Just playing with my Charlize

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Hello All,

Hope you don't mind a new member jumping in to the conversation. I also have one of Yeo's Charlize amps assembled about a week now and am also experiencing the turn-on pop. I tried Yeo's mute switch fix but it made no difference. I asked Yeo about the pop and he said some systems exhibit the problem and others don't, he suggested wiring a switch to the speakers. Otherwise Charlize sounds very good, an authoritative bottom end, a warm yet still detailed midrange (how'd Yeo do that?), and a 3-Dimensional quality that sounds live are what stand out for me. Below are a couple pics of my Charlize.

Dave

http://tinyurl.com/buovu
http://tinyurl.com/dy7zn
 
Below are a couple pics of my Charlize.

She looks very lonely in that big space Gordon! But there is room for Monica as well! ;)

I hope the mute fonction because i will use them with high efficiency speakers who will not enjoy a plop

I know what you mean Dede, I don't even have a crossover between the Charlize and my Goodmans 201's! :dead: I may have to get out the Velleman speaker protection modules! :smash:
 
ashok1 said:


This time delay kit looks like a possibility. It appears that the output relay can be configured to turn on after a preset delay and stay on as long as power is applied. So, un-mute the Charlize after say 5 seconds after power is applied.

http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.44/it.A/id.386/.f

I'm not sure that it will help. What it need is a soft start that slowly increase the voltage. The mute have no effect on the voltage you send to the amp.... Am I wrong ??

It look like we are a few persons to need a soft start module, why not try to find someone from who we could buy a kit. I wonder if DIYPARADISE could be interested to providing us a kit ??

Anyone interested ?
 
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Joined 2005
is it the mute or the sleep function? which pin on the chip is the switch connected to? if you install a switch for the sleep/awake function you still hear a small pop when waking the amp up. although not as loud as having the amp awake and then turning the power supply on.
 
Seriously, I think placing a switch between speakers and output is a good solution.

Yes, and why not use a rotary switch? A four pole three postion would allow you to have position one as (both power and speakers) off, position 2 as power on/speakers off and then position 3 as both power and speakers on!

That way you could turn on power, wait a couple of seconds and then connect the speakers all with one switch! Of course you would have to short out positions two and three for the power switch! :att'n:
 
Hi all,
Please tried switching on the Charlize via a 240 - 280 ohms, 1/2W resistor connected on the positive supply line. bypass the resistor after that for normal listening. This will eliminate the 'start-up pop' issue.

I've tried this method on the Charlize that I'm having (with the air-core as well as with the ferrite core) and now I can only hear a slight 'click' when the 240 ohms resistor is bypass. :)
 
Nuuk & vt4c,

thanks for sharing you great idea :bulb:

I'll try vt4c solution as it's the simplest one to implement. I already have a on/off switch installed for the mute. I will remove the mute wiring and replace it with the bypass wiring.

By the way, next week I'll bring my Woodini (it' the name of my implemantation of Charlize :D ) to a friend home. He has some big Magna Planar speakers that he power with a Audio Research tubes amp. We want to see if Woodini will be able to deliver some magical music with these beasts. We won’t push Woodini to hard.

Thanks again !
 
I tried the resistor trick but used two, and a two pole 6-way rotary switch.

Position 1 +off
Position 2 & 3 = 300R resistor
Position 4 & 5 = 180R resistor
Position 6 = straight wire.

This still gives a very small click when the switch is turned to fully on so there's not much point in using the second resistor! :att'n:
 
Nuuk said:
I tried the resistor trick but used two, and a two pole 6-way rotary switch.

Position 1 +off
Position 2 & 3 = 300R resistor
Position 4 & 5 = 180R resistor
Position 6 = straight wire.

This still gives a very small click when the switch is turned to fully on so there's not much point in using the second resistor! :att'n:

I have tried one 270 ohm resistor with a bypass switch as proposed by vt4c and it worked very well :att'n:

The mod was done on my Autocostruire prototype as it was faster to do. Now, I'll open Woodini and replace the mute configuration by the resistor/bypass switch configuration.

It is too late for Woodini (I like the look with two knob anyway). but for my next project, I'll use a rotary switch. It is a little bit more user friendly :D

Thanks a lot Nuuk and vt4c :up:

Now that you posted these solutions to the POP problem, many of us will use it and live happy with their Charlize :hphones:
 
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