A soft start will not affect the sound at all unless it's a terribly poor design or implementation.
It will mean that you don't need to oversize the fuse in the primary of the transformer which means it will be better protected. It will reduce the stresses caused by the massive inrush current making your system more reliable and the life of components much longer. It will stop your lights dimming.
If you leave your unit on and use a standby function with the Predator, I believe that it just powers down the gate drive circuitry and the main PSU caps remain charged. So you will not get any inrush currents with this as long as the unit remains connected to the mains. However, by leaving the PSU caps charged all the time you considerably reduce their lifespan. IMO it's bad to leave any equipment at all in standby.
And yes, I do have a nice soft start module designed and I am just awaiting final testing before I publish the design onto my website, which shouldn't be long. LC Audio also do a nice soft start module.
It will mean that you don't need to oversize the fuse in the primary of the transformer which means it will be better protected. It will reduce the stresses caused by the massive inrush current making your system more reliable and the life of components much longer. It will stop your lights dimming.
If you leave your unit on and use a standby function with the Predator, I believe that it just powers down the gate drive circuitry and the main PSU caps remain charged. So you will not get any inrush currents with this as long as the unit remains connected to the mains. However, by leaving the PSU caps charged all the time you considerably reduce their lifespan. IMO it's bad to leave any equipment at all in standby.
And yes, I do have a nice soft start module designed and I am just awaiting final testing before I publish the design onto my website, which shouldn't be long. LC Audio also do a nice soft start module.
Hi,
Well it's nice to have a "mute" function yes? You can turn it off to take a phone call or something but it likely isn't ideally used when you go to work or leave for a weeks vacation.
At a 1000VA there really becomes a need for soft start. It may just dim the lights sometimes, and others it may just blow your fuse, inrush depends on the phase of the AC when you turn it off, and on. So you may find that it still blows it every few other times you turn it on, depending on your luck.
It's up to you though, but I wouldn't let one poor experience with it beat me, or use it as a reason to advocate not needing one.
Regards,
Chris
Well it's nice to have a "mute" function yes? You can turn it off to take a phone call or something but it likely isn't ideally used when you go to work or leave for a weeks vacation.
At a 1000VA there really becomes a need for soft start. It may just dim the lights sometimes, and others it may just blow your fuse, inrush depends on the phase of the AC when you turn it off, and on. So you may find that it still blows it every few other times you turn it on, depending on your luck.
It's up to you though, but I wouldn't let one poor experience with it beat me, or use it as a reason to advocate not needing one.
Regards,
Chris
Well it was LC Audios softstart module and they recommended me to buy one,but now it`s gone and the amp really plays good.And yes it was affecting the sound as i see it.I will send it back and get a new one,if the same thing happens i will use the amp without(i have paid for it so i would like to have it work).Nothing specially happens when i start up so i don`t really know what`s the use of it anyway.blaaberg said:Hey,
Why use a soft start, if the Zap starts up without blowing some fuse?
Such things must degrade the performance anyway.
I`ve use one 800W trafo in both of my monoblocks, and they starts up just fine. The lights dimm in the room, but no fuses blow
Venlig hilsen Jan Jensen
sven-ake said:
The basic -and only- thing that a softstart should do is completely shortcut some serial resistance to the primaries some time (~1 second) after applying the mains current to the system. Maybe a softstart that has its own, dedicated, transformer badly placed, or that has extremely noisy or high current switching components (but what poor softstart would that be...?) will affect the sound of the amp.
As richie00boy pointed out, the inrush current, during maybe some tenths of a second, can cause serious stress to the transformer and maybe to other parts of the circuit. This is illustrated by the fact that some older large transformers, especially with U or E cores, can actually make significant acoustic noise as the windings try to disform due to the sudden large induction, when no inrush current control is applied.
vp4 ext. gatedrive
Hi.
Im currently building an 9 channel zapamp using 2,2, partially on vp4 supply. I want to use the ext. gatedrive on the vp4, but it dosnt work; I get only noise, like white noise...I need the ext. gate to minimise heat from the module...
I'm sure its the gate drive; I've removed the bubble on the module, and it plays fine with the internal gate. Pointers anyone??
Lars??
regards Per.
Hi.
Im currently building an 9 channel zapamp using 2,2, partially on vp4 supply. I want to use the ext. gatedrive on the vp4, but it dosnt work; I get only noise, like white noise...I need the ext. gate to minimise heat from the module...
I'm sure its the gate drive; I've removed the bubble on the module, and it plays fine with the internal gate. Pointers anyone??
Lars??
regards Per.
Zappulse 2.3SE
Hello,
I build a bridge zappulse 2.3SE monoblocks and the results are poor no more depth and no details in the music they are gone.
Before I had the Zappulse 2.2SE (no bridging) and they sound very good.
What is the reason that the sound aren’t open, the scheme I took is from the Zap 2.2SE cookbook.
Please can anybody help to get a better sound with my bridge Zappulse 2.3SE.
1 Monoblock:
1 x Amplimo ringkern transformator 2000Va 2 x 42 Volt.
2 x 47.000µF 80 Volt type Mundorf M-Lytic HC.
Here you see the pictures of my amplifier: http://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?topic=17055.615
Greetings,
Rudy
Hello,
I build a bridge zappulse 2.3SE monoblocks and the results are poor no more depth and no details in the music they are gone.
Before I had the Zappulse 2.2SE (no bridging) and they sound very good.
What is the reason that the sound aren’t open, the scheme I took is from the Zap 2.2SE cookbook.
Please can anybody help to get a better sound with my bridge Zappulse 2.3SE.
1 Monoblock:
1 x Amplimo ringkern transformator 2000Va 2 x 42 Volt.
2 x 47.000µF 80 Volt type Mundorf M-Lytic HC.
Here you see the pictures of my amplifier: http://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?topic=17055.615
Greetings,
Rudy
Hey,
The first 75-100 hours the bass changed a lot. From playing beside and under the middle, it became a integrated part of it.
The treeble then changed from harsh and rough, and become clear and detailed up to the 300 hours. Very little happent after that. My Zappulse had now played about 750 hours, and I`m very happy with it.
The perspektive seem to be OK from about 25 hours.
SUM: The Zappulse is horrible the first 150 hours of it`s life!!!!
Of course my ears can`t remember all, and this is very subjective. But some of the changes are so dramatical, that you cant avoid them!
I don`t know if it`s the BC caps on the modul, my BC 154 electrolyts or something else, that require this burnin`- maybee other can tell?
LC audio tell, that the 2.3SE modul should be better sounding than 2.2SE. Better treeble, and a little softer with the BC instead of the Black Gates. All on their homepage http://www.lcaudio.dk
You have yourself head the difference between a new 2.3SE and a old 2.2SE
Would you please tell, if you had the same experence with the burn in? -It would be nice to know.
I mean LC had a problem with this, not mention it anywhere.
Venlig hilsen Jan Jensen
The first 75-100 hours the bass changed a lot. From playing beside and under the middle, it became a integrated part of it.
The treeble then changed from harsh and rough, and become clear and detailed up to the 300 hours. Very little happent after that. My Zappulse had now played about 750 hours, and I`m very happy with it.
The perspektive seem to be OK from about 25 hours.
SUM: The Zappulse is horrible the first 150 hours of it`s life!!!!
Of course my ears can`t remember all, and this is very subjective. But some of the changes are so dramatical, that you cant avoid them!
I don`t know if it`s the BC caps on the modul, my BC 154 electrolyts or something else, that require this burnin`- maybee other can tell?
LC audio tell, that the 2.3SE modul should be better sounding than 2.2SE. Better treeble, and a little softer with the BC instead of the Black Gates. All on their homepage http://www.lcaudio.dk
You have yourself head the difference between a new 2.3SE and a old 2.2SE
Would you please tell, if you had the same experence with the burn in? -It would be nice to know.
I mean LC had a problem with this, not mention it anywhere.
Venlig hilsen Jan Jensen
Bridged Zappulse 2.3SE
Hello, Jan Jensen
I playing about a couple of weeks now with the bridged zappulse 2.3SE and there is no changes in the sound.
When I build the zap 2.2 and the amplifier was ready, the sound was direct good.
This weekend I will take 1 zap out of the amplifier and listen again because the bridge zap is not a good zap, maybe I do something wrong, who knows.
Rudy
Hello, Jan Jensen
I playing about a couple of weeks now with the bridged zappulse 2.3SE and there is no changes in the sound.
When I build the zap 2.2 and the amplifier was ready, the sound was direct good.
This weekend I will take 1 zap out of the amplifier and listen again because the bridge zap is not a good zap, maybe I do something wrong, who knows.
Rudy
Hello, Duck
The only wish I have is that the Bridge Zap 2.3SE the same quality had as the Zap 2.2SE or even better.
Tomorrow I test a Zap 2.3SE with no bridging, than I heard if the Zap 2.3 sounds better with out bridging.
In a couple of weeks I will test my Bridge Zap 2.3SE to the UCD400 or UCD700 from Jan-Peter so the quality must than be good.
Greetings,
Rudy
The only wish I have is that the Bridge Zap 2.3SE the same quality had as the Zap 2.2SE or even better.
Tomorrow I test a Zap 2.3SE with no bridging, than I heard if the Zap 2.3 sounds better with out bridging.
In a couple of weeks I will test my Bridge Zap 2.3SE to the UCD400 or UCD700 from Jan-Peter so the quality must than be good.
Greetings,
Rudy
Attachments
Re: Bridge Zappulse 2.3SE
BMW,
I may be wrong, but I think the Zaps should be connected in series to the power supply. They are now parallelled, so you should remove the connection between the plus-power inputs (60+ <-> 60+) and that between the minus power inputs (60- <-> 60-) and leave the rest as it is.
Greetings, Joep
BMW850 said:
BMW,
I may be wrong, but I think the Zaps should be connected in series to the power supply. They are now parallelled, so you should remove the connection between the plus-power inputs (60+ <-> 60+) and that between the minus power inputs (60- <-> 60-) and leave the rest as it is.
Greetings, Joep
No, they should both be connected in parallel. However, if your diagram is exactly representative of the wiring scheme then I think I know what your problem is. You must connect each amp directly to the capacitor of the PSU. It looks as though you have one amp connected properly to the PSU then the other amp just hooks off that first amp.
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