The project has taken a new turn! 
I found the whole construction to be a bit odd and I have some noice in both the rewired panels - not from lose wire, but fron the film hitting the magnets due to skew metal plates => I'll redo the whole thing!
The plan is to use 19mm MDF 550 x 1800mm and put on some new 12.5µm Mylar.
Perhaps I'll find time to mill the holes to night and test mount the plates.
/Roger
I found the whole construction to be a bit odd and I have some noice in both the rewired panels - not from lose wire, but fron the film hitting the magnets due to skew metal plates => I'll redo the whole thing!
The plan is to use 19mm MDF 550 x 1800mm and put on some new 12.5µm Mylar.
Perhaps I'll find time to mill the holes to night and test mount the plates.
/Roger
Does anyone know of a thread here on DIYA that shows the BASIC layout of the Magnapan speakers in DETAIL. I have seen lots of photos but no detail of how it all fits together. The placement of the magnets with respect to the aluminum foil and the copper wire and such, maybe I am just dense in the head and I am over complicating it.
I use extra strong double sided tape on the spacers. I've used this tape with good results on my ESL-panels and it makes the process so much easier than using glue and having to wait for it to cure.
The frame placed on the streched Mylar.
And here is the result after cutting the film along the spacers.
I heat treated the film after it was attached to the spacers to increase the tensioning a bit more.
Not shown are the strips off steel sheet metal glued on top of the Mylar and the spacers to help hold the film tensioned. (like in the original)
I tried to glue the wire by hand to the Mylar - It works fine, but I think I'll make a simple jigg as I find it to time consuming!
/R
The frame placed on the streched Mylar.
And here is the result after cutting the film along the spacers.
I heat treated the film after it was attached to the spacers to increase the tensioning a bit more.
Not shown are the strips off steel sheet metal glued on top of the Mylar and the spacers to help hold the film tensioned. (like in the original)
I tried to glue the wire by hand to the Mylar - It works fine, but I think I'll make a simple jigg as I find it to time consuming!
/R
i believe the tension of magnepan is really high. so stretching it then heat treat i wil become more sloppy then it whas before the heatgun action. and my bed is when the tension it to low it will wack into the magnets.
but let us know i have 4 smg's here that i wanted to do the same thing with addig esl from 300 and up let the magnepan do the thing there pretty good in, the lower octaves without havng to have panels great as doors in ur living room.
but let us know i have 4 smg's here that i wanted to do the same thing with addig esl from 300 and up let the magnepan do the thing there pretty good in, the lower octaves without havng to have panels great as doors in ur living room.
I have rewired many Magnepans, and for tweeter section rewires, I just used Copper Magnet wire from Radio Shack. Worked perfectly. Originals are aluminum, but the Copper may be a bit of an improvement if you ask me.
QUOTE]
it adds weight so its certainly not an improvment. thats the reason they use al
you could use this tape they use in security to tape on windows. its really thin.
So then, of course, using aluminum wire or foil with the DAP should weigh even less. <smile>
But if the wire you used can handle the current, without heating too much, and its mass is low-enough, it should be fine.
We did a little work on the relationships between aluminum wire and foil sizes, lengths, resistances, and weights, a while back, at:
RE: "If we replaced the wire with foil that had 1/4th the mass and 4X the resistance per inch" ... - tom_gootee - Planar Speaker Asylum (Click on the "All" link at the top, to see the rest of the posts.)
RE: "If we replaced the wire with foil that had 1/4th the mass and 4X the resistance per inch" ... - tom_gootee - Planar Speaker Asylum (Click on the "All" link at the top, to see the rest of the posts.)
well same conclussion
get the wire that conducts the best versus weight.that is aluminum.. foil is also easier to aply to the membrane will stick better and in my opinion just gets the movement to the membrane beter then a really tinny heavy wire and allot of glue.
my 2 cents
is the project still running ??? im relaly curious
got uk shop somwhere thats sells 4 mm width alarm tape.
i will take a look if i can find it
weird cant find it , did find some 9 mm, just bit to width i think
http://alarmsuperstore.com/store/in...ducts_id=311&zenid=ru5uc9453oogmcflh1vtfufn36
http://www.alarmworld.co.uk/intruder/door-contacts/window-foil/window-foil/prod_171.html
and some rather expensive 5 mm
http://www.tourmaster.nl/product.asp?hoofdpagina_id=14&product_id=496
THIS ONE IS REALLY CHEAP AND ALL SIZES you could imagine
http://www.themaskingshop.co.uk/detail.asp?catID=1a
i will take a look if i can find it
weird cant find it , did find some 9 mm, just bit to width i think
http://alarmsuperstore.com/store/in...ducts_id=311&zenid=ru5uc9453oogmcflh1vtfufn36
http://www.alarmworld.co.uk/intruder/door-contacts/window-foil/window-foil/prod_171.html
and some rather expensive 5 mm
http://www.tourmaster.nl/product.asp?hoofdpagina_id=14&product_id=496
THIS ONE IS REALLY CHEAP AND ALL SIZES you could imagine
http://www.themaskingshop.co.uk/detail.asp?catID=1a
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tape
Thank you Wrinex for the extra tape information, I have just bought 10 3mm x 50 mtrs tape rolls will save me cutting tape in half with scissors. I have sent a picture of my latest creation using rubber magnet strips, for your perusal. As you see in the picture I use penny washers to trap the foil never had to solder any aluminium tape ever!. The distance between the diaphragm and the magnetic strips is approximately 3mm although this depends on the front MDF sheet thickness, so you can vary it if you so desire. I never use a heat gun. I always use a wood surround and screws and finger power!. This design is about 12 db down on my 4' x 2' design using ferrites and tape in the same design layout of the diaphragm. Hope this is useful to you all!!
Thank you Wrinex for the extra tape information, I have just bought 10 3mm x 50 mtrs tape rolls will save me cutting tape in half with scissors. I have sent a picture of my latest creation using rubber magnet strips, for your perusal. As you see in the picture I use penny washers to trap the foil never had to solder any aluminium tape ever!. The distance between the diaphragm and the magnetic strips is approximately 3mm although this depends on the front MDF sheet thickness, so you can vary it if you so desire. I never use a heat gun. I always use a wood surround and screws and finger power!. This design is about 12 db down on my 4' x 2' design using ferrites and tape in the same design layout of the diaphragm. Hope this is useful to you all!!
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