You just made it up so people answers you.
Even somebody telling you this is madness will make you happy.
As in "Hey !!, maybe I can get another 200 or 300 replies on this mad project !!!"
Sorry guys for being rude,i didnt want to be so bu i have mental issues,and im not lying,I will be more calm amd more focused now,i you lease forgive me,please
I didnt write that up for no reason i was just curious if its possible.
one of my lm1875ts has its output stuck to v+,what could be the problem? :
Also i got one my tda2003 working,but one not working,very quiet pop on off on the non working one and then verry weak and distorted audio out of that but from the othe the audio is perfect almost as good as lm1875 when it sorta worked.
I know the rellay amp is very complicate and ridiculous but i would be nearly 100% efficent if i use relays
I didnt write that up for no reason i was just curious if its possible.
one of my lm1875ts has its output stuck to v+,what could be the problem? :
Also i got one my tda2003 working,but one not working,very quiet pop on off on the non working one and then verry weak and distorted audio out of that but from the othe the audio is perfect almost as good as lm1875 when it sorta worked.
I know the rellay amp is very complicate and ridiculous but i would be nearly 100% efficent if i use relays
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OOoo look what i found,could thos gan fet things be used for audio amplifier ,they have low rds on which is good for d amps.
Anyways i thought about the relay amp and is impossible,but if i use a high speed solid state relay and a class d driver i may get what i want.
Here are those gan fets
Benefits of TI GaN FET driver solutions:
Anyways i thought about the relay amp and is impossible,but if i use a high speed solid state relay and a class d driver i may get what i want.
Here are those gan fets
Benefits of TI GaN FET driver solutions:
- Increased power density
- Maximizes dV/dt immunity, prevents accidental low-side turn-on
- Independent source/sink pins optimize turn-on and turn-off times to enhance efficiency and reduce noise
- Low threshold voltage
- Stringent gate-source voltage drive requirements
- Need to limit high-side FET to 6V
- Prevent erratic switching behavior with high dV/dt transients
- Much lower Rdson and Qg
- Higher input voltages
- Greater efficiencies
- Faster switching frequencies
- Ultra-small package footprint for higher density power converters
Help me,my old and crappy living room pc is making high pitch continuous squel trough my usb powered tda 2003,which on my laptom only has a slight hiss,and on my other desktop no noises at all.
Ocasionaly the sound stop for a sec or two and sometimes it changes pitch,it is not dependat from computers volume,and the tda 2003 has no vollume control
Ocasionaly the sound stop for a sec or two and sometimes it changes pitch,it is not dependat from computers volume,and the tda 2003 has no vollume control
<< it took me 2 hours to solder all that crap in cause my soldering iron sucks and i never used perfboard >>
Your soldering iron is fine. It took you 2 hours because you believed the fairy tale about flux-core solder being all you need.
It's not. Use 1/32" solder and Ignore the flux core. Use a general-purpose flux like Radio Shack's, or you can get it on eBay. A tin of flux will probably last you a lifetime.
From a plastic milk carton or such, cut an applicator(s). Big enough for your hand to hold, but with a smallish point for applying flux. Not too smallish. Back in the tube days techs used to say "there's no such thing as too much flux," and the rule still applies.
Technically you're supposed to clean off the the flux residue when you're done soldering--although many don't. If you do (which is certainly good practice), either mineral spirits or alcohol will do the job. Both are available in quarts from Home BigBox. Real denatured alcohol, not the stuff from the drugstore. The universal cleaning tool is an old toothbrush.
If you can't tell, people trying to solder without using flux is a pet peeve of mine. The last thing you need to do is spend $200 for what marketers call a "soldering station." Unless you like that kind of thing, of course. But all you really need is flux, and to wait untl the iron gets hot. It's hot when it instantly melts the solder you apply to test.
Oh yes! When you're soldering pots try not to let a lot of flux run down into the works. Try to solder pots with the contacts pointing down.
Your soldering iron is fine. It took you 2 hours because you believed the fairy tale about flux-core solder being all you need.
It's not. Use 1/32" solder and Ignore the flux core. Use a general-purpose flux like Radio Shack's, or you can get it on eBay. A tin of flux will probably last you a lifetime.
From a plastic milk carton or such, cut an applicator(s). Big enough for your hand to hold, but with a smallish point for applying flux. Not too smallish. Back in the tube days techs used to say "there's no such thing as too much flux," and the rule still applies.
Technically you're supposed to clean off the the flux residue when you're done soldering--although many don't. If you do (which is certainly good practice), either mineral spirits or alcohol will do the job. Both are available in quarts from Home BigBox. Real denatured alcohol, not the stuff from the drugstore. The universal cleaning tool is an old toothbrush.
If you can't tell, people trying to solder without using flux is a pet peeve of mine. The last thing you need to do is spend $200 for what marketers call a "soldering station." Unless you like that kind of thing, of course. But all you really need is flux, and to wait untl the iron gets hot. It's hot when it instantly melts the solder you apply to test.
Oh yes! When you're soldering pots try not to let a lot of flux run down into the works. Try to solder pots with the contacts pointing down.
I used a crappy old solder gun which each 5 mins of use had to sit half an hour to cool donw its transformer,
No i have a very big soldering iron(15 inches long)Which had a tip as thick as my thumb,so i sharpenend it with a file and now i can even solder smd parts
Im building two apex b500 now with rewound mots since they are cheap,but i need to go to someone who has laser printer,and then buy the parts and mots and rewind them and give the weak lm1875 to my mom to use in her room.BUT firest i have to find why its output is stuck to v+ but i cant test it since i lost its plug adapter
Hi...
I think if u would have build the Amplifier Correctly (LM1875 gainclone) according to schematic and your soldering are nice, u should get the amp working perfectly ...
here is a sample of mine how it should be done ... u can freely use as a reference as i gave u some ideas and hints to go around ... feel free to reply me and i can try my best to help u out
cheers and good luck
I think if u would have build the Amplifier Correctly (LM1875 gainclone) according to schematic and your soldering are nice, u should get the amp working perfectly ...
here is a sample of mine how it should be done ... u can freely use as a reference as i gave u some ideas and hints to go around ... feel free to reply me and i can try my best to help u out
cheers and good luck
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your amp is quite nice but thos bridges are way overkill.
I have changed my post to this one below so please post andy further posts in that one
LINK
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/lounge/230758-petruvs-corner-forum.html#post3384056
I have changed my post to this one below so please post andy further posts in that one
LINK
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/lounge/230758-petruvs-corner-forum.html#post3384056
Congrats!,where did you score it and what model,my curiosity is killing meI have an Stk module
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