SQ and SPL are two terms used often in car audio -- SQ refers to sound quality, where as you tune your bass to sound really good, and natural and not overpowering. SPL is where you tune your car just to be very loud, and heard from far away -- often it uses a huge slot port, tuned >50hz which results in a horrible boomy response, but is very loud. In any event, SQ sacrifices some loudness for better frequency / transient response. I always tune for SQ becuase i like to enjoy my music, not feel it
as far as my setup, its simply a sealed fiberglassed box, with acoustuff inside. About 1.5cubes per jl10w0 getting 300w rms each (only rated for 125rms but handles 300 fine)
-chris
as far as my setup, its simply a sealed fiberglassed box, with acoustuff inside. About 1.5cubes per jl10w0 getting 300w rms each (only rated for 125rms but handles 300 fine)
-chris
Right. My horn is going to fire out the back of my car, for external listening. Thats why I need a huge amp. I realise I could easily get low frequencies and high output with cabin gain. I will also have a couple of 15's (probably the Adire Tempest or Tumult or Brahma 15), with a Linkitz Transform for internal listening.
If no one says otherwise, im going to set my heart on the JBL GTO1201.1 amp. I wonder if I can get a discount if I buy 8+...
If no one says otherwise, im going to set my heart on the JBL GTO1201.1 amp. I wonder if I can get a discount if I buy 8+...
my setup?
the subs are supposed to handle only about less than 100 watts. I overdriven it to 170 watts RMS per sub.
each sub is housed in an independent 0.75cu ft chamber and the front of the woofer is slot loaded. (basically, the front baffle has a "wall" around the three sides, one left open for the sound to come out, the walls are about 2" high) so the result is much like a bandpass cab. leave the rest to cabin gain.
note: my sub box is facing down so the front baffle, walls, and the floor make up the front chamber.
the subs are supposed to handle only about less than 100 watts. I overdriven it to 170 watts RMS per sub.
each sub is housed in an independent 0.75cu ft chamber and the front of the woofer is slot loaded. (basically, the front baffle has a "wall" around the three sides, one left open for the sound to come out, the walls are about 2" high) so the result is much like a bandpass cab. leave the rest to cabin gain.
note: my sub box is facing down so the front baffle, walls, and the floor make up the front chamber.
Anything with the name "Legacy," "Pyle," "Power Acoustik," etc is automatically a piece of s**t.
It is just the cheapest of the cheap....you really need to stay away from them!
I don't know how those companies get away with what they do...I was recently enlisted to repair a Pyle amp and it was the worst POS I have ever seen in my life...tiny PCB power traces, 2 X 1000W rating (10 amp fuse ). Finally got it working again and it sounded like poop too. They are a waste of time, bottom line.
-Matt
It is just the cheapest of the cheap....you really need to stay away from them!
I don't know how those companies get away with what they do...I was recently enlisted to repair a Pyle amp and it was the worst POS I have ever seen in my life...tiny PCB power traces, 2 X 1000W rating (10 amp fuse
). Finally got it working again and it sounded like poop too. They are a waste of time, bottom line.-Matt
DIY
Matttcattt,
Why on Earth don't u make your own amplifier? With a little help from SMPS thread (search 4 "SMPS" here on the forum) and another bit of help done by Amplifiers thread u coult easly get started, even if u have little budget u could aftewards show all your friends what you're capable of!
Matttcattt,
Why on Earth don't u make your own amplifier? With a little help from SMPS thread (search 4 "SMPS" here on the forum) and another bit of help done by Amplifiers thread u coult easly get started, even if u have little budget u could aftewards show all your friends what you're capable of!
sub-woofers
I recomand you to have a look at "JL Audio" loudspeakers, they really got me!
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/index.html
I recomand you to have a look at "JL Audio" loudspeakers, they really got me!
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/index.html
jbl subs...
Any driver pushed beyond it's rating in any capacity can fall apart, esspecially if it's driven with a crappy amp or not enough power (worse for a driver than too much power) or way too much power. JBL is used in cabinets by some of the most prestigious pro audio companys out there. (Some EAW, Harrison, Clair Bro's) as well as a growing # of european cabinet manufacturers. They wouldn't use them if they were crap. Thier car audio stuff I dunno about, as they probably don't manufacture any of it themselves.
Any driver pushed beyond it's rating in any capacity can fall apart, esspecially if it's driven with a crappy amp or not enough power (worse for a driver than too much power) or way too much power. JBL is used in cabinets by some of the most prestigious pro audio companys out there. (Some EAW, Harrison, Clair Bro's) as well as a growing # of european cabinet manufacturers. They wouldn't use them if they were crap. Thier car audio stuff I dunno about, as they probably don't manufacture any of it themselves.
Re: DIY
I could, but it would be a serious project, and it is so much easier to buy one. I probably wouldnt save much money by making one either.
If im paying £250+ (each) for the drivers, I might as well spend £200 on the amps.
[edit]: Then again, I could always buy an amp like this one and make an SMPS for it, then I could use it in my car and at home. http://www.bkelec.com/Diy/mf1000.html
Then again, it would still be more than the JBL1201.1, but would probably have a higher output.
Polimorph said:
I could, but it would be a serious project, and it is so much easier to buy one. I probably wouldnt save much money by making one either.
If im paying £250+ (each) for the drivers, I might as well spend £200 on the amps.
[edit]: Then again, I could always buy an amp like this one and make an SMPS for it, then I could use it in my car and at home. http://www.bkelec.com/Diy/mf1000.html
Then again, it would still be more than the JBL1201.1, but would probably have a higher output.
saying too little power or crappy power hurts a speaker is just ludricrous and shows your lack of understanding of how speakers work -- JBL amps are very solid and very good, the jbl bp 1200.1 is rated at 1200w continous @ 12v and mine bench tested at 1305 watts. The JBL GTi subwoofers are amazing subwoofers. Ive never dealt with their PA equipment, but their top end car stuff is definitely good equipment
-chris
-chris
The old JBL made good stuff, the old car amps in the GT range i know where great, with good solid designs and Nichicon caps galore, the new stuff is pretty but not in the same league! the new drivers are not that good, the windings are thinner than ever and the magnetic plates are barely saturated!, i know i recone ones that get fryed by young boys in there toys!
Oh i think imix500 ment when am amp is over driven and it starts sending out distortion and voltage, that can heat up a coil and damage it very quickly, he is right! Make love not War kids
Oh i think imix500 ment when am amp is over driven and it starts sending out distortion and voltage, that can heat up a coil and damage it very quickly, he is right! Make love not War kids
saying too little power or crappy power hurts a speaker is just ludricrous and shows your lack of understanding of how speakers work
I found that rather rude, when your right, who needs 1000 watts into 1 voice coil, thats just silly, the first 100 watts is the most effective after that you need 10 times the power to double the voume, but thats 10 times the heat, voice coils are made from copper, not tungsten like in light bulbs,
Always get highly sensitive speakers so you dont need a thundering battery melting gigawatt amplifier! a speaker can only be as loud as its x max will allow it to be, once its reached its limit stop!!!. more power is just heat! that it dont need, so stop it, no self respecting hi-fi lover blows drive units, they can here distortion long before trouble starts! only fools blow things up.
I found that rather rude, when your right, who needs 1000 watts into 1 voice coil, thats just silly, the first 100 watts is the most effective after that you need 10 times the power to double the voume, but thats 10 times the heat, voice coils are made from copper, not tungsten like in light bulbs,
Always get highly sensitive speakers so you dont need a thundering battery melting gigawatt amplifier! a speaker can only be as loud as its x max will allow it to be, once its reached its limit stop!!!. more power is just heat! that it dont need, so stop it, no self respecting hi-fi lover blows drive units, they can here distortion long before trouble starts! only fools blow things up.
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