throat 500cm ? mouth 5000cm ?
length 2.45metre 0.5T hyperbolic.mcbeans shows how it goes...
i stil reckon there shud be a stats page where all the main info is easily accessed,or perhaps its best that its hidden,so u must hear all the other useful information too
2.45metre straight horn LOL
perhaps just one bend
use autocad do fold it????
not easy.
length 2.45metre 0.5T hyperbolic.mcbeans shows how it goes...
i stil reckon there shud be a stats page where all the main info is easily accessed,or perhaps its best that its hidden,so u must hear all the other useful information too
2.45metre straight horn LOL
perhaps just one bend
use autocad do fold it????
not easy.
mikee12345 said:
Ok, a bit big, I'll give you that !
bostarob said:
Mastery of the table saw is not a problem! What I was thinking of is that if you were making an unfolded horn it would be easy to make jigs to get accurate consistent parts, as each part of the flair would be symmetrical. With more parts the same, the more value a jig is
when u say unfolded,do u mean axyxymmetrix?
or one straight side,and one bent side.
i reckon a lab would be easier,u just gota kno ppl with the tools.
but i cant fit one or move one that easily,and it costs a little bit much and id need the mouth extension.
why not make a 36hz horn instead of 27hz
save on length,and mouth.
leave ur sub 30hz stuff for inefficient tiny sealed boxes
straight horn-easy to design.
for at moment: jbl2226H :-D
or one straight side,and one bent side.
i reckon a lab would be easier,u just gota kno ppl with the tools.
but i cant fit one or move one that easily,and it costs a little bit much and id need the mouth extension.
why not make a 36hz horn instead of 27hz
save on length,and mouth.
leave ur sub 30hz stuff for inefficient tiny sealed boxes
straight horn-easy to design.
for at moment: jbl2226H :-D
""Mastery of the table saw is not a problem! What I was thinking of is that if you were making an unfolded horn it would be easy to make jigs to get accurate consistent parts, as each part of the flair would be symmetrical. With more parts the same, the more value a jig is""
Hey Al,
We generally work to 0.1mm at work - is that accurate enough?.
Even using a jigsaw and pencil line we can pretty much guarantee 0.2mm. I'm not worried about it's complexity - each panel can be made pretty accurately. In the past I've lasered jigs to give me 0.1 accuracy on routers. Shouldn't be a problem..
BTW- the resin you recommended me could easily fill any minor discrepancies....(and probably strengthen at the same time....)
Cheers,
Rob
Hey Al,
We generally work to 0.1mm at work - is that accurate enough?.
Even using a jigsaw and pencil line we can pretty much guarantee 0.2mm. I'm not worried about it's complexity - each panel can be made pretty accurately. In the past I've lasered jigs to give me 0.1 accuracy on routers. Shouldn't be a problem..
BTW- the resin you recommended me could easily fill any minor discrepancies....(and probably strengthen at the same time....)
Cheers,
Rob
Yep, they look pretty smart for £50 a piece Al.
I've still got time to decide on a sub solution for my room, but I'm liking the Labs for their sensitivity. - Means I have a big choice of amps to run them from..
Could run a pair of sealed push-push 12's (4 drivers) and Linkwitz transform that, but I'm not up on how much more distortion there would be against a pair of Labhorns.
I'll only be using the subs for movies, so maybe I could go ported box instead.
I've not got too much time free at the moment, but I'll start doing some serious reading in a week or two.
Cheers
Rob
I've still got time to decide on a sub solution for my room, but I'm liking the Labs for their sensitivity. - Means I have a big choice of amps to run them from..
Could run a pair of sealed push-push 12's (4 drivers) and Linkwitz transform that, but I'm not up on how much more distortion there would be against a pair of Labhorns.
I'll only be using the subs for movies, so maybe I could go ported box instead.
I've not got too much time free at the moment, but I'll start doing some serious reading in a week or two.
Cheers
Rob
bostarob:
the most important things were having a high moving mass,
smallrear box so it would fit..
and then the Qms must be like 13 or somthingm,,for whatever reason, i havent read the aes articles..they cost money!!
hehe
www.geocities.com/sc00byd0159/basshorn.html
Rob -horn sound is much more better than sealed box ----low harmonics.
4x12inchers wont match the lab at all + big amp
the most important things were having a high moving mass,
smallrear box so it would fit..
and then the Qms must be like 13 or somthingm,,for whatever reason, i havent read the aes articles..they cost money!!
hehe
www.geocities.com/sc00byd0159/basshorn.html
Rob -horn sound is much more better than sealed box ----low harmonics.
4x12inchers wont match the lab at all + big amp
Mikee,
Do you mean 4x 12"(sealed) won't beat one labhorn ?
I tend to do the costing on drivers alone as I get the wood very cheap (usually scavenge 'scrap' from work)
I'm happy to pay for the 4 drivers, so a pair of Labs could provide effortless clean bass (with some eq to make flat to the 20's)
It's definitely looking like my ideal solution...
Cheers
Rob
Do you mean 4x 12"(sealed) won't beat one labhorn ?
I tend to do the costing on drivers alone as I get the wood very cheap (usually scavenge 'scrap' from work)
I'm happy to pay for the 4 drivers, so a pair of Labs could provide effortless clean bass (with some eq to make flat to the 20's)
It's definitely looking like my ideal solution...
Cheers
Rob
brett-yeh i know,but 4x12 sealed is smaller box lol
rob- i need a basshorn im interested in how you go!
have u seen sheerins site, with his distortion graphs? (his own 27hz horn)
:-D some one quoted that making your first lab takes 30hrs,but only 15hrs for the 2nd
btw my 8inch speaker on pipe,has 2 airleaks! it puffs like a piece of paper held over a port! not quite as loud tho
i cud only hear it when i disconnected my mains,and heard it at a distance of 1meter
rob- i need a basshorn im interested in how you go!
have u seen sheerins site, with his distortion graphs? (his own 27hz horn)
:-D some one quoted that making your first lab takes 30hrs,but only 15hrs for the 2nd
btw my 8inch speaker on pipe,has 2 airleaks! it puffs like a piece of paper held over a port! not quite as loud tho
i cud only hear it when i disconnected my mains,and heard it at a distance of 1meter
I’m looking for a pair of active horns to go in a room about 6.5 * 5.2 * 3 m (21’ * 16’ * 9’). To deliver max 110 dB, firing from close into corners, over about 40 - 100 Hz. (Above will be JBL 106 dB midbass horns driven by a 2 watt 45 tube amp).
I’d like to decide it as a combination horn design/ drivers/ amp.
I just started looking and considering the LabHorn. But while excellent, it’s a little overkill in dB. But the shape is obviously very well matched to the custom drivers, so . .
Apart from the loss of 6 dB, what other changes (smoothness, balance?) might you get if you just used one (instead of the standard two) driver a side?
I imagine that 30-40 good watts (low distortion, high output impedance) should be enough for 110 dB? Even a Pass Aleph 30, for example (overkill on heat aside).
Would a Fitzmaurice Tuba 24 be as smooth? I’m sceptical because of the cheap drivers - MCM don’t even have any specs on their website!
Something else?
Richard
I’d like to decide it as a combination horn design/ drivers/ amp.
I just started looking and considering the LabHorn. But while excellent, it’s a little overkill in dB. But the shape is obviously very well matched to the custom drivers, so . .
Apart from the loss of 6 dB, what other changes (smoothness, balance?) might you get if you just used one (instead of the standard two) driver a side?
I imagine that 30-40 good watts (low distortion, high output impedance) should be enough for 110 dB? Even a Pass Aleph 30, for example (overkill on heat aside).
Would a Fitzmaurice Tuba 24 be as smooth? I’m sceptical because of the cheap drivers - MCM don’t even have any specs on their website!
Something else?
Richard
Rick there was a single driver design by Mike.e mentioned here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30466&highlight=
It also has a link to a design here:
http://www.geocities.com/loudspeakerguru/subindex_page4.html
Why not use 1 'normal' lab with a flare extension mono up to 80Hz ? (Same amount of drivers, less woodwork)
Cheers,
Rob.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30466&highlight=
It also has a link to a design here:
http://www.geocities.com/loudspeakerguru/subindex_page4.html
Why not use 1 'normal' lab with a flare extension mono up to 80Hz ? (Same amount of drivers, less woodwork)
Cheers,
Rob.
Hi Rick,
if you delete one driver you will need to extend the horn down to a new smaller throat. About an extra 700mm is needed.
This is unlikely to fit into the back box vacated by the missing driver so it would end up coming out the side access cover. A complete redesign of the folding is required.
You would also benefit from a bigger mouth to get up to the 1.5 that is needed for corner loading. That's another 400mm or so. The horn is now 1 full metre longer than the original and time delay is becoming even worse. However the SPL is now probably ideal for the domestic environment. Keep us informed whether it works or not.
Rob W,
your idea of equalising to get a response down to 20Hz may not work.
The labhorn is designed for a lowest response to about 27Hz using the optimum mouth loading and as bad as 35Hz when not optimised.
If you try to equalise to get an apparently flat response the power demands expected from a pair of 12inch drivers that are effectively no longer horn loaded will be enormous and you may (will) damage the drivers. Have you seen the warning on the Eminence site re blowing up labhorns driven below their cutoff frequency?
if you delete one driver you will need to extend the horn down to a new smaller throat. About an extra 700mm is needed.
This is unlikely to fit into the back box vacated by the missing driver so it would end up coming out the side access cover. A complete redesign of the folding is required.
You would also benefit from a bigger mouth to get up to the 1.5 that is needed for corner loading. That's another 400mm or so. The horn is now 1 full metre longer than the original and time delay is becoming even worse. However the SPL is now probably ideal for the domestic environment. Keep us informed whether it works or not.
Rob W,
your idea of equalising to get a response down to 20Hz may not work.
The labhorn is designed for a lowest response to about 27Hz using the optimum mouth loading and as bad as 35Hz when not optimised.
If you try to equalise to get an apparently flat response the power demands expected from a pair of 12inch drivers that are effectively no longer horn loaded will be enormous and you may (will) damage the drivers. Have you seen the warning on the Eminence site re blowing up labhorns driven below their cutoff frequency?
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