rowemeister said:
TX- I've got a couple of whoppers in an old Rotel RB850 but they're not toroids. I don't think there'd be room. I think trying to source a new one would be better.
Simon: this meet - where/when is it?
My problems are two-fold at the moment. Weekends spent looking for a new property and also no wheels! So I'll probably have to pass this year.
Chesterfield, July. See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=94337&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
Simon
Simon
DaHood said:
Expensive and not applied in a manner that would lead to the best results. It can be fun to learn to do these things, but if you decide to get someone else to do it Brent (rowemeister) has modified many machines for other people, and is cheap.
If you have limited knowledge but just want a taste of high end, start with the Audiocom Superclock 3 and one Super Regulator to power it. This was basically my first mod to any cd player and it lifts the player tremendously! Another easy and useful mod is to replace the feet with hard cones and put a little bitumen on the inside of the lid to damp it.
Do you have any knowledge of electronics at all? Or anything that would help? It should be pointed out that it's very easy to stop a CD player working with the smallest mistake. I've done it many a time.
Simon
I do have experience but that was many a year ago; I do have a friend that is well up on electronics so i'll get him to assist.
The kit on Ebay includes this:
Superclock 3 /16.9344MHz
· SMB cable assembly for Superclock 3 /250mm with SMB plug to bare ends.
· Adhesive backed plastic stand-offs to mount Superclock 3 /2 pcs
· Invisus PPR1 Ultra-low Noise /+5V Regulator
· Sontech SFRT-AL resonance control panel for lid; 250mm x 250mm.
· Smartwire 2% Silver Solder /2 metres.
· Silver-plated OFC wire (2 colours) for clock DC power input/ 50cm
What do you reckon?
Thanks for the info by the way....
The kit on Ebay includes this:
Superclock 3 /16.9344MHz
· SMB cable assembly for Superclock 3 /250mm with SMB plug to bare ends.
· Adhesive backed plastic stand-offs to mount Superclock 3 /2 pcs
· Invisus PPR1 Ultra-low Noise /+5V Regulator
· Sontech SFRT-AL resonance control panel for lid; 250mm x 250mm.
· Smartwire 2% Silver Solder /2 metres.
· Silver-plated OFC wire (2 colours) for clock DC power input/ 50cm
What do you reckon?
Thanks for the info by the way....
The Audiocom gear is good stuff no doubt about it.
But just replacing one crap reg with a good quality reg is not really enough.
First of all I would upgrade the opamps and bypass the HDAM and output caps. See what you think
Then we can move onto caps and clock etc. Don't get bogged down with a million and one different mods.
Brent
But just replacing one crap reg with a good quality reg is not really enough.
First of all I would upgrade the opamps and bypass the HDAM and output caps. See what you think
Then we can move onto caps and clock etc. Don't get bogged down with a million and one different mods.
Brent
I've been modding again!!! 
I now have seperate TX for DAC and Decoder + 2 extra SPOWER regs running the decoder.
The CDP is now running 13 low noise regs and 5 toroids + KI TX for discrete pcb.
Here are some pics
Brent
I now have seperate TX for DAC and Decoder + 2 extra SPOWER regs running the decoder.
The CDP is now running 13 low noise regs and 5 toroids + KI TX for discrete pcb.
Here are some pics
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brent
The KI TX makes all the difference. The difference between SE and KI is the TX and copper plated chassis (also the bottom plate is a little thicker). And they were originally priced @ £350 for SE and £500 for KI.
I would say the TX makes a good 85 - 90% of the difference between the two.
Yes it will fit the 67. But where are you going to get one from?
If you buy a 63KI don't take the TX out! sell the 67 and mod the KI.
Remember the 63 and 67 are 90% identical.
Hope that covers your question
Brent
I would say the TX makes a good 85 - 90% of the difference between the two.
Yes it will fit the 67. But where are you going to get one from?
If you buy a 63KI don't take the TX out! sell the 67 and mod the KI.
Remember the 63 and 67 are 90% identical.
Hope that covers your question
Brent
@Brent, thanks it does cover my question.
the TX comes from an old CD63KI which doesn't run perfectly anymore, can sell it secondhand.
My CD67 is in perfect condition and modded with use of knowledge that I don't have
Apart from that what would be the advantage of modding the CD63KI instead of changing the TX (which is 85% of the difference?)
Paul
the TX comes from an old CD63KI which doesn't run perfectly anymore, can sell it secondhand.
My CD67 is in perfect condition and modded with use of knowledge that I don't have
Apart from that what would be the advantage of modding the CD63KI instead of changing the TX (which is 85% of the difference?)
Paul
Paulus1981 said:@Brent, thanks it does cover my question.
the TX comes from an old CD63KI which doesn't run perfectly anymore, can sell it secondhand.
My CD67 is in perfect condition and modded with use of knowledge that I don't have
Apart from that what would be the advantage of modding the CD63KI instead of changing the TX (which is 85% of the difference?)
Paul
KEEP THE KI !!!!!!!!!!
After modding, it would be better than perfect !!
===================================
The mods improve every section of the player, apart from the actual pick-up mechanism. If this is where your fault is, swap it with the CD67.
Andy
Paulus1981 said:@Brent, thanks it does cover my question.
the TX comes from an old CD63KI which doesn't run perfectly anymore, can sell it secondhand.
My CD67 is in perfect condition and modded with use of knowledge that I don't have
Apart from that what would be the advantage of modding the CD63KI instead of changing the TX (which is 85% of the difference?)
Paul
As a slightly different approach to what Poynton said....
Yes keep the KI. Fit the KI TX to the 67. Then drop the 67 pcb (with KI tx) into the KI chassis. Sorted.
An Hybrid KI (CD 67 KI)
Brent
Would it fit?
I.e., are the screw holes, sockets etc. in the same places?
I'm asking because the 67SE is wider than the 63 (i.e., it's the same width as the PM-66).
I suspect that there's just more fresh air at the sides on the 67 but I'd be interested if you'd tried this.
I might have a play with an old 63 (not SE or KI)and if it ends up better than my 67SE I'll put the guts into the 67SE chassis and go the other way to Paul...
I.e., are the screw holes, sockets etc. in the same places?
I'm asking because the 67SE is wider than the 63 (i.e., it's the same width as the PM-66).
I suspect that there's just more fresh air at the sides on the 67 but I'd be interested if you'd tried this.
I might have a play with an old 63 (not SE or KI)and if it ends up better than my 67SE I'll put the guts into the 67SE chassis and go the other way to Paul...