Just playing with my Charlize

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harrycaul

Member
Joined 2005
charlize rotary switch and volume pot

Thanks for the prompt replies.
Forgive me but things still aren't very clear. I'm new to wiring electronics of really any king. I could use some help clearing things up.

Volume pot:
the volume pot listed on yeo's site shows separate sets of pins for left and right channels but most pots that i've found only have 3 pins rather than the 6 shown on his site. Am I right to assume that I could solder the right and left channels together then. See this volume pot:

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/1378

Rotary switch:
I like the idea of a rotary switch to keep the faceplate of the amp symmetrical looking with 2 dials rather than a dial and a switch. Nuuk, I've looked at your site which has been helpful but I have no idea how where to make the connections on such a switch. If you could be of help or point me towards a diagram. Here's a rotary swich I was considering:

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/199

Thanks again.
 
MrDodo

MrDodo

Member
Joined 2005
harrycaul,
Your pot looks like a mono pot. You must use a stereo pot.
And normally the Audio Taper label says that it is appropriate for volume control. That said, I've used linear 100k pot with good effect.
For the rotary switch, just connect it in front of the pot so that it acts as a input selector, that's what you want to do, no? As it is a 4 pole, you can switch both hot and gnd to avoid ground loops. So with this switch you can use 3 source.
Another thing, use a good pot else you will probably one channel louder than the other, especially a low volume.
Linear pot tracks better.
 
Nuuk

Nuuk

Member
Joined 2003
decdun.me.uk
harrycaul, as Mr Dodo says, you need a stereo pot (unless you want mono output). Mono pot has three pins/tabs, stereo pot has six!

As regards the softstart switching, you need to identify the common connection for each set of three switching positions (easier than it sounds using a mulimeter).

Then you connect the positive 12 volt supply to that common pin. On the first position (tab) you connect nothing (that is the off position), on the second tab you connect the resistor, and the other end of that resistor to the power in on the amp. On the third tab you connect a wire going to the end of the resistor that is NOT attached to the switch.

Have a look at the DiyParadise site as Yeo has another circuit showing this perhaps more clearly than it is on DD. ;)
 
Pano

Pano

Administrator
Joined 2004
Paid Member
The soft start switch is great. I came up with it too, and it looks like I'm using exactly the same switch as NUUK!
Great minds think alike, eh? ;)

If you have one of the boards with a mute pin, you can use that instead. But the wiring is a little more complex.

Yeo's got some nice diagrams on the Charlize page. I need to put a link to the Charlize page and NUUK's page on my site. The info, the better! Good work guys.
 
H

harrycaul

Member
Joined 2005
led to indicate power

thanks nuuk and mr dodo. it's starting to be a little clearer. now another question. i'd like to have an led that indicates when the amp is turned on. what value/voltage do i need (12v?) and where does in go? would i solder it to the 12 v supply line coming off of the "on" line from the rotary switch?
 
G

Griz

Member
Joined 2005
Switching power supply

Hi,

Just thought to jump in.

I'm considering ordering a Charlize - but the smps thing has me a little confused.

I'd like to just order a suitable one, I'm in Germany so probably through someplace like Farnell.

The question that I have is how much current do I really need in order to drive one Charlize?

I'm considering something like this:

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/50623.pdf

or like this:

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/50624.pdf

Are these sort of in the right ballpark?

Regards,

Griz
 
Pano

Pano

Administrator
Joined 2004
Paid Member
LEDs

Be sure you connect that LED to the DC voltage, not AC!

If you are running around 13V with a blue LED, 600-1K ohms works well. Those blue suckers are sooo bright that a higher resistance will bring them down to a reasonalbe level. Works for me.

There are plenty of good LED calculators on the web. You just need to know your DC voltage, LED type (color) and how much current you want to draw. 20mA would be max. 10 mA would work just as well.
 
V

vt4c

Member
Joined 2001
My calculation are based on :-


Resistor for LED = (V supply - V drop across LED)/ I

Let -
V supply (voltage supply) = 13V
V drop across LED = 2V (typical)
I (current across LED) = 25mA (typical)


Resistor (ohms) = (13V - 2V) / 25mA
= 440 ohms

Taking the closest value available - 470 ohms

If the LED is taking less current, then a 560 ohms should surface. :)
 
G

Griz

Member
Joined 2005
panomaniac said:
Those should do the job.
If you have efficent 8 ohm speakers, the 12V 20 watt will probably be more than enough. But you would have more headroom with the 12V 40 watt. Number ACS40US12
Click to expand...


Nuuk said:


The ones that I use are rated at 6A and are more than adequate. :att'n:
Click to expand...

Thanks, guys.

I'm planning on using Fostex FE207E in the Project 5 MLTL, using Paul Joppa's line-level BSC circuit.

Sources are a Dual 704 turntable /GramAmp2 phonopre and a Marantz CD 6000 OSE.

I take it that I should use 10k log pot in between these - I'm not planning on using a pre-amp. It shouldn't be a problem using 2 x 10k log mono pots (for balance), should it?

Regards,

Griz
 
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