www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/TDA1517.pdf
** Heatsink the chip again! **
You will need to re-check your wiring.
Note:
This circuit needs single supply only looks like a car stereo circuit for 12V nominal. So only give it 0V and +12V (+9 to +18V max) connections
For example a 12V ac @ 2A or more transformer, 100V PIV 4A bridge and 4700uF or more supply capacitor (rated 25V or more) The 2200uF supply capacitor shown dotted is absolute minimum necessary. a 100uF 25V capacitor close to the + supply and 0V pins of the IC would also be a good idea.
Pins 2 and 5 to be connetced to 0V
Pins 8 and 7 connected to +12V
The output speaker capacitors on pins 4 and 6 must not be left out as there's 6V dc on the outputs that mustn't get to the speakers. for 8 ohms speakers use at least 1000uF, for 4 ohms use at least 2200uF (in either case rated 25V).
The 100uF on pin 3 is to remove hum you might be able to leave it out in battery situations, but for mains power best to keep it. . More uF in this position = better hum reduction and better transient response.
** Heatsink the chip again! **
You will need to re-check your wiring.
Note:
This circuit needs single supply only looks like a car stereo circuit for 12V nominal. So only give it 0V and +12V (+9 to +18V max) connections
For example a 12V ac @ 2A or more transformer, 100V PIV 4A bridge and 4700uF or more supply capacitor (rated 25V or more) The 2200uF supply capacitor shown dotted is absolute minimum necessary. a 100uF 25V capacitor close to the + supply and 0V pins of the IC would also be a good idea.
Pins 2 and 5 to be connetced to 0V
Pins 8 and 7 connected to +12V
The output speaker capacitors on pins 4 and 6 must not be left out as there's 6V dc on the outputs that mustn't get to the speakers. for 8 ohms speakers use at least 1000uF, for 4 ohms use at least 2200uF (in either case rated 25V).
The 100uF on pin 3 is to remove hum you might be able to leave it out in battery situations, but for mains power best to keep it. . More uF in this position = better hum reduction and better transient response.
Last edited:
John R post #30 seems to suggest if you didn't get the supply pins right the first time the chip may be blown.
Have you got a voltmeter?
- what is the DC voltage between 0V and pin 4?
- what is the DC voltage between 0V and pin 6?
Follow the application circuit on P. 8 of the TDA1517 datasheet posted earlier.
Do not put in additional input or feedback resistors as this upsets the DC stable conditions of this chip.
I think I know what this chip is related to and I had some real fun with those types in my past.....
Last edited:
My multimeter alwayis gives wrong readings
John R post #30 seems to suggest if you didn't get the supply pins right the first time the chip may be blown.
Have you got a voltmeter?
- what is the DC voltage between 0V and pin 4?
- what is the DC voltage between 0V and pin 6?
Follow the application circuit on P. 8 of the TDA1517 datasheet posted earlier.
Do not put in additional input or feedback resistors as this upsets the DC stable conditions of this chip.
I think I know what this chip is related to and I had some real fun with those types in my past.....
,sgnd pin wasnt conected to the ground the first tinme i tested it
My multimeter alwayis gives wrong readings
What multimeter is it?
Success
I now have 2 lm1875 modules,and to my whole familys surprise the both work but one of them ,i accidentaly reversed voltage but my psu shut off and my chip lived,if i had used a linear my rather expensive 9ron<equivalent to 2 $> chip would been in flames,also while testing the second amp,the reverse volted one,a big steper motor fell of the shelf for no reason,sud on a black speaker then fell directly on the chip, then directly on my back head,and i kinda blacked out,it took me 5 minutes to realise what happened,and i was desperate to show you my amps so i started to search around the house,could remeber where i put it.
The tda dosent work and i think is dead,otherwise it would have been useless since it wouldnt power up on 5v,
In the pic you can see my tda 2003 powered of 5v working fine,but mono,using a case made out of a vacumcleaner motor.This chip does not get warm at all without heatsink on 5v,So no heatsink needed
Tomorw my friend come to me with a lot of broken pcbs for parts including a radio,a big one which most probably has a chip amp which he wants usb powered,so expect some pictures and questions tomorow morning,and i will ecpect from you quick answers
Have a good day
Ps in the first pic above the transparent box left from my laptop on the shelf the stepper motor sat rhen sud on the black speaker to right picturre,the falling on the chip sitting in the place wher the picture 2 is taken right to my laptop on the corner of the table then on my head as i made the descent for a fallen resistor
Ps 2 the big blue cap is a 10v cap i had given him the name of mr.Mallory,he is usseles due to high esr so no big sparks,but he was cheap only 5 bucks,I think that he brings me luck(he has a smiley face on the back which i turned around accidentaly,he is supposed to face me.
Again have a good one and thanks for your help,especialy blu_glo which has provided me with good help so his name will be written on the pcb
I now have 2 lm1875 modules,and to my whole familys surprise the both work but one of them ,i accidentaly reversed voltage but my psu shut off and my chip lived,if i had used a linear my rather expensive 9ron<equivalent to 2 $
> chip would been in flames,also while testing the second amp,the reverse volted one,a big steper motor fell of the shelf for no reason,sud on a black speaker then fell directly on the chip, then directly on my back head,and i kinda blacked out,it took me 5 minutes to realise what happened,and i was desperate to show you my amps so i started to search around the house,could remeber where i put it.The tda dosent work and i think is dead,otherwise it would have been useless since it wouldnt power up on 5v
,In the pic you can see my tda 2003 powered of 5v working fine,but mono,using a case made out of a vacumcleaner motor.This chip does not get warm at all without heatsink on 5v,So no heatsink needed
Tomorw my friend come to me with a lot of broken pcbs for parts including a radio,a big one which most probably has a chip amp which he wants usb powered,so expect some pictures and questions tomorow morning,and i will ecpect from you quick answers
Have a good day
Ps in the first pic above the transparent box left from my laptop on the shelf the stepper motor sat rhen sud on the black speaker to right picturre,the falling on the chip sitting in the place wher the picture 2 is taken right to my laptop on the corner of the table then on my head as i made the descent for a fallen resistor
Ps 2 the big blue cap is a 10v cap i had given him the name of mr.Mallory,he is usseles due to high esr so no big sparks,but he was cheap only 5 bucks,I think that he brings me luck(he has a smiley face on the back which i turned around accidentaly,he is supposed to face me.
Again have a good one and thanks for your help,especialy blu_glo which has provided me with good help so his name will be written on the pcb
Attachments
![DSCF2884[1].JPG](/community/data/attachments/301/301577-1b1e966c6c12704eb19c7e5e498ccf23.jpg)
![DSCF2883[1].JPG](/community/data/attachments/301/301587-855a6c036099f5d29b595f2da02fa92d.jpg)
Last edited:
I'm surprised you get anythin at all out of the TDA2003 with a 5V supply - the minimum is stated 8V but good if it works.... not much power though before it distorts.
USB power - no really worth it! It's 5V at 0.5A maximum = 2.5W maximum and you have to use special chip to "demand" more than 0.1A so will not give any worthwile power.
You need 12V @ 2A or more, so use a single supply chip like your (expired) TDA one and a 12V plug power supply or make your own for computer audio.... my black monoblocks (one amplifier per case) I posted the pictures are 20W each into 8 ohms would blast your head off playing UNREAL on my old computer, some years back!!
USB power - no really worth it! It's 5V at 0.5A maximum = 2.5W maximum and you have to use special chip to "demand" more than 0.1A so will not give any worthwile power.
You need 12V @ 2A or more, so use a single supply chip like your (expired) TDA one and a 12V plug power supply or make your own for computer audio.... my black monoblocks (one amplifier per case) I posted the pictures are 20W each into 8 ohms would blast your head off playing UNREAL on my old computer, some years back!!
Last edited:
"gainclone" = a silicon chip amplifier with minimal components like you've been building here. Some people really minimise and take out safety and other components but I thgink unless you really have the time and test equipment you should stick to the basic datasheet application circuits. The manufactureres do know how to set them up - after all they invented them!!
Alda avd890d
I can't find that particular one on google but I assume its like some others I did find, general purpose digital multimeter?
Have you checked you haven't blown any of the fuses in it?
Quite easily done if you measure voltage with it set for current - says he from experience - especially if you got a big spark from it in the past....
It sometime not makes good contact but it is generaly good if i dont hold it near magnets and digital devicesI can't find that particular one on google but I assume its like some others I did find, general purpose digital multimeter?
Have you checked you haven't blown any of the fuses in it?
Quite easily done if you measure voltage with it set for current - says he from experience - especially if you got a big spark from it in the past....
Yeh. Get the leads replaced as they're no good faulty and a shame to waste a perfectly good multimeter for the sake of $2 leads.....
I have both but i dont think theyre neede in this small heatsink but in the finaldesign with the transformer and big heatsink i will use the mica insulators
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.