techincally good dielectrics and those who listen for improvements hear good results with these types of caps. Just so long as the signal isn't going through ceramic or electrolytic caps :D

Simon
 
tms2000 said:
Brent, please let me know where u buy your BG NX in such small value THANKS

I doubt you can. No idea what Brent's talking about here, he's probably too excited about this football match to make much sense! ;)

BG NX is supposed to be good in the signal path i.e. DC blocking. Even better will be BG AC. I will be purchasing "AC" for my discrete board, and will use polystyrene for the filtering components there.

Simon

edit: I see Brent edited his post to say silver mica, hehe
 
Hi Ray/Andy,
Last nigh I replaced BC547C with a new one in the +12V raygulator and chek the wiring, it looks seem ok ,than I fitted in the CDP and voltage drop to +8.9 V (test before sitted +11.98V).
If I release opamp, the voltage normal in 11.98V, what wrong ?
BTW: for -12V stable in -11.67V.

Regards

aquar
 
aquar said:
Hi Ray/Andy,
Last nigh I replaced BC547C with a new one in the +12V raygulator and chek the wiring, it looks seem ok ,than I fitted in the CDP and voltage drop to +8.9 V (test before sitted +11.98V).
If I release opamp, the voltage normal in 11.98V, what wrong ?
BTW: for -12V stable in -11.67V.

Regards

aquar


Hi
What is the input voltage to the regulator when it is fitted?
Does the input voltage drop as well?

If not, something is drawing extra current causing the voltage drop. You need to look for a partial short or a solder bridge.

Andy
 
aquar said:

Last nigh I replaced BC547C with a new one in the +12V raygulator and chek the wiring, it looks seem ok ,than I fitted in the CDP and voltage drop to +8.9 V (test before sitted +11.98V).
If I release opamp, the voltage normal in 11.98V, what wrong ?
BTW: for -12V stable in -11.67V.

Hi

Check if the op amp is with the right orientation in the PCB and it is not burned...

Regards
 
aquar said:
Hi Ray/Andy,
Last nigh I replaced BC547C with a new one in the +12V raygulator and chek the wiring, it looks seem ok ,than I fitted in the CDP and voltage drop to +8.9 V (test before sitted +11.98V).
If I release opamp, the voltage normal in 11.98V, what wrong ?
BTW: for -12V stable in -11.67V.

Regards

aquar

Is it only doing it with one opamp or both? If it's only one then I would suggest it is faulty. Try fitting original opamps or any other opamps you may have laying around.

Brent
 
marantz 67 mods

Hi guys, replaced the parts as advised-thanks Simon-now the 67marantz making sweet music-unbelieveable. But i know there is more one can tweak to improve it
Things still to be done-78LM12/79LM12 replacement
-new low jitter clock
Where do i start to build a good beginer voltage regulator?(if there is such a thing)-Quan:D
 
Re: marantz 67 mods

quan said:
Hi guys, replaced the parts as advised-thanks Simon-now the 67marantz making sweet music-unbelieveable. But i know there is more one can tweak to improve it
Things still to be done-78LM12/79LM12 replacement
-new low jitter clock
Where do i start to build a good beginer voltage regulator?(if there is such a thing)-Quan:D

Hi Quan,

Great news about your player! There's lots still to do and I highly recommend fitting a good clock!

I'm not sure if there's any easy to build regulator that is extremely low noise and impedance. You might be best buying one or trying to source a pcb for one and putting the parts on yourself to save money. Search this forum as there's loads of information about this kind of thing. Many here are using the LM317 with extra parts (aka Raygulator) but for the best sound I think you need something a bit more complex.

A cheap power supply upgrade you can try is separate regulators (can do this even with cheapo 7805 parts) for the DAC's digital, analogue and xtal reference pins. These can be shared with the ana and digi pins of the decoder chip too. This will not produce massive gains but it's well worth doing and very cheap.

Regards
Simon