SimontY said:
From National, you can only order 5 chips per week.
My first order for the LM4562 went through OK and I have received them.
My second order for LM6171 bounced. !! but ....
I had changed my email account from hotmail to freeserve to try to get around the delivery charge. I have now changed back but I will wait a week before reordering.
Andy
My order went through no problem for the 4562's as i ordered them via my business, so no problems, cant wait till they arrive. No charges whatsoever, for evaluation only obviously 
I already got a pack of 50 hi quality gold plated sockets, not the cheapy gold over nickel stuff, decent gold, i think ill get some studs in a pair and give them to the wife as earings on her birthday !
Just finished cleaning all my earth pins and plugs with brasso diluted with IPA solution, they where already treated and scrubbed anyhow, HOOOOOLYYY **** base, defo made a big differnce on the cd63ki and amp ! Nice base......im still trying to find my spleen !
Dennis
I already got a pack of 50 hi quality gold plated sockets, not the cheapy gold over nickel stuff, decent gold, i think ill get some studs in a pair and give them to the wife as earings on her birthday !
Just finished cleaning all my earth pins and plugs with brasso diluted with IPA solution, they where already treated and scrubbed anyhow, HOOOOOLYYY **** base, defo made a big differnce on the cd63ki and amp ! Nice base......im still trying to find my spleen !
Dennis
Re: Re: Re: Re: 801/802 replacement
Taiwan is close, so I was thinking about purchasing these PCB's as replacements for the:
LM7805 = +5v regulator (5v digital supplies x2)
LM7812 = +12v regulator (analogue section +supply)
LM7912 = -12v regulator (analogue section -supply)
I believe (I do not claim to know!) from what I have read on other threads and pinkfish and acoustica sites that LM1086 and LT1086 are equivalents for LM317T. Eddie Wang's site also notes that the LT1085 series can be used. Is there any experience of putting these in the reg? Is it much more expensive?
How does it compare to a "Raygulator" with a LM317 ..
In this post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=860806#post860806 Ray also shows a LM1086 reg.
k.
6h5c said:
Taiwan is close, so I was thinking about purchasing these PCB's as replacements for the:
LM7805 = +5v regulator (5v digital supplies x2)
LM7812 = +12v regulator (analogue section +supply)
LM7912 = -12v regulator (analogue section -supply)
I believe (I do not claim to know!) from what I have read on other threads and pinkfish and acoustica sites that LM1086 and LT1086 are equivalents for LM317T. Eddie Wang's site also notes that the LT1085 series can be used. Is there any experience of putting these in the reg? Is it much more expensive?
How does it compare to a "Raygulator" with a LM317 ..
In this post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=860806#post860806 Ray also shows a LM1086 reg.
k.
Mod update 1
Guys,
Hi and thanks for all your modding posts. Keep them coming. Here is the list of alterations I've done so far:
1. Removed the muting transistors and replaced them with a DPDT relay (gold internal contacts) - made a massive difference to the transparency and soundstage. I didn't have a relay in the system for a few weeks and didn't miss the muting circuit till I switched the CD player off one day with my monoblocs on (I normally have everything permanently powered up). Implemented the relay circuit ASAP. It essentially got rid of any switching noises between tracks or during power on/off which could potentially kill the speakers.
2. Removed the DC blocking caps on the output (C655-658) and used them to replace C651-654 - small but noticeable enhancement to the dynamics.
3. Replaced the +/-12V and 5V regs with LM317/337s - improved the imaging dramatically
4. Replaced the clock with an Audiocom Superclock 3
5. Powered the clock with a dedicated PSU - carried out step 4 & 5 together. All I can say is that I've started listening to my entire CD collection again. I'm either hearing things or I'm hearing things (that I didn't hear before)!!!
6. Replaced the opamps with OPA627s on Browndogs
7.Disabled the HDAMs - 6 & 7 were carried out together. The player is definitely less harsh.
8. Replaced the 2 way 240Vac cord with a filtered IEC socket and a wattgate/shielded cable combo - caused a noticeable hum which turned out to be caused by my tuner. Got rid of the ground loop with a grounding strap.
9. Damped the insides of the unit - I didn't hear any difference except when you knock on the top, its not musical any more!!!
Stage 2:
1. Isolate the DAC/decoder power with their own LM317 vregs
2. Waiting on my LM4562NA 'ultimate' opamp samples to arrive from Nat'l Semiconductors
3. Start installing all the SMD bypass caps
4. Any suggestions???
Guys,
Hi and thanks for all your modding posts. Keep them coming. Here is the list of alterations I've done so far:
1. Removed the muting transistors and replaced them with a DPDT relay (gold internal contacts) - made a massive difference to the transparency and soundstage. I didn't have a relay in the system for a few weeks and didn't miss the muting circuit till I switched the CD player off one day with my monoblocs on (I normally have everything permanently powered up). Implemented the relay circuit ASAP. It essentially got rid of any switching noises between tracks or during power on/off which could potentially kill the speakers.
2. Removed the DC blocking caps on the output (C655-658) and used them to replace C651-654 - small but noticeable enhancement to the dynamics.
3. Replaced the +/-12V and 5V regs with LM317/337s - improved the imaging dramatically
4. Replaced the clock with an Audiocom Superclock 3
5. Powered the clock with a dedicated PSU - carried out step 4 & 5 together. All I can say is that I've started listening to my entire CD collection again. I'm either hearing things or I'm hearing things (that I didn't hear before)!!!
6. Replaced the opamps with OPA627s on Browndogs
7.Disabled the HDAMs - 6 & 7 were carried out together. The player is definitely less harsh.
8. Replaced the 2 way 240Vac cord with a filtered IEC socket and a wattgate/shielded cable combo - caused a noticeable hum which turned out to be caused by my tuner. Got rid of the ground loop with a grounding strap.
9. Damped the insides of the unit - I didn't hear any difference except when you knock on the top, its not musical any more!!!
Stage 2:
1. Isolate the DAC/decoder power with their own LM317 vregs
2. Waiting on my LM4562NA 'ultimate' opamp samples to arrive from Nat'l Semiconductors
3. Start installing all the SMD bypass caps
4. Any suggestions???
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leonlobo said:
I don't know the Superclock onboard regulator - Brent does.
BUT - Please take a look at "using 3-pin regulators, part 2" at http://www.acoustica.org.uk/ and remember, that the clock supply is extremely critical. The less noise the better. That's why the PFM Flea was born.
I wouldn't use a SMPS anywhere near my CDP. Just my opinion.
Output impedance on cd 67
Hallo everybody,
I have done a long read and done several mods in my CD67MkII inspired by this very long tread.
The last mod i did was removal of the HDAM circuit and i must say it removed another curtain from the soundstage and detail got much better.
But the bass got less and sounded less controlled
I have the OPA2134 behind the DAC and 42 ohms in series with bypass wire to the RCA ouput of CD67, this is followed by a 24 steps attenuator 100Kohm and then my DIY dual mono UCD400 main amplifier.
What did i do wrong? annyone suggestions?
Peter
Hallo everybody,
I have done a long read and done several mods in my CD67MkII inspired by this very long tread.
The last mod i did was removal of the HDAM circuit and i must say it removed another curtain from the soundstage and detail got much better.
But the bass got less and sounded less controlled
I have the OPA2134 behind the DAC and 42 ohms in series with bypass wire to the RCA ouput of CD67, this is followed by a 24 steps attenuator 100Kohm and then my DIY dual mono UCD400 main amplifier.
What did i do wrong? annyone suggestions?
Peter
ADFINNI
I will be ordering more, i received 3 yesterday. If you are having problems you can have a couple of mine as soon as i receive some more.
I ordered through my business as such, due to nature of my work i got them as samples, so cost nowt anyhow. Hopefully i will get more over the next 2 weeks for free also.
Where in UK are you ?
Dennis
Re: Output impedance on cd 67
Hi,
Passive preamp? I didn't like the lack of bass using no preamp. Try using a better op-amp than 2134. I'm afraid that what you have revealed may be a weakness elsewhere in the system. Impossible to fix without knowing more about it.
Try a solid core twisted pair interconnect (gives me the sound I want). Try using LM4562 instead of 2134. Try using cones under the CD player. Also, you need to reclock to get the best bass.
I hope at least one of these things can help you!
If you have a good system it's so easy to ruin the balance with a simple change or two...
Regards
Simon
Peter Venema said:
Hi,
Passive preamp? I didn't like the lack of bass using no preamp. Try using a better op-amp than 2134. I'm afraid that what you have revealed may be a weakness elsewhere in the system. Impossible to fix without knowing more about it.
Try a solid core twisted pair interconnect (gives me the sound I want). Try using LM4562 instead of 2134. Try using cones under the CD player. Also, you need to reclock to get the best bass.
I hope at least one of these things can help you!
If you have a good system it's so easy to ruin the balance with a simple change or two...
Regards
Simon
Hi Simon,
Your becomming the godfather of this tread!
Thanks for your quick reply, i have a microphone cable with twisted pair between the cd, passive amp aswell to the main amp.
I already reclocked with a X0 clock from Guido Tent.
I don't have seppared supply modules for the different stages and DAC and i didn't do the coax mods al well, tommorrow i wil try to order some LM4562 samples from NS so maybe its in these mods were i can get more bass.
Thanks again and keep up the good your are doing to your Marantz ridge i'm very curious what your external supply will do for the sound of your CD player.
Greetz (and sorry for my englisch)
Peter
Your becomming the godfather of this tread
!Thanks for your quick reply, i have a microphone cable with twisted pair between the cd, passive amp aswell to the main amp.
I already reclocked with a X0 clock from Guido Tent.
I don't have seppared supply modules for the different stages and DAC and i didn't do the coax mods al well, tommorrow i wil try to order some LM4562 samples from NS
so maybe its in these mods were i can get more bass.Thanks again and keep up the good your are doing to your Marantz ridge i'm very curious what your external supply will do for the sound of your CD player.
Greetz (and sorry for my englisch)
Peter
Peter Venema said:Hi Simon,
Your becomming the godfather of this tread
Nice of you to say, but no, the real knowledge comes from your country! And also from Doncaster
Well I won't pretend to know what the best interconnect geometries are for this wiring, but the cryo-treated enanelled copper and vampire copper phonos sounds stunning if you ever want to try something different there.
Excellent, I hope it's running on a very clean and dedicated supply.
Those mods probably won't bring bone-crunching bass but for smoothness and detail they're important.
tommorrow i wil try to order some LM4562 samples from NS
This op-amp will likely give a slight improvement in the bass (and the midrange, definately). Have you removed/bypassed the dc blocking caps? This mod cleans up the bass.
You're most welcome Peter, I hope my rambling comments help at least a little. Your English is perfectly understandable. I can't wait to hear results of this external supply. I'm currently trawling through all my parts and tool boxes looking for those boards with holes in! Then I can assemble the first bridge rectifiers.
One more point re good bass: as others have said countless times, clean your connections and don't neglect the incoming mains. For agile and tuneful bass, I find spiked speakers, spiked rack, and coned cd player and amps are the way to go.
Regards,
Simon
Simon,
That most of the knowlege is from Holland is nice to say from you
as you know Philips invented the CD system.
Sure Ray and Jaap contributed a lot in this tread and perhaps if my financial situation is getting beter (just build the UCD dual mono
) im trying to build the discrete fet output.
Did you know that the middle hole of an CD is exact the size of a Dutch florin 10 cent coin ? okee, pointless information
Yes i have removed the output caps and used them around the opamps for buffering the supply.
I was thinking that perhaps soldering a 100Kohm resistor to the groundplane and thus getting the output impedance the same as the mainamp a solution? i now have only a series resistor of 42 ohm with the output and maybe this is a impedance problem.
regards
Peter
That most of the knowlege is from Holland is nice to say from you
as you know Philips invented the CD system.
Sure Ray and Jaap contributed a lot in this tread and perhaps if my financial situation is getting beter (just build the UCD dual mono
) im trying to build the discrete fet output.Did you know that the middle hole of an CD is exact the size of a Dutch florin 10 cent coin
? okee, pointless informationYes i have removed the output caps and used them around the opamps for buffering the supply.
I was thinking that perhaps soldering a 100Kohm resistor to the groundplane and thus getting the output impedance the same as the mainamp a solution? i now have only a series resistor of 42 ohm with the output and maybe this is a impedance problem.
regards
Peter
SimontY said:
Simon, just out of curiosity where do the OPA627, OPA132, AD8610 and other single opamps fit into your top 5 list?
I was actually planning on changing my 2134s for a combination of AD8610 and AD8510 but the LM4562 means not having to buy Browndog adaptors so I've ordered a pair to try out.
Cheers
Greg
Greg3333 said:
Hi Greg,
I haven't tried the single OPA132, AD610 or indeed any other single op-amps. Others, like Ray and I suspect Poynton, have tested many more.
I have only tried, in my cd63, JRC2114 (originals), OPA2604 (impressive but unmusical and false), OPA2132 (better but lacking the polish) and OPA627x2 (blows the others away, no need to keep searching). The OPA627 just has the scale and full-bodied quality I like.
In my pre-amp I have tried OPA2134 (original and fine), LM6172 (much more exciting but it grated on my ears) and LM4562. The LM4562 really is a league ahead.
As you can see I've yet to make a comparison (in the same piece of equipment) between OPA627 and LM4562 but for what it'll cost and how easy it is... Just use LM4562 and FORGET ABOUT IT!
Otherwise, build the discrete stage for a more natural sound.
Regards,
Simon