Thanks for the reply. I built the dual 8" MCM version of the box. I can only partially dampen the buzzing by pressing on the sides. I have one bar of foam in each void behind the woofer as bracing. I didn't use plywood behind the driver. I used cardboard and adhesive caulk as a backer with drywall screws. I'm currently leaning towards cutting one large panel off, bracing more, and adding plywood behind the drivers and giving it another go. It will be another week or so before I can get to this.
Thanks for the reply! Either way, it was a fun build.
Thanks for the reply! Either way, it was a fun build.
I wonder how small a design with this woofer
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w5-1138smf-5-1-4-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-917[/URL] could be done.
I need a subwoofer or two to go under my TV-table but I theres only 19 cm space in the hight there and then 35 x 25 if I need two subs.
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w5-1138smf-5-1-4-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-917[/URL] could be done.
I need a subwoofer or two to go under my TV-table but I theres only 19 cm space in the hight there and then 35 x 25 if I need two subs.
Alternative 5" drivers?
Could the Dayton Audio PA130-16 5" work?
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa130-16-5-full-range-pa-driver-16-ohm--295-012
Currently on a special at PE. So are the TC9FD18's - could be my lucky day for shopping!
Could the Dayton Audio PA130-16 5" work?
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa130-16-5-full-range-pa-driver-16-ohm--295-012
Currently on a special at PE. So are the TC9FD18's - could be my lucky day for shopping!
The Fs is too high to call it a sub, and and Qts is pretty high too. To create something like the original, you'd need drivers with Qts of about 0.3 to 0.4 and Fs <60Hz.
The Dayton Audio DC130B-8 5-1/4 looks like a much better match.
If you want a super simple build (e.g. if you have no test gear), you could try a sealed version, e.g. Goldwood GW-6024 6-1/2" Butyl Surround Woofer 4 Ohm.
Thank you for the info hollowboy. I am still learning about all these parameters.
This Goldwood driver looks very very promising, and also on a special currently
. There is an 8 ohm version too. Will have to do more reading in the woofer threads - I know nothing about building sub woofers (yet).
Haha, when I entered this thread, I thought there will be something like 15" 60l box built on 9-13mm ply, but now I see you MEAN IT :-D :-D :-D
Wanted to chime in with my 15mm ply 21" box, but now I see it would be horrible offtopic here. I´m looking forward to build my first TH with 3"-4" driver and cardboard and hot glue then! :-D
Good job!
Wanted to chime in with my 15mm ply 21" box, but now I see it would be horrible offtopic here. I´m looking forward to build my first TH with 3"-4" driver and cardboard and hot glue then! :-D
Good job!
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diyrookie, I'm responding to your PM here, cos:
a) I often miss messages
b) I prefer to keep the theory stuff on the public forum, for group wisdoms / so other people can shout out if I make a mistake
For the Goldwood GW-6024 drivers you've ordered, the Parts Express suggestion (~10 litres) is OK. The joy of sealed boxes is that there is a lot of wiggle room. 5-20 litres per driver is fine. I'd personally go for the larger end of that range.
Sealed boxes are also very forgiving if the driver specs are wrong (and you cannot easily test them). Try plugging the Fs, Qts and VAS into a sealed box calculator like this:
mh-audio.nl - Home
...and note how little difference it makes if you vary the enclosure size by a few litres, or change the Fs by 10%. The room and speaker position will have a bigger effect than this.
If I was building such a sub the xrk971 way (in an apartment, with minimal tools), I'd make use of found objects - e.g. you could use a milk crate as the skeleton, and skin that with stiff cardboard + paper mache.
I'd place the finished cabinet in a corner, and stack something heavy on top.
a) I often miss messages
b) I prefer to keep the theory stuff on the public forum, for group wisdoms / so other people can shout out if I make a mistake
For the Goldwood GW-6024 drivers you've ordered, the Parts Express suggestion (~10 litres) is OK. The joy of sealed boxes is that there is a lot of wiggle room. 5-20 litres per driver is fine. I'd personally go for the larger end of that range.
Sealed boxes are also very forgiving if the driver specs are wrong (and you cannot easily test them). Try plugging the Fs, Qts and VAS into a sealed box calculator like this:
mh-audio.nl - Home
...and note how little difference it makes if you vary the enclosure size by a few litres, or change the Fs by 10%. The room and speaker position will have a bigger effect than this.
If I was building such a sub the xrk971 way (in an apartment, with minimal tools), I'd make use of found objects - e.g. you could use a milk crate as the skeleton, and skin that with stiff cardboard + paper mache.
I'd place the finished cabinet in a corner, and stack something heavy on top.
Got my hot glue fibreboard, Light as air Tapped Horn with Monacor SPM-115. Real fun! It´s awesome what this TH can get from the driver I considered as useless. I would definitely recommend THs for these who want most SPL from the driver.
It has its shortcoming though - size, shape is hard to make for mobile applications, and I didn´t like the sound. Even after some DSPing, it sounded quite boomy around 60Hz (which is one of my room modes) My BR box with 18SW115 doesn´t do that so prominently though.
Here is fast sketch:
PicFront - FunTH.png
Here is HR sim:
http://www.picfront.org/d/9xFp
Here is photo of that "beast":
PicFront - TH02.jpg
Here is near field quick measurement:
PicFront - th01.png
Left is RAW, right measurement is after some DSPing.
It´s solid 40Hz-er for home usage.
Didn´t measure impedance curve, as my tool got broken. Maybe next time.
Thank you for inspiration!!!
It has its shortcoming though - size, shape is hard to make for mobile applications, and I didn´t like the sound. Even after some DSPing, it sounded quite boomy around 60Hz (which is one of my room modes) My BR box with 18SW115 doesn´t do that so prominently though.
Here is fast sketch:
PicFront - FunTH.png
Here is HR sim:
http://www.picfront.org/d/9xFp
Here is photo of that "beast":
PicFront - TH02.jpg
Here is near field quick measurement:
PicFront - th01.png
Left is RAW, right measurement is after some DSPing.
It´s solid 40Hz-er for home usage.
Didn´t measure impedance curve, as my tool got broken. Maybe next time.
Thank you for inspiration!!!
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Here is a design that I came up with:
Each rear chamber is 33 liters and box has two chambers of internal dimensions of 10in high, 14in deep, 14.4in wide. There is a central slot of dimensions 10in high x 14in deep x 7.5in wide. There is a wraparound slot vent connecting each rear chamber to the central slot vent with dimensions of 1in wide x 10in high x 28in long (each). Use a -24dB/oct 28.5Hz high pass filter and a -48dB/oct 90Hz low-pass filter.
Drivers are wired in parallel so I am assuming you have a 2ohm capable amp?
Here is predicted sensitivity at 2.83v and 1m:
Here is cone displacement at max voltage of 14v rms:
Here is max SPL frequency response at 14v rms:
Here is calculated impedance (note tuning is about 35Hz):
Here is max velocities in rear chamber (black), wraparound vents (red), and slot (green) - you might want to make slot a bit wider to reduce chuffing noise:
Here is electrical power:
Attachments
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XRK, you're THE MAN!
Thank you very much. Will start drawing plans right this morning.
The speakers will be bi-amped, but I haven't decided on which plate amp.
Greets from Vienna
Gerald
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