Re: Re: A little update of my own... 
Hello Shin,
It was a great thing you came along with your request when you did because Brian and I have been wanting to bring this "uber controller" and several different modules like the PGA module you will be using to our kit builders for a long time. I just needed a little kick in the pants, and seeing your nice speakers and a real need for it I decided to get off my can and just get it done.
The PGA modules actually can be utilized independently with the exact same controller, just different firmware, and now that I am getting my feet wet with state machine type firmware programming I don't think it will be that hard to do. Its just the initial implementation for you will be all one level at first (version 1), Later I will provide all sorts of firmware versions. For example you could do a 7.1 surround system with 8 PGA modules(active) or 8 Joshua Tree modules(passive attenuator) with a new driver board I am creating for those. Also the Darwin source selector will have a driver modules designed to work with "Uber Controller"
The idea is to try to design a pretty universal preamp controller with lot of modules available and built to order firmware.
The controller has provision for two rotary encoders with push switch (for receiver type analog control) and an IR decoder for RC5 remotes. The firmware will be learning type, so you can map keys to functions as you like. Then use your universal remote.
Anyway I am very excited to get it working. My mockup rig is working just fine so far, even the non-volatile memory used to remember the current state across power cycles.
Anyway I will likely start a thread covering the new circuits in detail. Thanks Ant for getting me off the listening chair for a bit doing the other stuff I enjoy. It makes the listening chair that much more enjoyable at the end of the day.
Cheers!
Russ
ShinOBIWAN said:
Hello Shin,
It was a great thing you came along with your request when you did because Brian and I have been wanting to bring this "uber controller" and several different modules like the PGA module you will be using to our kit builders for a long time. I just needed a little kick in the pants, and seeing your nice speakers and a real need for it I decided to get off my can and just get it done.
The PGA modules actually can be utilized independently with the exact same controller, just different firmware, and now that I am getting my feet wet with state machine type firmware programming I don't think it will be that hard to do. Its just the initial implementation for you will be all one level at first (version 1), Later I will provide all sorts of firmware versions. For example you could do a 7.1 surround system with 8 PGA modules(active) or 8 Joshua Tree modules(passive attenuator) with a new driver board I am creating for those. Also the Darwin source selector will have a driver modules designed to work with "Uber Controller"
The idea is to try to design a pretty universal preamp controller with lot of modules available and built to order firmware.
The controller has provision for two rotary encoders with push switch (for receiver type analog control) and an IR decoder for RC5 remotes. The firmware will be learning type, so you can map keys to functions as you like. Then use your universal remote.
Anyway I am very excited to get it working. My mockup rig is working just fine so far, even the non-volatile memory used to remember the current state across power cycles.
Anyway I will likely start a thread covering the new circuits in detail. Thanks Ant for getting me off the listening chair for a bit doing the other stuff I enjoy.
It makes the listening chair that much more enjoyable at the end of the day.Cheers!
Russ
Re: Re: Re: A little update of my own...
Hey Russ.
That's just excellent news for everyone. The number of folks using digital or analogue active circuitry to do the crossover duties for their loudspeaker is increasing daily and I personally feel there's a big need for something like this. There's nothing out there for us kit builders that will touch it.
Up until we spoke about this I've always felt as though I was compromising and never had the performance or functionality I was looking for in preamp. Since we're all DIY'ers here I think we'd agree that our demands are quite high at times. This uber-pre fullfils all my requirements and such is the level of flexibility afforded by the upgradable firmware and modular approach, people will be able to pick and choose exactly what they need:
Its quite organic this project of Russ's and the feature set evolves and grows each time we speak. So I wouldn't be surprised if there's even more than that to come.
The mind boggles at the possibilities. Its all down to what you want with little overall compromise. I'd just like to thank you again Russ for this extraordinary effort.
I'll definitely agree with that.
Russ White said:
Hey Russ.
That's just excellent news for everyone. The number of folks using digital or analogue active circuitry to do the crossover duties for their loudspeaker is increasing daily and I personally feel there's a big need for something like this. There's nothing out there for us kit builders that will touch it.
Up until we spoke about this I've always felt as though I was compromising and never had the performance or functionality I was looking for in preamp. Since we're all DIY'ers here I think we'd agree that our demands are quite high at times. This uber-pre fullfils all my requirements and such is the level of flexibility afforded by the upgradable firmware and modular approach, people will be able to pick and choose exactly what they need:
- Number of in/out channels determined by you
- When used in conjunction with Hypex Softstarts you gain the ability to turn on or off all the amp modules when the preamp is itself turned on or off. Very convenient feature if you have a lot of amps to power on.
- Option of active or passive attenuation
- Balanced or single ended operation
- Source selection via PCB addon module
- Remote control functionality
- Rotary encoded manual volume
- PLED display with customisable options such as displaying text of your choice when idle as well as functional information like volume level, source, mute etc.
Its quite organic this project of Russ's and the feature set evolves and grows each time we speak. So I wouldn't be surprised if there's even more than that to come.
The mind boggles at the possibilities. Its all down to what you want with little overall compromise. I'd just like to thank you again Russ for this extraordinary effort.
Thanks Ant for getting me off the listening chair for a bit doing the other stuff I enjoy.
Cheers!
Russ
I'll definitely agree with that.
m0tion said:
Good question.
I guess you could fit upto 8 of the GB300 modules I'm using into a single ATI chassis. I'm not sure if the heatsinks would be rated to cool all that though.
The biggest concern for me was optimal layout and a large chassis such as this allows plenty of option to keep the traffo's away from the modules as well as route all the inputs well out of the way etc.
Last year I had a pair of GB300's and from experience they are incredibly quiet once you give them a good layout. I could literally hold my ear up against a 94dB/1w tweeter and couldn't hear a thing which something not many amps do and I wanted to be sure I kept that.
ReTrO said:
Yes they're the NLT4MP:
http://www.thomann.de/gb/neutrik_nlt4mpbag_speakoneinbaubuchse.htm
They do have a rubber O ring that provides an air tight interface between the connector and the cabinet.
I also recently found out you get a gasket to fit these and using these makes the installation look much more proffesional IMO. It also has the side benefit of offering plenty of room for installing driver sealing strip on the back of it to make doubly sure your air tight.
http://www.thomann.de/gb/neutrik_nlt_sc_nlt_gummidichtung.htm
I realised the actaul Speakon connectors are airtight, just wasn't sure abotu the tidiest way of keeping them sleaed with the cabinet. Those rubber 'mounts' do look like a neat solution. The previous Speakon sockest I purchased didn't come with anything to make them airtight out of the box.
Cheers chaps.
Cheers chaps.
Wow
I am new to do it DIY home audio, allthough I have done some pro sound enclosures, I started reading here to get some inspiration for a tower design, and like I said, Wow, Inspired, overwhelmed, amazed....just a few words that come to mind, I cannot wait to see the finished product! And it's cool you use Corel draw, I use it for basic engineering drawing's at work, thank you for the amazing project! Now I'll have to come up with something really interesting! Cheers.
I am new to do it DIY home audio, allthough I have done some pro sound enclosures, I started reading here to get some inspiration for a tower design, and like I said, Wow, Inspired, overwhelmed, amazed....just a few words that come to mind, I cannot wait to see the finished product! And it's cool you use Corel draw, I use it for basic engineering drawing's at work, thank you for the amazing project! Now I'll have to come up with something really interesting! Cheers.
Finished modifying the RAAL faceplate to get the look I was wanting. Just need to pad the rear a little so it doesn't sit as deep in the recess.
I'm going to grab some black dye and do the foam deflectors as they just look odd at the moment. Hopefully they'll blend a little better then.
And another baffle trim done
I'm going to grab some black dye and do the foam deflectors as they just look odd at the moment. Hopefully they'll blend a little better then.
And another baffle trim done
MJL21193 said:
The foam broadens the vertical directivity and removes most of the off axis combing in the extreme high frequencies.
RAAL's explanation for the foam:
Also, the wide angle polar response is of great importance for the natural reproduction, therefore using the larger ribbon drivers bares a problem, since they are showing very intensive “beaming” of high frequencies, as they are line sources far bigger than the wavelengths of high frequencies in audible range. For model 140-15D, we found the solution for that problem in using the specially shaped foam pads in front of the ribbon. The dispersion pads are working as an acoustic lens, by slowing down the velocity of sound and thus shaping the sound wave front from cylindrical to spherical. The parasitic effect of partial sound absorption is inevitable, but acceptable. The pads are magnetic and they can slide on the front plate. By adjusting the distance between the pads, sliding them toward or apart each other, it is possible to shape the on-axis linearity vs. wide angle vertical polar response. In this way anyone can adjust the high frequency output by his-hers own liking. If the pads are completely removed, 15 kHz on-axis response is increased in level of about 7 dB.
And a better shot of the driver
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
lookin good-no scratch that..-great!
You have probably mentioned it earlier, but my mind boggles at re-reading it all again, so forgive me for asking you to repeat it.
The material you have put on the baffles looks fantastic and really is set off against the paint. What is it??, and would it be available in Australia (maybe under a different name I don't know).
Am looking around for nice material to put on my future builds, leather or an acceptable lookalike is high on my list at the moment, but I do like the look of what you are using.
My big problem is when I mount my tweeter, it's the cabasse Dom 40 which (awkward french!) is mounted from the rear, a proverbial PITA. So unlike face mounted drivers I can't cover up any ragged holes by mounting the driver itself, the material has to somehow be securely rolled over into the hole (if that description made sense) and the edge be hidden inside the hole by the driver. Understand??
Do you think that material can be gently eased over into the hole and secured sufficiently to allow the driver to be inserted later?? I hope my description made sense.
You have probably mentioned it earlier, but my mind boggles at re-reading it all again, so forgive me for asking you to repeat it.
The material you have put on the baffles looks fantastic and really is set off against the paint. What is it??, and would it be available in Australia (maybe under a different name I don't know).
Am looking around for nice material to put on my future builds, leather or an acceptable lookalike is high on my list at the moment, but I do like the look of what you are using.
My big problem is when I mount my tweeter, it's the cabasse Dom 40 which (awkward french!) is mounted from the rear, a proverbial PITA. So unlike face mounted drivers I can't cover up any ragged holes by mounting the driver itself, the material has to somehow be securely rolled over into the hole (if that description made sense) and the edge be hidden inside the hole by the driver. Understand??
Do you think that material can be gently eased over into the hole and secured sufficiently to allow the driver to be inserted later?? I hope my description made sense.
Ant,
I doubt you can dye the pads. I tried to bleach some very similar acoustic foam and even neat, it didn't affect the colour one bit. What you might do is cover the pads in a very thin layer of black fabric.
I have some that might do the tick without messing up the sound. It might need 2 or 3 layers but like I said it is very thin and open. If you want me to send you some just email me your address.
I doubt you can dye the pads. I tried to bleach some very similar acoustic foam and even neat, it didn't affect the colour one bit. What you might do is cover the pads in a very thin layer of black fabric.
I have some that might do the tick without messing up the sound. It might need 2 or 3 layers but like I said it is very thin and open. If you want me to send you some just email me your address.
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